powermad5000

Not all die clashes are spectacular as in transferring the complete image to the other side of the coin. Typically, most die clashes are partial only and some very minor as in the case with your coin. Full, complete, highly pronounced die clashes are sought after by error collectors and get premium dollars at the point of sale. As a side note, I would not submit this coin to a TPG, as it will be considered as "too minor", and you will be at a loss on all those grading fees.

Being there is weakness in the rim and T in CENT on the reverse side in the same area where the cud is on the obverse, I would say it is a legitimate mint error for a die break. Being more metal flowed into the broken spot on the die to form the cud, resulted in the weaker detail in that area on the reverse. The larger and more dramatic the cud, the more an error collector would be willing to pay for it. Also being that the 1973 D cent is common with a mintage of 3,549,576,588, and yours seems to be lightly circulated and has lost its red color for brown, I would not see it getting premium dollars at the sale point. It would be impossible to tell how many more were produced by the broken die before it was discovered and removed from service, but typically there will be other cents out there with the same or very similar cud as yours. It would probably see its best sale price on eBay at auction with a guess it would go for between $10 and $20. I am in agreement that the 1948 Wheat Cent was clamped in something (not sure what) as nothing in the mint process would make the rim on the obverse look "beaded" like that. It is also heavily environmentally damaged and worth one cent. And yes, PLEASE crop your photos before posting them with your question. I had to take photos of your photos and zoom in on them to see what was needed to see.

It would return from a TPG with a tag of AG Details - Rim Damage. It would be worth spot price for an ounce of silver.

I would say this is a badly environmentally damaged dime.

Here is an example of a Morgan I own with heavy toning. It is not dirty. Silver depending on how it is stored or not protected will develop dark toning over time.

This is a very good point!!! The curvature if made by the blanking press should be the same radius as an Ike dollar. And the second dollar should fit into the clip like a key into a keyhole, but the reeded edge may prohibit actually inserting the second Ike into the clip so yes, putting it on top should suffice to see if the radius is equal.

The tool you pictured, Eagle, is what electricians in the field call a stud punch. We use it to punch out steel studs to put electrical pipes through the insides of walls. It is not made to cut through metal thicker than 1/16" thick. It will not punch out metal boxes or metal stock that is 1/8" thick or thicker. In alignment with J P M, they cannot punch a part of metal off without bending the metal. The tool I was referencing I have I pic of below. This is a hydraulic tool that can punch a moon shape piece of metal from thick metal boxes and thick metal stock. Keep in mind though that this tool will ALWAYS produce an edge next to the punched out metal that is "rolled" or "lipped". I would like to see the OP maybe send this coin to ANACS which would be a little less pricey than NGC or PCGS and see what the determination is.

Cropping the original image typically brings the file size down to 1.5MB - 3MB. We also desire to have clear, cropped images of both sides of a coin and possibly a close up (not over magnified) of any questionable areas to be able to try to help answer your question.

In the field we use a hydraulic hand pump version typically made by Greenlee tools. They also make hand thread versions for use in tight spaces and take a lot of elbow grease to make the punch. Milwaukee also makes a battery operated version which is now becoming very popular. They are able to cut through metal up to 1/4" thick and could easily cut through a coin. I have made side cuts with a 1" punch on a 3/4" hole to enlarge the hole to 1" and will punch out a moon shaped portion of the metal if aligned properly. They could easily clip a portion of a coin. Outside of our discussion of metal punches, there still has to be reasonable explanation of the weaker details and rim of the coin presented if the coin were to be a vice job with a punch tool and doctoring of the cut. One area that does disturb me is the R in LIBERTY on the obverse. E, T, and Y are all weak at the top, but the R is fully struck and I would think that the top of the R would also be weak. The other thing concerning the filing of the clip is that the clad layer is thin and if you were to take a file to it, you would remove the copper-nickel layer and expose all the copper underneath, not more copper-nickel silver clad. I don't know for sure. I may just have to keep the option open that it was a legitimate clip error but has post mint damage as well.

Sans better pictures, it would not be made of gold and if it did have a "gold" color it would be a mint error for missing the copper-nickel clad layer which would expose the copper underneath explaining the "gold" color. An example of this is shown in the picture below which is currently being sold on eBay. Coins of this type of error can sell for anywhere between $150-$600.

The pictures are quite fuzzy and the New Mexico quarter is on a terrible angle to use as a comparison to a "normal" quarter. I think much better, clearer, and cropped photos are needed to give you an assessment of your coin in question.

In NGC VarietyPlus, there are six varieties listed for a 1957 D Lincoln Wheat Cent. After checking out all the photos given by NGC, I would say yours matches VP-002. CONECA : RPM-005. A repunched mintmark is not an error, but rather a variety. Your coin is not particularly rare and the repunched mintmark would only be worth a few more dollars to a variety collector. I agree with Sandon on the MS 64 RD grade for your coin due to the numerous marks on it. Due to the extremely high mintage number of this year produced by the Denver mint, 1,051,342,000, in the grade it is in would only be worth about $10. It might get $12-15 to a variety collector. Not many D/D were graded by NGC for this year, probably due to the high mintage number, second to last year of the series with many high quality specimens saved by numerous collectors, and relative low value versus value after grading and slabbing. You definitely need to learn more about the hobby if you don't know what obv or rev stands for, and absolutely should not be considering sending coins in for grading until you have learned more about coins, collecting, and informational resources available to you. A single submission of this coin would cost you around $125 (including your base membership fee, grading fee, VarietyPlus fee, and shipping costs to and from) for a coin valued between $10-15. The photo below is of NGC VP-002 from the NGC VarietyPlus page which I believe most closely resembles the conditions on your coin.

Also a vice job would not explain the weaknesses of the lettering and rim on an otherwise uncirculated coin as described by the others and the article referencing the Blakesley effect, and would require those areas to be ground down which imho would be plainly evident with grooves from a cutting wheel, grinding wheel, or heavy leaning on a polishing tool.

As an electrician, I have used many punches to put holes in panels and pull box installs, but the one characteristic of any of those punch tools is they cannot produce a perfect edge post cut. A little bit of metal is always "rolled" or "pushed out" at the edge of the punch making its own small raised "lip". Even a new set of knockouts produce this lip which we quickly file off when the punches are new, but as the knockouts wear out, the lip gets worse and takes more filing as the worn knockout is literally pushing its way through the metal instead of cutting it. That is not apparent on this coin.

I could only assume it is not silver and it seems to be plated the way the reverse has a mirror like finish, but the obverse either wasn't plated, or just not as heavily. Another thing when buying coins is a different finish or color or overall appearance on one side of the coin VS the other. This can help tell if a coin has been cleaned on one side but in this case, it would indicate an altered surface and a hint to look at details further in the case of a counterfeit. I am sure its weight is off also.

Current price guide shows $42 for MS 65, and I agree with the contact marks visible in the photo, which would tell me I would probably find more with the coin in hand, maybe only getting it a MS 64 grade. I would not chance it for the money spent to submit it.

Being there is also lack of detail in the hand holding that stick, and partial weakness in the lower half of QUARTER DOLLAR, the drum is missing one of the center spines (although that could be from a hit), and there is some weakness in the S of E PLURIBUS UNUM, but the rest of the coin seems to be fully struck, a strike through grease makes sense. A coin would not wear in that kind of manner.

Thanks for the article Eagle! I wonder how the metallurgy of the coin also affects the details after the coin is struck, and that is not covered by the article. What I am getting at is are the weak details around the clip going to be the same on copper VS silver VS nickel (harder VS softer metals)....I do see how the copper-nickel clad is showing on the edge view (although that could be just silver paint), and the coin is uncirculated which is most likely in the case of a clipped coin (especially one like this with such a large clip). This coin does show most of the attributes covered in the article on genuine clip errors. I am leaning towards this being a true mint error for a curved clip.

Being I am not a fan of social media, is that how these YouTubers get paid if you subscribe to their channel? I honestly don't know how people get paid by posting videos although I have heard that they do.

I was smart enough to not click on the link and feed into his click bait. Since I am not into social media on the whole, I don't know if this individual gets money for clicks on his link, and if so please stop feeding the kitty as from what I am reading here it's pretty bad. I don't trust random links anyway and never click on them in this age of hacking.

I'll raise my hand and second the vote.

A very badly damaged dime. Let it keep circulating. It's not even worth keeping.

Hello and welcome to the forum! I will tell you that I collected coins for about 40 years before I ever made my first submission to have about a dozen coins graded. I had spent the time, however, learning about the hobby. I already had a grip on mintage numbers, self grading, rarity, varieties, and mint errors. My first submission was mixed. Some of what returned was surprisingly good, and some surprisingly bad. I took away from that a learning experience which is still continuing. And I realized just how little I knew after collecting coins for so long. A lot of those coins I originally collected over all those years got sold. I did have some high quality specimens in my collection without realizing just how good they were, however. Those coins I had gotten that I bought because they "looked really nice" actually were. The point I am trying to make is that I began submitting because they were my coins and it was my collection and I wanted to expand both the collection and the knowledge. Back then it was a little cheaper than it is now to submit. Depending on the value of the coins you want to send, it can get crazy expensive now to submit. For 30 coins of rough value of $300 or less, it will cost you about $1000 in total to get those 30 slabs back. As someone who sends all of their coins in, it has changed the way I collect. Keeping key dates or scant mintage numbers out of the equation, I no longer collect anything in AU. My selection process is extremely strict and I shoot for MS 64 and up regardless of the series minted. The grading costs have just become too prohibitive to submit lesser value coins in, and as an independent collector-just-a-little-guy, I am not going to get some kind of break on bulk submissions. That said, I submit for two reasons : Protection of the coin, and to establish a "base value" of my collection. I use the term base value as grading is subjective, and not a perfect science. Even a coin in a holder can cause a discussion on these forums and with multiple opinions. I try not to look at the tag in the holder as "the law", but as a good indication of the quality of the coin inside. I have sold off some of my submissions that didn't return as expected and watched some I sold at auction go way above price guide values during bidding wars, and I have sold outright some coins that were impaired that I thought would never sell, get snatched up immediately. When it comes to selling, you never know who wants a certain coin for what reason. What I have noticed is the graded coins I have sold, sell about ten times faster than the raw coins I have sold. Back to the base value, it just means that the tag in the holder means when it comes time for me to sell the coin, I am not going to let someone give me AU value for an MS 64. Since you already sent some of your coins out, I am hoping you will not get discouraged with the results, but treat it as a learning experience. Good luck on your submission and come back to tell us how it returned. We would like to hear a submission success story!

There were a handful of 1944 Wheat Cents that were punched on leftover 1943 steel planchets but there definitely were not many. I don't see how a steel planchet could still be leftover by 1945. And as stated by Greenstang, the weight would be 2.7g IF in the winning both the Powerball and Mega Millions in the same week type of luck that there was ONE planchet still leftover and a Mint employee put it into the dies. It is probably plated with nickel and that both adds to the weight, and also allows it to be magnetic. If you really don't wish to believe that the coin isn't plated, you can spend $50-$200 for a submission membership, $30-$50 for shipping costs to the grader, $25 for a tier grading fee, $15 for a mint error substantiation fee, and $20-$30 for return shipping, to get back a 2.5x2.5 flip with a tag in it that says NOT ENCAPSULATED, PLATED.

Lincoln Wheat cents were not plated or clad, so the OP's request about that topic in regards to the original coin in the post is even more confusing.