powermad5000

Yes. But as it popped up in my unread, I read the whole thread and made a comment.

Correct. It was very late last night when I made that post so my mind was turning to mush at that point. I used the wrong word.

Welcome to the hobby and forum! In the absence of very high grades with red in color, there are only a handful of Lincoln wheat particulars to look for. Look for a 1909 S VDB, 1914 D,1922 NO D, 1931 S, and a 1955 DOUBLED DIE OBVERSE. The others would be album fillers. There are people who sell Lincoln Wheat cents by the pound or in bags of 5,000 so if the grades on common wheats are not high, they are not worth much. If you are starting to get into collecting, get a Red Book or at least a current price guide book, but the Red Book is preferred as it lists weights, and I also recommend ANA Grading Standards book (Volume 6 can still be found cheaply on eBay for someone just starting out and the information is still viable). You can also refer to the price guides and coin explorer on here. Good luck on the search!

There is no hub doubled die image on the coin you posted to say it is anything other than mechanical doubling. A well known cent close to the date of yours which I have included an image of from NGC Variety Plus shows what a DDO should look like.

Hello and welcome to the forum! The below image from NGC coin explorer is for an MS 67/68. Your camera is also not going to show as much contact marks as the coin in hand would and also under what TPG graders use when grading a coin which is 10X magnification. Under 10X, there will be MORE contact marks than you think going off your digital images. As well as the obvious light circulation already visible to the naked eye. I agree with the others the AU category but the amount of contact marks might bring this coin to a low end AU. I will state that you posted on this forum a question about a coin and asked an opinion of some members on here who have 60+ years of collecting experience and they gave you their unbiased opinion of the coin in question. They also have advised not to spend your hard earned money to have it graded. While some replies may seem harsh to you and are not agreeing with your expectations on your coin, you are at least not getting any fluff or misinformation from the people here. Should you submit this coin anyway and it comes back from a TPG graded as AU, will you also tell them they are incorrect? We all strive to get MS 68 grades on our coins and if we did, we would all be rich. There is a reason there is so few populated graded in that condition as it is difficult to achieve. NGC has only graded two at MS 68 out of 288,015,744 made. The surface and details of your coin should look like this to get that grade.

Hello and welcome to the forum! Foreign mints did not have the same standards as the US mints and many foreign coins were produced with errors but have little to no intrinsic value. When a die cracks the metal flow from the strike flows into the cracks in the die and produces a coin like the one you presented. It happens in every coin making process (the US not exempt) due to wear and the high pressures used to strike coins. While creating a difference in appearance, they are not considered rare nor an error as it happens as a normal part of the minting process. As far as collectability, they have not caused any premiums for collectors, even over time and some collectors will pass on these coins as they prefer to get specimens in the best state possible. As you stated that you have several different coins, as mentioned by Sandon, the NGC World Price Guide is a handy tool for checking values. I will say though to a new collector, the tool is a little difficult to use for more obscure coins where either a country is not readily known or a denomination is not on the coin itself. In those cases you can try a Google Search or if your phone has Google Lens to establish what the coin is.

As far as I know, most things aren't reported, and when they are the resources are not there to send people to shut things down. I also don't know what laws apply or do not apply when these things are coming from a foreign country and if our government can't do anything unless it tries to come into our border. It is a sad state of affairs. The internet has enabled a lot of this. Before the net, you would not even know that place existed.

I'm going to a meeting next week. It is called a coin show.

My apologies. I didn't think this variety got as much as is shown in the price guide. However, I do know that details coins basically lose 1/3 of the values listed in price guides and I do believe it would get a details for environmental damage. If it graded not as XF but VF, you might be lucky just to break even on sale of it with the cost of grading. As I tell most people though, it is your money and if you want to submit it, nobody can tell you that you can't.

Typically, most metal detector finds are not worth submitting to a TPG (typically silver, and especially copper - gold is different as it is resistant to even being put into the ground). If a bury or accidental loss that succumbed to the changing earth were a truly rare coin it would be a different story. I know a few MD's (what I call them) and they find coins all the time. I instructed them to get a current coin price guide that also explains basic grades and gives a value to them, and to only send me a pic of something that makes no sense to them. Basically, I have not gotten any photos and they haven't even texted me to ask about anything. They thanked me for directing them to the price guides. I recommend the same thing for you if you are going to continue on your metal detecting endeavors as you will probably find many coins buried but most if not all not worth the costs of submission.

I don't see any doubling as would be produced by the hub, so I am going to say this is some sort of mechanical doubling. I don't think there was even but a handful of recognized varieties for the entire series and the only true doubled one that I know of is the Duke Ellington District of Columbia on the reverse where there is clear doubling visible I think on his hand and name and the piano. There are a lot of the quarters in this series that were over magnified and/or YouTube hyped because somebody found an imperfection in one of them. One of the big ones was the West Virginia Harpers Ferry reverse where somebody supposedly found an extra window (or maybe it was a doorway) on the reverse. Most likely it was a minor imperfection and well within mint tolerance, but some YouTube star made it explode yet it has never been widely recognized or designated by the collector community.

I would say the coin is XF but has some environmental damage so it would probably get a details grade. I would question however why you would even think of submitting this coin in the first place? This is a clad quarter and the condition it is in without the environmental damage would only set this coin's value at about fifty cents. There is absolutely no reason to slab this coin. As far as bicentennial quarters, I have a bag of about 400 of them from spare change. I started saving them when I started collecting coins over 40 years ago and just keep throwing the ones I get in change into the bag. I call them drummer boy quarters. I have one graded but it is an S silver in mid MS and I wanted better protection for it (I also thought it was going to grade higher but it didn't). It would be a huge dollar loss to have this graded by any TPG. Keep it in a flip or an album.

I see you got no responses to this post. It may also be helpful to move this to the Newbie section of the forum where many members seem to go on almost every day. If you cant figure out how to move the post to the new section, then try to open a new post in the Newbie coin questions section.

Love how you are building the set at bargain prices....

This 1934 S is a terrible fake and another of the OP's coins that punched me in the face right when I looked at the first pic. Much better pics. Too bad another counterfeit. And well, people do leave stuff in those lockers Sandon. I remember reading one story in the news that a buyer of a locker found over 1 million dollars in cash in it. I have heard of coins being found in them but not any coins of extreme rarity or high value. It wouldn't be necessary to stash a single coin or a few of high value in a locker as it could very easily be hidden within a household and be much safer. I myself hid a time capsule in my current location when I ripped out and redid the kitchen pantry. I sealed into the space behind the new pantry a sealed plastic bag with a Buffalo Nickel, a Lincoln Wheat, an old stamp, a button from an old pair of jeans, and some other random items. Nothing of rarity or high grade, just some things from the past that someone a super long time from now (most likely after I have passed on) might find and be filled with wonder at. I did find in this unit about a dozen Lincoln wheats behind the baseboards left by the builders, and in the previous unit I found about 10 Lincoln Wheats and 2 Mercury dimes hidden behind those baseboards left by the builders. One of the Mercs was a 1934 and actually graded as MS 65. People do things that others cannot fully explain.

LOL! I had that word a couple times in another post and it seems the mods designed the chat board to change some words used to politically correct versions....LOL! To try to remain on topic, back to the OP's question, BOTH sides of the coin must exhibit the same depth of reflectivity in the fields to get the PL or DPL designation. If only one side has reflectivity and the other not, then it will not be attributed. In the case of Morgan dollars, say, this can happen when different die pairs were married to finish producing the run. I own a few Morgans where one side is quite reflective and the other side is normal mint luster.

These all appear to be genuine, but I agree with Sandon here as the 1921 looks cleaned, and the 1924 looks improperly cleaned. The 1922 is quite common in this series and there are hundreds of examples with blast white color and really nice eye appeal but with the bag marks, a scratch and rim dings I can see on yours might only get it UNC Details grade.

The 1884 CC might be a VAM-2 which is an 1884 18/18 CC. It looks like it may have the lines at the base of the numerals which is shown in the photo below from the NGC VarietyPlus page.

NGC might (maybe, possibly) attribute it as a Struck Through error being it is not really "too minor", BUT being the coin it is and the relative amount of wear on it, it would be cost prohibitive to submit it as even under best circumstances with two bidders at an auction going head to head at it, the final sale would definitely not cover the cost to submit it. Even at MS 67 FT (which your dime is not even close to that grade) the dime is price guide value of $35. The dime cannot be given FT designation because the lower part of the torch was also affected, and mint errors are graded based upon the portion of the coin unaffected by the error. There is no way you would recoup your grading costs. Even with an error designation, you might only get $10-$15 in a slab from a hardcore Roosy collector as the coin sits.

No offense taken Sandon. Then my mistake was that they started the digital imaging of the obverse and reverse of every coin submitted starting in 2008 then, no?

Your 1886 might get an MS 61 or maybe MS 62. Your 1889 CC is another fake from probably the same dies used in your other post with the 4 counterfeits as it has the same characteristic weak TY in LIBERTY. Your 1893 is also a counterfeit being most of the numerals are misshapen.

The 1892 S about punched me dead in the face as far as a counterfeit goes. I am even questioning the 1886 as the rim and denticles just don't look right to me. It could just be the photo but it looks out of round as well. Being this is the same OP who posted 4 Morgans the other day that were all counterfeit, I don't think he is off to a good start.

If I am not mistaken, NGC didn't start fully digital imaging both sides of submitted coins until 2008. Before that, I am not sure they even had a database for the verification function. If the coin is an early submission starting in the 1XXXXXXX, or 2XXXXXXX there probably was no information recorded on it.

For the benefit of testing our grading skills, please return and let us know how it comes back.

Clockwise from the top left, the hair and TY in LIBERTY are completely washed out and there should be some detail in those areas considering the rest of the coin. 1894 has G6 rims on the obverse of an otherwise VF+ condition as well as issues with the reverse wreath and eagle details, the lower two 1889's have misshapen dates as well as the same characteristic of the TY in LIBERTY. These coins cannot be genuine.