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Everything posted by powermad5000

  1. Thank you for the response. I know now that the previous submitter probably also found this out. I can now officially add this piece to my collection. Thank you!
  2. Minus the metallurgy, it is a 1991 Lincoln (mintage 5,165,940,000) with considerable wear and on top of that, has been in some type of poor environment. I would not use Acetone. I would not use anything. It is a coin that has had a rough, bad life, and should spend the rest of its time in circulation.
  3. Hello Kelly! Yes, please keep us posted on this. If anything out of curiosity's sake. What I did immediately note in your side by side photo of the normal Kennedy half and the "error' is the visible thickness difference between the two. Not sure of bezel or encasement as the reeded edge is still intact and generally is trashed upon removal. It does seem the planchet is undersized and I have heard of some very crazy planchet errors so I hope you have one here. I feel your pain on the scale portion. Three cheap scales and they all broke. I have to break down myself and shell out for a good high quality gram scale. Without the weight, all we can do now is wait and see! I'll be looking for an update!
  4. Hello Chris! I discourage the cleaning of coins completely. That said, I have cleaned some common modern coins found in parking lots that were covered with dirt and muck almost to the point that you could not tell it was a dime other than the shape. That would be called conservation, giving a coin a new life in circulation that otherwise would have eventually perished to the muck and the effects of time and weather. As for collectible coins and especially older pieces, I had asked NGC in the past about cleaning. I was told a light clear soap and do not rub the coin in your fingers will not get a ding for cleaning. Maybe just my opinion, but I say no soap at all. If it won't rinse off with just plain water and then let to dry on a microfiber towel, whatever is on the surface of the coin has already compromised its mint state. Remember NCS methods do not affect the actual surface of a coin. As for soap, do you know for sure there is not a component in the soap that will adhere to, etch, or otherwise affect the coin's surface? Probably not. If there is a silver or clad coin I really want to try to brighten up, I have an ultrasonic cleaner (same as used for jewelry). I do not use soap in it. Water only. I also have only used it for coins, nothing else. I put it through as many cycles as it takes until no more dirt comes off. The ultrasonic cleaner does not alter the surface of a coin, not even as rubbing a coin between your fingers as it is a no touch process. Same rule applies here, if it won't come off, the surface of the coin is already compromised. The ultrasonic cleaner as I found out the hard way is good for silver and clad coins only. DO NOT put copper coins in it! Not sure why but it will ruin the surface of copper. I think because after several cleaning cycles the water does get hot, and maybe has something to do with that and the vibration of the metal. That said, I have only ever put four coins in it. As I said, I do not believe in cleaning coins. The few I have, did return with a solid grade, but that is ONLY because I was able to get some dirt off the surface, and the original surface was intact. So I say, don't clean in the first place. Water only. NEVER any chemicals. Skip the soap. And embrace toning.
  5. Welcome Idhall! I will say that everyone ahead of me on this is correct in their solutions. I would like to also say that I remember a post long ago by VKurtB that is words to live by. "BU is a description, not a grade." We all have to deal with coins that have been cleaned in the past. It is part of this hobby, and none of us can escape it. I would venture to say that even some of the most seasoned on here when buying a coin at online auction without having it in hand, and dealing with photography that either isn't the best, or is doctored or filtered in some way, that a very light wipe which could cause a coin to get a Details Cleaned would be hard to identify. Keep in mind at least on eBay they now have a 30 day return policy on all purchases unless the seller has listed the coin as no returns accepted. Most reputable sellers will allow returns so keep that in mind and proceed with caution. Once you have the coin in hand to examine it, you can then put it through your paces and if you don't feel right about it, I would say return it to the seller. Now, as far as the actual cleaning, NGC will give details as Cleaned or Harshly Cleaned (I have gotten the latter when I was starting out in my submissions on coins I had for over 30 years). Lessons learned. I am in line with Coinbuf on this. A light wipe versus deep scratches or discoloration from the cleaning will affect its value. I am not one for going right to melt value. A coin is still a coin, cleaned or not. I discourage melting of coins. I would only think of melt value when it is a coin (as part of buying a whole collection say) that the date is completely unreadable because it is so worn (or damaged to the point that it could not even be considered for circulation or resale). Such a coin then basically holds face value as it cannot be graded and if it is a silver dollar say, the melt value will be more than face value. I have sold several coins that were details cleaned. I was actually surprised that they did sell. So, there is a market even for cleaned coins. Maybe the buyer is just trying to complete a set. Either way a buyer can be found. I sell these pieces by two metrics. One, how does the coin look? Back to Coinbuf's statement, was it just a little wipe or do you actually see damage with the naked eye? Is it discolored as well? Does it look "polished" (NGC will ascribe Polished details as well)? If the coin looks somewhat normal the better. The second I use is a rule of thumb in conjunction with the price guides. Unc Details Cleaned makes me automatically drop the price to whatever the MS60 grade is. This is where when you read the NGC label that details grade does not determine value. At least, the labels used to say that. If it is AU details, I drop to AU50. XF drops to VF and so on. Then, expect to get a percentage less than that as buyers of cleaned coins most of the time are just not willing to pay base level grade prices even at that lowered price. Hope this helps. Good luck!
  6. Before I send a coin in for a regrade for a mint error for rotated dies, I feel I need to ask at what starting date can a coin be considered a mint error? The coin I bought has been previously graded by NGC as XF45BN. It is a 1783 Washington & Independence "Unity" 1C. I bought it because I wanted it to add to my collection, but I didn't notice until after I purchased it that the reverse was rotated by 33 degrees. I am asking this question since the US Mint was not officially born by Congress until 1792, can it be considered a mint error since the US Mint did not actually exist at the time this coin was struck?
  7. I've submitted many coins and have had many different grades and descriptions return on my submitted coins, but I was emailed a shipping summary for one of my latest shipments and I see in part of the description on an 1861 3 Cent Silver a description of "Medallic Alignment". What exactly is Medallic Alignment? Thanks.
  8. Being the Morgan was not expected to be reissued after it was ended in 1904, I believe in the history of Morgans that the original dies were eventually destroyed and when the Pittman Act bought the dollar back in 1921 a new set of dies was made but the relief was shallow and the details were more flat. That being said, though, I see major points of wear on both sides of this coin as well as some actual damage near the bonnet. I agree with the others on the cleaning and it may even be considered as harshly cleaned. Considering the shallow relief of the dies, I would say this is borderline XF-AU details cleaned or harshly cleaned. I will try to drag up a photo on the obverse on one of my better 1921 Morgans as a reference....
  9. On your 47, the reverse looks a little better to me than the obverse. Using my phone trick so I can zoom in some on the details, on the reverse I see only a few very minor dings common to silver. The bundle of arrows looks pretty good, the highest point breast feathers are visible, and the wing tops look good. On the obverse, though, I see distraction in the fields (this may only be the photo or the angle of the photo) and several small scratches in the cheek and some along the neck. The details are good, but I think the distractions and small scratches on the obverse will hurt the grade some points. I have sent in some insanely mark free Washingtons in the past and the best grade I got on any was MS66. I am sure there will be those that may disagree with me but I am going to venture to say yours will grade MS65 keeping in mind the grade assigned is the coin overall including the obverse, reverse, rims, and edges. Nice finds at a great deal though!
  10. Welcome to this great hobby! I started collecting at age 7. I am now 50. My first piece of advice is to read, read, and read. Then read some more. And do not ever be afraid to ask questions. There is tons to learn in this hobby and even those of us going at it for a long time I am sure do not know absolutely everything. Get familiar with those books and the respective grading levels in them. I had the Whitman albums when I started out. I filled them with coins out of circulation. Basically the "cost" was face value. As it turns out, this helped me get used to the basics of higher and lower grades, mintage numbers, and basic values. It also fueled my desire to learn more about more different coins throughout history. I did not have NGC (or any other grading service) to help me learn so you have an advantage here. Take it slow. Before you spend significant amounts of money, use the knowledge of the people here instead of making rash purchases. I agree with the others, as I have purchased several rolls off eBay and stopped the practice after paying a decent amount of money on a roll of Mercury dimes and got seriously burned when it had two good end coins and the remaining of the roll was cull. Every roll has been searched at some point. I only received one true unsearched roll of wheats in my lifetime. My grandmother worked at the federal reserve in Chicago and pulled a roll of wheats which she gave me before she passed away. I never opened the roll until I became an NGC member roughly 7 years ago. The way I know it was unsearched is because all 50 in the roll were 1957 BU RED. I pulled one to send in here and it returned as MS66RD. I am telling you this as even bank rolled coins will have a variety of dates which in my opinion makes them already searched. Have fun in this beginning stage. And don't be afraid to collect some of the modern coins as you can also assemble full albums of higher quality quickly and at face value. Being as you are a member keep in mind the cost of grading versus the cost of the coin in the slab before you send anything in. Even older Roosevelt dimes and Jefferson nickels and some of the 40's and 50's of the wheats even at better examples might not be worth the cost of the slab. This may make no difference to you if you really want it slabbed, but as you progress in the hobby, and want to flip for higher grades like you mentioned doing, your 1949 wheat MS65RB that may have cost you $3-4 to get and paid the $20 grading fee will only flip for maybe $8-10. Over large quantities of coins, this could be very costly to you in the long run. Once again, don't be afraid to post good photos here and ask us first before submitting anything. The only other thing I can share with you about my long collecting history is that is has changed greatly over time. I began like you. Now with my current earning level, and knowledge level, I have gone another route. I always liked Morgans, and always will. But once I could afford better coins, I greatly branched out and started into Trade Dollars, early copper, and most early silver. I went from trying to fill an album with lower grade coins to collecting only high end specimens and getting them at prices for less than they are worth. I realized anybody could slap an album together of G and VG or even F grade coins, but now find more satisfaction of having a coin with the fullest of details I can find so I know what it truly looked like in the past. Again, welcome, and enjoy this wonderful hobby and all of the people you will meet in your searches and the new friends you will make along the way.
  11. If anything, the very minor "doubling" of only certain parts and letters of the reverse tells me the die was beginning to enter its late stages and would fall under die erosion doubling which is not a true DDR.
  12. Great photo comparison RWB! Makes even more inconsistencies highly noticeable.
  13. The fact that you are even questioning this coin should be cause enough to suspect that it has been altered. Either way, altered or not, there was some heavy damage done to either clean it harshly, or something else to cause it to have severe damage. Even with a details grade if it is not an altered mintmark, the amount of damage on this coin would lower its price to the floor. The photos you have are not really clear but there seems to be disturbance of the metal in the mintmark area. I hope you didn't pay big bucks for this as I think its value is little to none.
  14. I think we are saying the same thing two different ways Bob. Yours is a better explanation than mine.
  15. The word COPY is a requirement here, NOT in China. Its always buyer beware. As for anything slabbed, you can look up the number on either PCGS or NGC. Anyone copying the number and then charging $113 for a super low mintage Morgan should scream fake to you. As for others, the best we can do is educate educate educate on any platform possible so those just entering the hobby will not be separated from their money. The world we live in now is loaded with scammers. I am of the mindset that everybody is crooked until proven otherwise, and anyone entering this hobby should buy a scale before they buy their first coin.
  16. On first look, I see what is counterfeit (not genuine) or considered exonumia (a re-creation of a desirable low mintage coin). The coin you have looks too perfect to be true as well as I noted that the details were too good on the obverse and then the details of the eagle on the reverse seem to be very poor and mushy. Even the best specimens of 1921 Peace dollars I have seen have what seems to be "wear" on Liberty's hair and on the top of the eagles feathers. It is not wear but the quality of the first set of dies on the first year of the first run of a new series of coin. There is too many inconsistencies for this coin to be genuine to me, and as usual, the true test would be to weigh it, but I would expect you to find that you have a nice novelty coin.
  17. I sent in a 1998 Lincoln cent where the ME in AMERICA had something in the die that caused a small lump of metal to "underline" the ME. It returned graded as normal. Upon further reading, things get caught in dies commonly in the minting process and something like you have while it may not be exactly normal, is not even recognized as a variety unless the dies making the unique characteristic produced a run of several hundred or thousand coins all with the same characteristic. I'm with the other guys on this. I see a well circulated dime with environmental damage that is worth face value and belongs in circulation.
  18. I'm with Mr. Bill on this one. I've learned through my own submissions about die erosion, which causes metal flow into areas where it not normally would be. Die erosion doubling is common but not a mint error. True doubling is a crisp doubling image which can be seen in devices because the planchet has slightly shifted in the collar between the multiple strikes. When lettering or numbers are "thick and mushy" and you see doubling, it is die erosion doubling. Either way, doubling itself is not a mint error but rather a variety. See NGC's resources page on errors which are recognized as mint errors. I see many sellers listings for double die and they are asking way too much because they are claiming that the doubling is a mint error which it most certainly is not. It is a variety. Sure DDO/DDR/TDO/TDR, etc. should command a higher price than normal as in the 1955 Lincoln cent doubled die, but beware of sellers asking astronomical prices claiming doubling as a mint error. As for the Roosys, the early 80's dies were notoriously overused. There are good specimens which are hard to find (MS67 or higher) from the strikes in the early stages of the dies, but you will most commonly find MS66 or lower which leads to what you see in the price guides where there is a major jump in price between MS66 and MS67 and up.
  19. Maybe more opinions would help here as I am only offering my single opinion at the opening request....
  20. If you enlarge the image of the wheat I have that I posted above, they called it a curved clip even though there isn't an actual part of the planchet gone. It caught the rims on both the obverse and reverse. It didn't travel into the coin as far as it is on his quarter, but it is the best thing I have that is similar to the condition on his coin.
  21. You could also check out CONECA at the website https://conecaonline.org They are they authority on mint errors.
  22. Not saying that or even 100% that they will call it an error. I think if you can check error coins over the internet and find something slabbed that is close to the condition on your quarter then you have a chance of earning the mint error label. Its probably going to be hard to see but here is one of my errors that is the closest thing I can find similar to yours.
  23. I have 1955 wheat with both fives filled and submitted it as a mint error but it returned as not a mint error and a regular grade. After checking, I agree with the others and learned that was created from either a die chip or other foreign matter that had gotten into the die. As for the edge, I agree with Greenstang, as that is just a minor misalignment of the die. Also not an error. The only way die misalignments earn a mint error label from NGC is if it is so bad that part of the true image is missing, i.e. some lettering in the motto, say, or a numeral of the date missing. Otherwise it comes back with the little white sticker that says "Not a mint error - too insignificant".