powermad5000

Hello! I submitted 38 coins total at the CSNS show with my submissions all needing different things. I received notice that 34 coins were being shipped back and I noticed the NCS submission was not being shipped back with the rest of the coins even though the paperwork was to have all the submissions shipped back together. My question is do NCS submissions generally get shipped back separate?

To answer your question regarding the weight, the weight of the cent is in the planchet, not in the plating. I don't know exactly how much the thin layer of plating weighs, but I could only venture a guess that it is in the hundredths of a gram and not enough to be noticed on an accurate weighing. One would just think that the weight still ends up being in mint tolerance.

There are a couple terms used in this forum that I have noted the spellings of. Shinny - Correct is shiny Vice job - Correct is vise job

Depends on how high of a grade to go along with the FBL is (I am trying for all MS 64 FBL as once you step up to 65 or 66 the prices tend to get quite high very quickly), and also depends on how you are acquiring the coins. I will state one example of one in my set. I bought a raw 1959 Franklin from a coin show for $12. I had it slabbed. It returned as MS 65 FBL. I am basically building the set from all raw coins and have acquired most of them very cheaply.

I have a Premium membership and the membership basically pays for itself when you submit because NGC basically gives you a credit for grading which is near the cost of the membership.

The Sacagawea series were not gold. They were made from a Manganese-Brass alloy. That aside, it does appear that you have a Speared Eagle variety. Judging from what I can make out in the photo focusing on the reverse, I note many of the eagles breast feathers are worn but overall looking at both sides of the coin, I would venture to give it a grade of AU 58. I put it at $125-$150 in marketplace value.

The no date penny thing has me scratching my head too other than the case of a brockage where the date is unreadable or an off center strike in the 50% off center range where the date is missing.

As I am building a full set of Franklin Halves in minimum MS 64 FBL (from almost all raw purchases and nearing 80% there), from all the submissions I have made, the top three lines absolutely must be fully separated (even if they are weak from say a weak strike or the very slightest of wear as long as they are separated). The top two lines at the bottom have to be full and separate. It is the actual bottom of the bell that I have had some submissions where the absolute bottom is "ragged" but still separated from the two lines above it, and I have gotten the FBL designation. I do know any ding or hit that causes a disturbance in any of the lines (basically spanning across any two lines) almost certainly will disqualify the FBL designation. I do agree that the S Franklins are the hardest to get FBL on.

Not sure it was either because I don't think we know what design he had in mind, but I agree the concept is there. To this day @RWB, I question why the Treasury continues to make the $2 bill. Most cashiers are grudging to accept them (they have to as legal tender) but way back in the late 80's when I ran a cash register and had to balance my drawer, there was no column for listing how many $2 bills were in the till. And I had to list it on the side and in general it made acceptance of the balance sheet take longer with the manager. I am sure they had a purpose long ago, but in current times, I just don't see any practical use for the $2 bills. And no, I am not a hater of them....LOL! The scrap yard near here pays out all odd cash in $2 bills and they always give brand new crisp ones, so I just continue to keep them.

The problem with the site is that not all the coins for sale on it contain the word COPY, just like the three I put in my post.

So, I had to go to this Temu site to check it out. More gag and barf bag this time. I am surprised some of this junk hasn't come across this forum yet. If you are a newbie, be aware this garbage is out there. The entire site was full of this nonsense. Newbies, be aware before you spend money on a coin!

So I could have posted this in the counterfeit coins forum, but I decided it would be good to expose the newbies to it as, well, frankly, it made me gag and puke. And so newbies can be aware there is A LOT of for sale on the internet. So last night, as I was getting ready to shut my computer down, I noticed this in my feed. Understandable. With all the internet trackers and I look at coins all the time, I get that. But I did a double take in about half a second when I saw the coin in the ad. So I took a pic and blew it up. Gag. Puke. Couldn't be more fake, or just a "hobo" version but not with the staff Liberty is holding. Hobo coins usually just ground off metal to make the design. They didn't add a pole that wasn't there.

@txboaz55, you're welcome! I agree with what @Sandon stated, but also want to add that cents of this time period (roughly 1982-1995) had some weak strikes towards the end of the life of the dies as the Mint overused many of the dies they made during this time period. I would also add that if you are seeing any type of doubling, it would be die deterioration doubling (aka mechanical doubling) which would make sense with what I am seeing on your coin. An already loose obverse die and judging by the steps, columns, and roof of the memorial on the reverse an already overused reverse die leaving the details on the reverse not very crisp at all and the details kind of "muddy".

When it asks to paste as plain text instead, I just hover over the X and when the bar pops up that says "Keep formatting", I click the X and it usually works.

Hello and welcome to the forum! To open, I am not sure who wrote the price on the cardboard flip for this coin but I think that is way off. There is one 15 star variety for this year and there is about 16 different 13 star varieties. The value of the 15 star variety is very much higher than the 13 star variety (3 to 5 times as much and exponentially in the higher grades). I don't think a 13 star variety designation will help with the value of this coin. I would say it was cleaned in the past (it may just be the lighting of the photo) but also has a level of environmental damage which would guarantee it receives a details grade. IMHO I would give this coin an F details grade. The current price guide value for an F grade 1817 Coronet Head Large Cent is $55 and with the details grade would drop the value into the VG or G range (basically $25-$40) Certification of this coin would most likely only be for a genuine guarantee or a variety designation but I would not submit this coin as its value is not worth the costs of submitting.

Hello and welcome to the forum! I think what you may be seeing is a flattening of the last 8 making it appear wider than normal, and it may just be me but there may be a small die chip at the top of the last 8 but that would not get this coin attributed the 1888/7 variety. I also do not see the necessary markers for that attribution.

Hello and welcome to the forum! I am in the VF camp as far as the details on this coin. It appears to be genuine but attribution might be to solidify that as fact. I note some hits on the reverse, but of more concern to me is it might just be the photo (hard to tell without the coin in hand) if there is some rim damage, and I also would not rule out that the coin has been cleaned in the past and has retoned some. I would expect a details grade which will impact the overall value and drop it to somewhere in the F to VG range ($250-300). I also agree that this coin should be part of a larger submission as to not incur excessive costs compared to having it graded as a singular submission.

@WayneT9639, I just thought of something in the case of this coin. You stated you submitted under both Mint Error AND VarietyPlus. I was thinking about this, and I wonder if that possibly caused some confusion over at NGC (I personally have never submitted a coin with both of those boxes checked) for the graders. I am wondering if you had submitted this only as a Mint Error if it would have been attributed. There is no fee for the 1970 S either small date or large date attribution which means when NGC gets one, they will automatically assign the proper variety (small or large date). I have submitted when there is no fee without checking that box and the label has come back correct. Just a thought.

I pass a coin shop in downtown Chicago on my way every year to my annual physical so I always stop in. This year, there was a Dad and two daughters. The girls had to be about 7 and 9. The Dad knew nothing about coins and admitted it. The two girls however were asking about specific coins and specific grades. They were interested in late 30's Walkers and Washingtons. It was heartwarming to see and hear and reminded me of myself at that age taking my newspaper route money on my bike right to the coin shop in town and buying coins with it. I had to comment to the Dad that I started at their age as well and that they are into a good hobby. [And then I proceeded to buy myself an upgrade Morgan....LOL!] There is still hope @Jason Abshier. It is unclear exactly when collecting began but there are collections documented from the late 1800's that have been sold. And there is interest in the hobby to this day.

I bought a Liberty Seated half dollar from the S.S. Republic Shipwreck. It is uncirculated but is simply labelled Shipwreck Effect. There is no grade offering on the label. I paid higher than price guide value basically for the provenance of the shipwreck, but also because the coin in the holder I bought was substantially less impaired than others being sold at the same time. The coin in the holder is uncirculated and has very minimal saltwater damage and the rest of the details are fantastic. If the coin was not ocean submerged it most likely would have graded as MS 65 (based solely on wear - it would be impossible to determine any distracting marks after the saltwater damage). There were other S.S. Republic coins up for sale at the same time I bought mine and the prices varied due to different levels of the ocean water damage to the surface of the coin as well as to the overall details of the coin. Not all the coins in the shipwreck were uncirculated. Some might buy the coin based solely on the shipwreck provenance, but it seemed to me that there was a wide range of prices due to the quality of the coin in the holder and how much damage it actually had.

I wouldn't worry about that. Threads just kind of trail off once the issue raised in the beginning gets resolved. I would leave the thread for others to read in the future.

I have always submitted in these flips (and stored some coins in certain cases). The photo is from Amazon. There are many other sellers of these on eBay (Wizardcoinsupply probably has the lowest prices) and you can find them also at some Hobby Lobby locations as well as local coin shows.

Hello and welcome to the forum! If I am not mistaken, NGC will grade the individual coins in a proof set and attach a special label numbered 1-5 (or 1-6 in those sets) and it will list the individual grade of each coin in the set. I do believe though they are still going to charge you the fees as if each coin was submitted in an individual flip, meaning you are not going to get any price break or reduction for submitting them in the OGP. That being the case, if you were really set on sending the whole proof set to get graded, I would not crack it out of the OGP, but I would submit it as is. That will reduce on the possible mishandling (or any handling at all of individual coins) or possible damage to any of the coins by removing them from the proof set case. I am not sure how to do that from a submission standpoint as I have only ever submitted raw singular coins so you would want to call NGC beforehand to ask how you fill out the paperwork properly. That said, I do agree with @World Colonial. In order for it to be worth the fees, you would have to be confident that the grades returning (imho) would have to be a minimum of PF 69 or PF 69 Cameo or Ultra Cameo (imho PF 68 would not be high enough as there were proof sets a plenty made). There were 3,041,506 proof sets issued in 1968. Of all those saved proof sets, you are going to have to achieve a very high grade for the coins to have value in the marketplace (imho PF 68 would be a common grade). Also be aware that just because they are sitting in a proof set case and were specifically and specially placed in the OGP, that does not mean they are perfect coins. Just in the process of making that many proof sets, only those of the beginning of the run when the dies were fresh will have the best strikes and finish, as well as there being the possibility of the mint employee mishandling a coin before it got put into the OGP.

I came on here with 40+ years in the hobby. I started asking questions. It became apparent very quickly how much some of the members on here know and how little I actually did know. I am sure those on here could have easily labelled me as "stupid", but they did not. As it goes, that term really doesn't apply here. I would say in this hobby it is more "uninformed" as it is important to ask those questions to advance your knowledge. I myself have never been afraid to ask anything of anyone, because to me it is the only way to learn something you do not know. And this forum is the place to come to learn the true facts. The volunteers on here truly want to help advance the hobby.

It is not possible for a broadstrike to affect only one side of the coin. Your coin is fully broadstruck just well centered as @EarlyUS.com noted. Other than the partial staining on the obverse and some small spots of possible environmental damage on the reverse, the details of the coin are excellent for a broadstrike.