powermad5000

I believe that is the pointed 9 variety, but I am not sure if that would even tickle the fancy of a Roosy collector even if it were in MS. Once it was discovered that it was quite common, it lost desirability and might now only be requested on a TPG label by a hardcore Roosy collector putting together a type set or registry set. On the other note in this thread, the time you are spending on your project simply cannot be measured. I guarantee you will look back on it some day with cherished memories.

Definitely post mint damage. It almost looks to me like someone put it in a lathe the way the reverse has those grooves in it. Does the outer rim have marks on it possibly where it was gripped by the fingers of a lathe? In either case, it was not created this way by the mint, and has no value to a Lincoln Wheat collector.

I guess what I was trying to say in my earlier post and didn't convey the message properly, is that hairlines are not necessarily just an indication of a coin having been cleaned, but could also be caused by improper handling of a coin with dirty fingers rubbing on the surface. This secondary condition would be better described as "damage" hairlines from improper handling. If the graders determined the hairlines on this Morgan were not from cleaning, but improper handling, then that could be why they straight graded it. I know NGC will give a details grade for scratches, but I think that is given for actual gouges, and not just hairlines from bad handling practices.

I don't see gunk inside the P of Pluribus, or the inside the two 8's, and the hardest spot to try to get it out from if it was cleaned would be the insides of the CC's. I didn't see it in those spots when I first looked at it and I didn't see it in the closeups. Besides, not everybody's hands are clean when they touch coins. What if someone with dirty hands was rubbing the coin between his fingers out of boredom one random day to put all those hairlines in it? I am going to hold to my position that the coin was not cleaned.

Either that or set in some type of clasp as in to make jewelry (a necklace for example).

Not an error. If anything, there would have to be a substantial amount of them minted with the same line through the 7 for it to be attributed as a variety. Variety, not error.

The color looks normal to me as does the wear for a circulated Morgan. I am not sure if what you are considering as hairlines in the fields is nothing more than bag contact marks as would be found on a coin in a bag that happened to be moved and handled a lot more than other bags. I do have some low end MS specimens in my slabbed Morgans that have a lot of marks in fields which I would think are from overhandling of the bag they were in.

I did own at one time an 1808 8 Reales that was chopmarked as it must have traveled to the Orient.

Based upon the denticles, and more blaringly the size of the wording on the reverse versus the size of the letters on a legit coin is telling me it is fake. Regardless of the size of the mintmark, the lettering on the dies was all the same regardless of which mint struck the coin. It also has an unnatural "sheen" to it.

We need clear, cropped photos of both the obverse and reverse in order to give you the best possible advice. That said, the only coin you have there that could be worth anything is the Proof Ike. The 1964 Kennedy half is too common, and the Walkers would need to be in fantastic shape just to get a moderate price of $30-$40. The Kennedy looks lightly circulated (AU) and the Walkers are in very bad shape (VG and details grades for both). The ONLY way the Proof Ike is worth anything is if you took a big chance on submitting it in the original holder it is currently in and having it graded and returning back as a PF 69 UC (NGC has graded zero of these in this year at PF 70 UC). Then it would be worth a price guide value of $80 with a realistic value of around $60-$65. The problem is it will cost you more to submit it hoping to get that grade than you would get back for selling it graded. I am guessing the dealer is willing to shoot you a price for all of the coins just to get the Ike and may be able to make it a part of a submission on his end so he can have it graded (cheaper than you could) and put it in his case with a good markup when it returns.

With all the YouTube coin experts out there nowadays, I'll take the over The OP's coin is suffering from some mild environmental damage. I am thinking the plating was bubbled after the coin was struck and before the environment got to the reverse. For the OP, there are still tons of these cents in circulation from 1983 on which you will see various levels of the plating over zinc which has bubbled up, cracked, pock marked, pocketed, or in some extreme cases has partially fallen off. None of these conditions meet the criteria for a mint error. As for finding errors in change, I have in my 45+ years of collecting have found no circulating error coins in pocket change coins pre 2000. I have found three post 2000 struck through errors (of course submitted by me and certified as errors by NGC). That said, however, I know the difference between physical damage and an actual struck through coin. Three may sound like a lot but they are not common to find in cash register change (I welcome coins in change and I inspect both sides of every coin that passes through my hands before they get thrown back into the wild). What always astounds me is the number of sellers and the ridiculous quantity of supposed "error" coins for sale on eBay that simply are just NOT errors at all, and are being sold by sellers who either have simply no knowledge whatsoever of numismatics even in the most general sense, or who are sellers who have decided to take extreme full advantage of new collectors trying to enter the hobby with their limited knowledge and will simply get robbed blind by these unscrupulous sellers.

Maybe if I smoke a whole bunch of "funny stuff" I would see a "digital coin". I see a corrosion spot that has caused the plating to start to bubble up and nothing more.

I am not so sure about a lamination error on the reverse seeing there is varying levels of environmental damage, I would lean more towards post mint damage to the reverse. As for the 7, IF that were to be created by a die gouge, it still would not be classified as a mint error but would rather have to be attributed as a variety by a numismatic expert panel with other samples of the same attribution also known to collectors.

Welcome to the forum! Clear, cropped photos could possibly help in the investigation of your claim. Are you supposing that it is magnetic, or have you put a strong magnet to it and coin sticks to the magnet? Also for this case, the weight of the coin in grams to two decimal places would also be helpful. 1975 D Lincoln Memorial Reverse cents were made of brass with a weight of 3.11 grams +/- .02 grams of mint tolerance. Hopefully you have some way to weigh the coin.

To be specific, the dies were made using the single squeeze method. You presented good photos to check out the coin, but I am leaning towards mechanical doubling as I can't find any evidence on the rest of the coin to tell me otherwise. Due to the high speeds of modern coin presses, there are a lot of instances of mechanical doubling and it is well within mint tolerances. Unless someone else sees something I don't, MD is my consensus.

Very nice @J P M!!!!! And you got that at a great price being the slab it is in costs more than you paid for the whole thing!

Those are my occasional self grading errors. Which have become very few and far between. If there is one thing, I will never claim to be perfect in this hobby.

@VKurtB Amen brother! I do exactly the same thing (although I have made some self grading errors). Since I started out so young in this hobby, there were no slabs, and I bought raw coins like everyone else. It has not changed for me over all these years. I still buy 99% of my coins raw and submit them. I will purchase a slabbed coin when I do find one that is for sale severely underpriced by the seller (for whatever reason), but I enjoy the process of inspecting and self grading raw coins and finding something good that maybe the seller has either decided to let it go for the first offer, or just sells coins in whatever way they do. One story I have from Central States about five years ago, I stopped at a table with a seller from Iowa. As I am still trying to put together a set of Franklin Halves in minimum MS 64 FBL, I started taking a look at his inventory. He noticed right away that I wasn't even looking at the obverse first, but rather I was flipping the coins over to check for FBL. He asked, "Are you looking for only ones with full bell lines?" When I said yes, he replied "I don't care about that. I just price them as I see them." My brain made a ringing bell sound like I won on the Price is Right and I told him I would be spending a lot of time in my chair! I bought about a dozen and they all graded out good except for one. Finding quality raw coins brings me joy!

Right off the bat the word LIBERTY is missing on the obverse. There is no need to do an in depth analysis of this coin as it is not genuine.

The "teeth" are from a die clash but they are not an error, merely a variety. I am guessing the PREMIER label was either a promo for something or a specialty paid label (like an NGC slot machine casino label say). You need to use computer price guides as they show intermediate grades as well as +, *, and PL grades. Any book does not have the room in it to list every grade or the book would end up being the size of half of the Library of Congress. MS 64 is a common grade for the entire Franklin Half Dollar series (FBL is harder to get). Franklin halves don't really start to increase in value until you get to MS 65 and higher.

I am actually glad you came here to ask this question as you have no error coins and I would hate to see you literally BURN your cash on coins worth about 0.25-0.30 cents. Let's do a little math check here to give you an idea. Your coins are worth about thirty cents. For twenty pennies at the modern grade, 20 X $19 = $380. For thinking they are mint errors and submitting them as such, 20 X $18 Mint Error Fee = $360. (Charged whether or not the coin is actually an error or not) For a new member to be able to submit, you have too many coins for a basic so $150 for a membership. Shipping fees to and from and accounting fees, eh, roughly, $85. $380+$360+$150+$85=$975. You are saving $974.70 by NOT sending these coins in. I don't know who informed you that you have errors in these coins but you need to not buy from or listen to their advice.

I did see one dealer review as well and apparently they had a "low buck" section upstairs which I was unaware of. Every prior year the reason I did not go upstairs was because it was all Heritage auctions stuff and big money coins (I'm not a fan of 20% buyers premiums and I also go to the show to buy raw coins). Perhaps I missed a lot of inventory upstairs as well. But I agree @VKurtB. I noticed all of the PNG stuff going on and that wasn't like that in years past either.

I think it is a combination of @Just Bob's point and @JT2's point. Not only over polished to get the absolute most out of the die, but also so overused that the finer details of the die in such a late stage were turning to mush. The OP's original pic of the reverse is blurry, but it also looks like the steps of the memorial suffered the same. Even Lincoln on the obverse does not look very "sharp" (Lincoln at the time was a very sharp dressed man), leaning me towards overused dies. Also, being Lincoln inside the pillars is very small in the overall image, I have seen many Memorial Cents with varying degrees of the "strength" of Lincoln between the pillars.

Nice coin! A dealer will definitely screw you overall on the price. Just the nature of the business. You would be better off selling this through one of the larger auction houses like Heritage or Stacks. As far as price, only a variety collector is going to get into a crazy bidding war over the variety, so the price could vary a lot depending if the "right" buyer is present for the auction or not or how far they want to drive the price up. Once again, it is just a part of the business. There is no way to be able to tell you exactly how much you will get for it. As I try to tell people, a coin is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it.

Hello and welcome to the forum! As an advisement, there was a lot of NGC reps here in the US at the Central States coin show from April 26-April 30. This does not mean NGC is closed down for that time period, but it does mean a significant amount of representatives were at the coin show and not in Sarasota so I can only assume that will be a further delay in the processing of your shipment. I submitted 38 coins at the show and just got an email today that they have been accepted (not heading to the graders yet, just accepted). I can only also assume that coins coming from the UK will take some time to arrive there and due to the volume of coins submitted at the show, could cause further delay in NGC getting around to accepting your submission. I do know from experience that NGC does maintain the "pecking order" as they process submissions in the order they are received as I once had my coins sitting in their vault for about one month before they were accepted because NGC was very busy at the time with several bulk submissions. The key word here is patience.