powermad5000

A very badly damaged dime. Let it keep circulating. It's not even worth keeping.

Hello and welcome to the forum! I will tell you that I collected coins for about 40 years before I ever made my first submission to have about a dozen coins graded. I had spent the time, however, learning about the hobby. I already had a grip on mintage numbers, self grading, rarity, varieties, and mint errors. My first submission was mixed. Some of what returned was surprisingly good, and some surprisingly bad. I took away from that a learning experience which is still continuing. And I realized just how little I knew after collecting coins for so long. A lot of those coins I originally collected over all those years got sold. I did have some high quality specimens in my collection without realizing just how good they were, however. Those coins I had gotten that I bought because they "looked really nice" actually were. The point I am trying to make is that I began submitting because they were my coins and it was my collection and I wanted to expand both the collection and the knowledge. Back then it was a little cheaper than it is now to submit. Depending on the value of the coins you want to send, it can get crazy expensive now to submit. For 30 coins of rough value of $300 or less, it will cost you about $1000 in total to get those 30 slabs back. As someone who sends all of their coins in, it has changed the way I collect. Keeping key dates or scant mintage numbers out of the equation, I no longer collect anything in AU. My selection process is extremely strict and I shoot for MS 64 and up regardless of the series minted. The grading costs have just become too prohibitive to submit lesser value coins in, and as an independent collector-just-a-little-guy, I am not going to get some kind of break on bulk submissions. That said, I submit for two reasons : Protection of the coin, and to establish a "base value" of my collection. I use the term base value as grading is subjective, and not a perfect science. Even a coin in a holder can cause a discussion on these forums and with multiple opinions. I try not to look at the tag in the holder as "the law", but as a good indication of the quality of the coin inside. I have sold off some of my submissions that didn't return as expected and watched some I sold at auction go way above price guide values during bidding wars, and I have sold outright some coins that were impaired that I thought would never sell, get snatched up immediately. When it comes to selling, you never know who wants a certain coin for what reason. What I have noticed is the graded coins I have sold, sell about ten times faster than the raw coins I have sold. Back to the base value, it just means that the tag in the holder means when it comes time for me to sell the coin, I am not going to let someone give me AU value for an MS 64. Since you already sent some of your coins out, I am hoping you will not get discouraged with the results, but treat it as a learning experience. Good luck on your submission and come back to tell us how it returned. We would like to hear a submission success story!

There were a handful of 1944 Wheat Cents that were punched on leftover 1943 steel planchets but there definitely were not many. I don't see how a steel planchet could still be leftover by 1945. And as stated by Greenstang, the weight would be 2.7g IF in the winning both the Powerball and Mega Millions in the same week type of luck that there was ONE planchet still leftover and a Mint employee put it into the dies. It is probably plated with nickel and that both adds to the weight, and also allows it to be magnetic. If you really don't wish to believe that the coin isn't plated, you can spend $50-$200 for a submission membership, $30-$50 for shipping costs to the grader, $25 for a tier grading fee, $15 for a mint error substantiation fee, and $20-$30 for return shipping, to get back a 2.5x2.5 flip with a tag in it that says NOT ENCAPSULATED, PLATED.

Lincoln Wheat cents were not plated or clad, so the OP's request about that topic in regards to the original coin in the post is even more confusing.

A 1985 S Lincoln Memorial cent proof is copper plated with a zinc core. On the business strikes of the Lincolns in the 1980's-early 1990's there were a lot of issues with the plating shifting, bubbling, or cracking. I would imagine even with the extra care to make proofs that there could still be issues with the plating. I am leaning less towards a die chip as the dies used to make proofs are highly polished and clean and I am leaning more towards an issue with the plating bubbling up in the area of the mintmark.

Welcome everybody! Well, we have a bunch of badly damaged quarters. We have one scale that is either not a gram scale or an accurate scale or both. And we have a YoubeToobie expert somewhere out there that every coin put through a die grinder is a mint error. To answer the question if mint errors are certified, the answer is yes. That is after you pay for your membership ($50-$200), roughly $30 shipping to the grading service, $18 tier grading fee, $15 mint error substantiation fee, and the return shipping fee of $25-$50. I wish YouTube would pull videos with inaccurate information in them.

Physically and environmentally damaged.

It would look like this. You would see distinct markings of the mintmark being repunched. Your coin has a normal S.

I used to ask myself this very question. And I eventually came up with my own answer to it. Lets take a coin from the past. An 1880 (P) Morgan dollar. It is now over 100 years old. Its mintage was 12,600,000. It is not clear how many were melted down in the Pittman act of 1918. In MS 64, which is still a nice coin, it is priced around $100 today. And it is made of silver. Fast forward to a 1980 Lincoln cent. The mintage number was 7,414,705,000. It was made of brass. Being there were so many made, and the population of collectors growing as well as US Mint promoting the collection of coins through various means (not to mention the now YouTube video watcher craze that has everybody looking at every coin for the most minor imperfection claiming said face value coin is now worth a million dollars plus), I believe between the amount minted, and the quantity of collectors growing each year who are pulling these 1980 cents out of circulation immediately, will make high grade specimens easily obtainable 100 years from now, but will also make the said value of these coins across the hundred years to be much of a flat line with maybe a small step up ($0.50) in value at the 100 year mark. Back to the Lincoln, I believe in 100 years, when you mention a 1980 Lincoln cent, you will have collectors that say, "Eh. I got a full roll of them still brand new never unwrapped." (I was given a full roll of 1957 Lincoln Wheats by my grandmother who worked at a large Chicago bank when I was a child and never opened the roll till recently. I sent the best two in for grading and both came back MS 65 RD. Point is I have 48 of these in MS 65 RD and it is 75 years from when they were made but the roll isn't going to help me retire early). Even if we step up to the 1980 P Susan B Anthony dollar, with mintage of 27,610,000, the whole Susan B. series died out because it was not popular with the public. Even with the passing of 100 years, I don't see there being a boom in popularity of these coins. And that lack of demand will keep the value line over time flat. So, my long winded explanation to your quick question would be summarized in laymen's terms as follows : Collecting rules involving mintage amount and demand, the two drivers of value, will still be similar 100 years from now. Modern coins from the 70's and 80's (exceptions of already collectible varieties such as say the 72 DDO Lincoln, 1982 No P Roosevelt Dime, 1982 P No FG Kennedy Half, 1979 P Susan B Anthony Wide Rim), will not see either a rise in demand, or a rise in value 100 years from now.

One photo is too washed out with light to see anything substantial, two photos are not cropped and are too small to see any details in question, and the one closeup with the date shows a smashed zero which is post mint damage. From what I can discern in the small uncropped photos looks like a level of environmental damage.

Keeping on topic, the new pics the OP posted are still only focusing on the date, not the rest of the obverse we need to see to determine an FS variety.

This thread is proving its own point. All the coins in this thread are fake. Typically counterfeiting is usually the other way around where there are a small amount of fakes in the mix of many genuine coins with the counterfeiter trying to take the money of someone who is unsuspecting. According to numismatist Eric P. Newman, an estimated 6,000 coins were minted, probably in New York. With that mintage number, even long term collectors will never have one of these in hand unless they devoted their full resources to try to get an authentic one. Also being they were struck in sliver, pewter, and some in brass, the weights range from 15g to 19g, so for those throwing their scaled weights out there is about pointless in this discussion. Examples provided here either show details of the coin being in perfect condition (which if I am not mistaken the highest known grade of an authentic of these coins is an MS 62), or either have washed out or mushy details. As for the R, that was basically nice of the maker to try to not deceive the person buying it, but true counterfeiters are not going to be that nice. With as many fakes as are in this thread, I seriously doubt we will see a genuine one make an appearance.

I am in agreement with Greenstang on this one. At quick first look, my mind went right to die erosion doubling. The lettering is flowing towards the rim and in the center of the reverse at the pillars of the memorial it is flowing out to the sides of each pillar.

For the 1936 DDO FS 101 and FS 102 varieties, doesn't there have to be strong doubling evident not only in just the date but also in LIBERTY and the In God We Trust motto as well?? It is hard to discern from the photo given by the OP of the obverse who was just focusing on the date, but a better pic of these areas as well on the obverse would be needed in my opinion to determine if the coin is a true FS DDO variety. Otherwise, we are just looking at a more extreme example of mechanical doubling. In addition to my doubt, I agree with Coinbuf and the others that there is a large area of damage on Lincoln's face that would earn a details grade and severely limit the value of this coin. It is not auction house worthy and would likely only see its best offering if sold on eBay.

I did not mean for my post to come across that way, Paul. I meant it as just the mention of that date and mintmark together puts it into fantasyland right away.

A 1921 CC Morgan.....bwhahahahaha!!!!!! I have an ocean front luxury estate in Malibu that I am selling for $100 too.....

While in better condition than most other past circulated nickels, I do not see anything "high end", and the reverses are not showing any with full steps (either 5 or 6), and the 68 S reverse is showing PMD. Keeping in mind that there are some truly high end Jeffersons graded in holders that still sell for quite reasonable money, I would see if I could fill an album with these.

Another testament to the withstanding ability of the Jefferson Nickel. Most in pocket change or cash register change are more worn than that. Its a keeper!

If there is a die clash involved in this coin, it is far too minor to be recognized as a mint error by any of the TPG's.

I am going to stick with the Liberty Cap Cents series (1793-1796) with many low mintages and the one key date in the following description by NGC : The most coveted of all Sheldon numbered large cents is 1795 S-79, the famous Reeded Edge cent, sometimes called the Holy Grail of Sheldon numbers. Just eight examples are known today, including one in the ANS holdings. Worst grade possible but I am happy to have just one of them....

Hello! The six moderns would cost roughly $100 for grading, plus you have shipping fees to and from NGC. Basically $150. You would spend that to become a Premium member and have that as a credit, but the coins are certainly not worth the nearly $200 to get started.

One thing about the Jefferson series is that you can still get some high quality coins for cheap. Good deal!

Those are some great finds to pull out of the ground!!!! As for the Connecticut, if the date on a coin is not legible enough to be read by the graders (even though they might be able to identify the actual coin as you have with the Connecticut), NGC will not put the coin in a holder and it will be returned to you as Date Not Legible. You will be out the shipping costs, grading fees as they still do have to look at the coin, and the return shipping, so it is really not worth trying in this case. I found this out the hard way sending an 1811 Half Cent in which the numbers were barely legible but not enough for their standards. I would assume PCGS would do the same. Keeping in mind that Poor 1 is the lowest grade possible for a coin but even the standards for that grade level are that the date be readable. I would put it in a flip and hang on to it though. Cool finds!

The coin has a level of wear and something bad happened to the reverse. Not sure how that level of damage didn't affect the obverse as well, but I would lean to say some of that damage was intentional.

Put away the microscope. A 7X or 10X magnifier or loupe is all you need to examine coins. Using a microscope will lead you down the rabbit hole of finding "all kinds of things wrong" with the coin. TPG's do not use a microscope to evaluate coins and you should not either. Many of the plated Lincoln cents of the 90's time period had several different issues with the plating, from cracking to bubbling to minorly shifting from the pressure during the strike. All are within mint tolerance for high production runs. This is good example of that.