powermad5000

To the OP, you have gotten answers, but I noted through the responses, nobody touched on your mention/question if anything is "hidden" in the certification number. I think you mean the submission number by this. There is no "secret coding" in the submission number on the slab. It is simply the way NGC keeps track of your coins through their processes at their facility, keeps coins from getting lost, and makes sure the coins you send to them get back to you and not get mixed up and sent to some other collector/submitter.

Only one of them.

What I use to tell on these whether they are large date or small date is not the alignment at the top. To me it easy to tell using the 7. On a large date, the bottom of the 7 extends below the bottom of the zero. On a small date, the bottom of the seven is even with the bottom of the zero. Maybe that makes it easier for you. I think you have two large date 1970 S cents.

Hello and welcome to the forum! I literally only took one second to look at your coin and the crazy shine and the date numerals misshapen and touching the rim told me right there you have a counterfeit coin. While sometimes some of the counterfeits that come across the forum here can be quite deceptive and it takes some looking into to determine from a photo what the OP has, this coin is not one of those. There are outstanding and glaring differences between yours and a genuine example. And no worries really. You came to the right place to have people look at what you have and give you an honest assessment. Most of us here have been at it in the hobby for a long time we are all volunteers here who try to help people.

I am sorry you spent good money to purchase this. It looks like a vise job to me. Seeing as the lettering of the different year cent is backwards and incuse and the lettering on the reverse is also incuse and backwards tells me someone used force to press a different cent into the surface of the host cent. It also looks like someone used the host 1983 cent in the middle between two different cents, one on each side when they crushed them together in the vise. Sadly, this is not an error but is simply mutilation of a cent (actually three because the other cents in the vise used to press the images are typically also ruined). You need to keep in mind just because something "looks different" that it does not automatically mean it is an error. You also have to think when viewing things such as these as to just how could that be produced in the striking of a coin. Being this had two different years of cents involved should have been a huge red flag that what you are seeing did not happen during the striking of the coin. Error collecting is a niche in the hobby and requires much more additional knowledge than just collecting and grading of coins. You need to know all of the minting processes and how coins are made just to be able to begin to understand errors. As it seems you are newer to collecting, I don't recommend searching for error coins until you have basic collecting and grading down including being good at spotting damage, cleaning, and other coin impairments. There are bad sellers everywhere hocking stuff like what you have posted here to separate someone without proper knowledge from their money on a damaged coin. I don't know how much you actually paid and you don't have to tell us, but I sure hope it was not a lot and really hope it was not in the hundreds of dollars (or thousands) as I have found many bad sellers charging these amounts for damaged junk coins and claiming them to be errors. Sorry to see this lesson separated you from good money.

That sure is unusual to find in a roll! I am also surprised it is in such good condition for its age. Excellent find!

Thank you for the better photos. Now that they are not blurry, I am not seeing any form of doubling on obverse of this cent. What are you seeing that makes you think this is a DDO? You might have to provide clear closeups of what you are referring to. I would say if you are seeing some slight form of secondary doubling with the coin in hand, it most surely would be some form of limited strike/mechanical doubling.

This thread got me to thinking, and a long time ago, I made a purchase at a coin shop of the cent I am including in the picture below. I bought this cent because it had a different look to it than the regular copper plated ones I am so used to seeing, and the shop had it in a sleeve with a handwritten tag calling it a "Yellow Jacket". Perhaps this topic is what they were referring to. I labeled the slab with my own tag when it came back because it just looks different. I submitted this straight not thinking it could be a mint error. Now, I might have to dig this out of my SDB and give it another hard look, and maybe resubmit it and see what happens.

Thanks for the follow up pic. I guess my grading skills are getting a little better. Well, being ANACS will ding coins for cleaning and other issues and this coin passed their graders, I would probably say then it would also numerical grade if you carefully cracked it out. The grade crossing it over might be the same so I am not sure if you would gain anything on the grade. It could but is no guarantee. It is your money to spend if you were to crack this out. I do have only one last question for you. What reason do you want to crack this out and have it NGC graded? Just don't like the ANACS holder, or do you want all your coins to have been graded by NGC? I'm just curious as to your answer because all of my slabs are NGC, and I did have a Morgan in one of these slabs which I cracked out for that reason.

Thanks to the link provided by @Sandon I read and viewed this and even though I have never seen a slab with this designation, I now know it does exist. I learned something from this post so thank you. Feeder finger damage errors are not new however and those have been around for longer than I have been collecting coins which is 45+ years. I am not sure why I could not get to the page in the link directly through my previous error-ref searches.

First off, what is the coin they sold at auction? Could you provide us either photos of it or the link to auction end where we can see the coin they sold? Without knowing what it is they sold and what year, it is hard to answer your question. As far as cents go though, I can only assume you are referring to modern Lincoln Cents which were struck on either brass planchets, or bronze planchets, or copper-plated zinc planchets. The zinc (not zink) planchets would have all been copper-plated so if one was somehow stuck with a brass plating, that would lead to it being a mint error as it should have been copper-plated, not brass plated.

Hello and welcome! Thanks for supplying good pics of the coin in question here. We don't get many first posters who give us good pics to look over their coins. It appears you have correctly identified one of the 1972 DDO varieties (I believe there was 9 total) and does appear to be the FS-101 variety. While this is an excellent find in a roll which are typically already cherrypicked, this coin does have some major disadvantages. The coin seems to be in AU condition albeit the lower end of AU. However, it would get a details grade Damaged for the gouge on Abe's forehead and hair. Also, I think it would get dinged as well for some light environmental damage, especially seen on the reverse in your photos and may say both things on the label as well if it were slabbed. One other thing I note is some mild staining on the obverse, some spots of discoloration which detract some from its eye appeal. All that said, this coin in AU in the price guide is somewhere between $200-240 in BN. With this coin's impairments, however, it would only sell for the appropriate discount for such impairments which could be 1/3 to 1/2 less than the listed guide price. While this coin ranks #10 on the list of Top 100 US modern coins as far as demand goes, and is popular among collectors of modern coins, it is still suffering from its impairments and on a single coin submission under the Economy tier, shipping to and from and the standard processing charge, you might only be near a break even on grading costs. If this were my coin, I would not submit this for grading but if I were to be willing to part with it, I would sell it raw and get what I could for it, probably in an auction on a site like eBay might get you your best price without killing you on selling fees. Or you could take this to a coin show and sell it raw there for no fees, but remember that a dealer is only going to give you an absolute base price for it with the impairments which could be less than $100. You did not tell us if this roll cost you any to obtain in the first place, so you need to figure out where your own price break is when it comes time to sell it. In all, I wouldn't submit this coin as I don't think in the end you will come out much ahead. Nice roll find though! I have yet to come across anything like this in a roll or loose change. I am just one opinion of many opinions you will get on here so we will see what some of the others have to say.

It's a little overboard for weighing coins, but it is a lab scale. I wanted totally 100% accurate weights when I do have the need to weigh coins so I went big.

It is really a shame this one had such a rough life. Not very common. NGC has only graded 9 total.

Hello and welcome to the forum! I looked up on this page under the Submit tab what NGC will grade and accept and below is a copy from their list. You can look up the list yourself under this tab and look under tokens and medals. While I don't see yours technically listed, it sounds as if you have enough information that you could relay to them if they wanted it. They may ask you to send them copies of this information along with your submission. If I were in your shoes, I would call NGC Customer Service directly and describe the situation to them and make sure they would encapsulate your coin. I would call it a coin since it is not really a trade token or a medal and was made at very small mint but albeit a mint nonetheless. Hope this helps! That's a neat piece with some history by the way. NGC'S CERTIFICATION SERVICES FOR US AND WORLD TOKENS AND MEDALS Posted on 1/2/2012 NGC certifies the widest range of Exonumia and Americana. Visit the NGC Tokens and Medals Census This list of materials that we officially authenticate, attribute and grade is periodically updated as we continue to expand the service. We offer certified grading for most of these materials using our regular and Oversize holders; however, a color photo certificate may be issued if your item is too large or too fragile to be encapsulated. Tokens and medals may be submitted under any grading tier based on value and desired turnaround time. Also select the Tokens and Medals service, which does not have an additional fee. Variety attribution, where applicable, is included. US Tokens and Medals A.B. Sage Series Medals Admiral Dewey Medals ANA Convention Medals Bimetallic Trade Tokens of the US, as listed in Schenkman Bolen Medals, as listed in Neil Musante Bryan Money, as listed in Schornstein Calendar Medals California Fractional Gold Pieces, Periods One and Two, along with several Period Three pieces, as listed in Breen-Gillio. For more information, click here. Charbneau Dollars, as listed in Shevlin Civil War Tokens Civil War Store Card and Patriotic Tokens, as listed in Fuld Civil War Sutler Tokens, as listed in Schenkman Monitor & Merrimac Tokens and Medals, as listed in Schenkman Bashlow restrikes of CSA 1c and 50c Counterstamps, as listed in Brunk Dog Tags, as listed in Maier and Stahl Early American, Hard Times, Merchant and Trade Tokens as listed in Rulau Elongated Tokens, as listed in Martin and Dow Franklin Medals, as listed in Greenslet Franklin Mint Official Inaugural Medals Hard Rubber Tokens, as listed in Schenkman Hawaiian Tokens and Medals, as listed in Medcalf & Russell Inaugural Medals, as listed in Levine Indian Nations Coinage Shawnee Sovereign Nation Poarch Creek Sovereign Nation Joseph H. Merriam Medals, as listed in Schenkman Lesher Dollars Libertas American & Paris Restrikes Lincoln Medals, as listed in King Louisiana Purchase Expo, as listed in Hendershott Masonic Chapter Pennies Medallic Art Company Medals Native American Peace Medals, as listed in Jamieson Pan-American Expo, as listed in Lavin Political Tokens and Medals Campaign tokens and medals, as listed in DeWitt / Sullivan Robbins Space Medals, as listed in Weinberger So-Called Dollars, as listed in Hibler & Kappen (excluding HK-908 & HK-909) So-Called Half Dollars, including but not limited to C. Smith issues and Heraldic Art Medals State and City Centennial/Bicentennial/Sesquicentennial Medals Stone Mountain Counterstamps T. Elder Issue, as listed in Delorey US Mint Medals American Arts Commemorative Series and Wildlife Refuge US Mint Medals listed in Julian & Keusch US Mint Medals listed in Swoger and Dean Washintonia, as listed in Baker World’s Fair and Expositions World’s Columbian Exposition Tokens and Medals, as listed in Eglit 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair Tokens and Medals, as listed in Hendershott

Reported.

The ones we had had a hex shaft like you would have on a chisel that you use with a hammer. Then they flared out to a sort of egg type shape and were all hollow inside and the end of the egg shape was where the sharp end was and that had the hole in the middle of it. We held them by hand in the right spot and hit it with a hammer to cut the hole in the rubber. I could ask one of the guys who still works there after all these years for a pic of them if you want to see what they looked like.

I had another thought this morning on this topic. To add twist to attempting to achieve the goal of figuring out this number, I started thinking about some lower mintages of older issues. I'll just use the 1916 D Mercury Dime as an example. With only 264,000 minted, if there were more than 264,000 collectors of older coinage and especially these dimes, none of these would be available for sale as they would all be residing and filling that slot in each collection, yet, there are still many examples available for sale and these come up in AG and G in auctions frequently. That means either collectors don't want it in these grades or that there are not that many collectors to deplete the number for them to be available. Which led me to think then we have collectors all scattered about all the different issues and some who only collect by specialty such as error collectors. We have collectors who collect only ASE's and nothing else. We have collectors that only collect Lincoln Wheats and nothing else. We have collectors that only collect anything from the Barber series (dimes, quarters, halves) and nothing else. We have collectors that only collect Capped Bust halves and nothing else. This then also adds to the impossibility of trying to pin down the total number of collectors overall.

The pics are a little too blurry to tell for sure if there even is any kind of doubling on it. From what I can tell, if there is any doubling it would be some sort of strike/mechanical doubling or one of the nicknamed Poor Mans 1955 DDO which isn't a true hub doubled coin but rather from an overpolished die I believe. Many of these are for sale on sites like eBay but there are some unscrupulous sellers on sites like Etsy and Temu that will try to pass these off as the real deal. Either way, this is not a coin I would submit to a TPG for grading.

Everything we had at that shop was ancient as far as tooling went. We had them from 1" all the way down to 3/16". There may have been a 1/8" one originally but if there was I am sure it got so trashed someone probably threw it out. It was a cool set, but most of them were well worn out and when management was asked to get us new ones because most of them only cut half the rubber out of the hole, we got the standard answer of "Well, just try to sharpen them somehow and get them to work".

Hello and welcome to the forum! It only took me a few seconds with a look at the date numerals to know these are all counterfeits. The 7 is missing the uptick, the 9 is missing the knob, and the 4 is missing the uptick and is incorrectly shaped. As well as all the numerals look lower and smaller than on an original. I did not really need to examine the reverse. The fact that these do not stick to a magnet is because they are probably mostly nickel with some other cheaper metals like tin and copper mixed in. Some of the Chinese counterfeits have been close to the weights of the originals so you can't always go off the weight. These however have obvious differences in detail from a genuine specimen.

I used those at my old job. I would think striking metal with it that it wouldn't last very long without totally trashing the end on it. We set the gaskets on a wood block to try to keep the punches from getting dulled out too quickly. I think those are a pretty much really old way of doing it as I think today they cut gaskets with a laser. Much faster and a much better cut.

The only error I have heard of where something gets pressed into the coin is a retained die break where a small piece of the die breaks off right before the coin is struck and that piece of the die becomes embedded into the coin while it is being struck. A strike through is called that because the coin was struck through a foreign object which left the imprint of the object in the coin. Being @VKurtB is active in ANA, perhaps he would like to inform me on this "new" error as I have never seen an error coin with that label.

Looks like someone who lives in your area or in a nearby area is counterstamping coins with this 8.

Hello and welcome! The instructions for posting are clear and easily understandable. Please provide clear, fully cropped photos of both sides of the coin along with a question. I cannot give an opinion based upon the photos provided.