Oldhoopster

A missing mint mark on a proof die = significant. Die crack on a proof coin = meh. Granted, minor errors like die cracks are much scarcer on proof issues because of the slow throughput and increased opportunity for detection, and It probably warrants a modest premium, trying to compare the desirability to a missing mm doesn't cut it. FWIW, I do like your coin.

Are you serious? You don't have books? No references? No nothing? You must either have one heck of an extensive and highly organized set of internet bookmarks or have an absolute miserable time trying to do any research. I probably open a book every time I look at a coin. Oh well, to each us own

Is the resolution of your scale 1 gram, 0.1 grams, or 0.01 grams. Assuming the balance is level and calibrated, If you only have 1 gram resolution, your coin could weigh anywhere between 2.5 and 3.4 grams. With 0.1 resolution, it could weigh any where between 2.95 and 3.04 grams. 0.01 = 2.995 to 3.005 grams. Significant figures are important (as emphasized by my freshman chemistry professor Dr Bentz) @Woods020 already posted the tolerance.

No I didn't look it up, but you may need MS67 and more likely MS68 or higher, to have a chance of making it worth more than the grading fees. Now, notice the marks on your coin. Ding on the rim above the G in GOD, ding behind Lincolns shoulder, ding on the pillars, a couple scratches and marks under the memorial, ding under the C. And that's just what I can quickly see from a pic that was taken from an angle. In circulated rolls of Lincoln Memorial cents are readily available and consequently the majority have very little value. However, your cent would make a nice addition to an album set. You should check out some if the pics on auction sites of MS68 and higher cents to get an idea of what is required to meet these grades.

The valuable cent in the reference was made from aluminum. You have a normal copper 1974-D cent.

You think those European Mints would employ someone who could speak English. You have Deutschland, Osterreich, Norge, Belgique, Espana, and Nederlanden to name a few. Geez people, it's simple English for crying out loud.

Where did you get the coin? Can You trace it back to Adams, Merkin, or one of the early sales? Did it come frm a high ranking mint employee or someone who was working on mint product development in 1964? If it just came from a mint set or other source, then you're probably out of luck. IMO, This is another gray area. Are these truly SMS strikes as touted during their discovery in the late 80s, or are they nothing more than first strike coins. More research is needed, but until then, provenance is as important as die markers.

One can never have enough coin books

It's from Great Britain, not Australia. Looks like it's been cleaned, otherwise ok shape. It's a common date, so not worth much. You can look it up at https://en.numista.com/catalogue/index.php?ct=coin

Struck from a very worn die. Go to www.doubleddie.com and click on the "worthless doubling" tab for a good explanation of this type of non-value added doubling

Looks more like die deterioration doubling to me.

I believe it's just some type of random die damage. Maybe it was hit with a tool or something. I don't believe it's a die chip (too uniform), nor do I believe it was intentional. if it was some type of intentional mark, I would expect it to be centered around something, not just a random location. Just my thoughts.

Your coin has suffered significant environmental damage after it left the mint. I don't see any doubling on the reverse. Anything your seeing us almost certainly due to the damage, not a minting error.

Then you also have a coin that was damaged after it left the mint.

Sorry, but it's only environmental damage. Not an error of any kind.

Just a few random comments * I think many find the term "newbie" pejorative and want to avoid being categorized as such. I have another collecting interest and I definitely fall into the newbie category, but I hate that label. It sounds like something you would call a child that has just joined a group, not an adult who is trying to learn a subject. I try to use the term "New Collector". It's factual and doesn't have any condescending connotation as far as I can tell. * Sometimes I think that the argumentative new members don't understand the amount of experience and knowledge that many members possess. It seems like they think we're the equivalent of the guy at the end of the bar. All is well if you you agree with the OP, but if you don't, the OP assumes you don't know any more than they do. In the pre internet days, when you had to show your coin to someone in person, you could get a feeling for the persons knowledge and confidence by their mannerisms, responds, confidence, etc. That gets lost on the net. * Another thing that annoys me (although it doesn't seem to happen that often) is the new collector who makes multiple posts asking " is this an error - is it valuable - should I get it graded". No problem with asking once, but multiple different coins, after they've been given links to resources or Redbook recommendations to do a little prescreening is just lazy. To me, this is the equivalent of holding out a handful of pocket change and asking "Is anything valuable? I don't want to waste my time doing any research. Just give me an answer" * I hate long, rambling posts that could make an equivalent point with only 20% of the words - Oh wait....

The mint stopped punching mint marks into individual dies in 1989, so it isn't a RPM. Looks more like die deterioration

I think its the same as it's always been, except today, it's much easier to get a question in front of a lot of eyeballs, and do it anonymously. Remember how hard it was getting numismatic info in the past. You had to make a conscience effort to find somebody who knew something, whether a LCS, show, or club. Then you had to physically show it to someone and listen to their response. Effort was involved. Now, you can surf the net while drinking an Iron City beer and watching the Kardashian's and quickly find a lot of info. Some of it good and some junk. Stumble onto a site like this, snap a quick pic with your phone, and you're in business. No leaving the house, no having to search for somebody who might know coins, no having to stand face to face with someone telling you your coin is damaged. Also, if you pay attention to the "got these coins from grandpa's estate" questions, you'll occasionally see PMD in those groups. Apparently, people were accumulating junk back then, but just stored things away if they couldn't find any information Just my thoughts

The following site is very helpful if you want to attribute VAMs http://www.vamworld.com

Sooner or later, the TV ads will hit from some questionable outfit like the govmint "Layered in genuine 24 karat gold". "We'll send a second coin for free, just pay a separate handling charge". " A proud heirloom to pass down for generations." Cue in to a scene of an old man sitting with his grandchild looking at their new family treasure.

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I agree with some of the other posts, if you didn't receive what you paid for, send it back. That being said, if the questionable area was described by the seller or visible in the sellers pics, or you got it at a discount, then you're stuck with it, IMO. However, if you paid a fair retail price, then you should receive an accurately graded coin. So what if it turned in the holder. That's not your problem. A simple explanation saying that the reverse spot wasn't visible in the sellers photo and/or it wasn't properly described should be enough. The key is to notify the seller in a timely manner. You shouldn't have to eat somebody else's problems if you didn't know about it in advance Just my opinion

I also believe the OPs coin is a minor clip (incomplete planchet). The edge appears to show the punch and tear characteristics, and there doesn't look like any evidence of cutting, filing, or grinding.

The mint doesn't use "watermarks" or other devices that are used on paper money. The following link shows how dies are made. Www.doubleddie.com/58201.html https://www.doubleddie.com From the link If it was necessary to have a mint mark on the coins to identify the Mint at which the coins were being produced, the mint mark was the final part of the design added to the working die. A die maker at the Mint used a thin steel rod (punch) that had the appropriate mint mark letter engraved at the one end. Holding the mint mark punch in the appropriate position on the working die he tapped the mint mark punch with a mallet to leave an impression of the mint mark on the working die. It frequently required more than one tap with the mallet to leave a satisfactory impression of the mint mark on the die, and the die maker would repeat the taps with the mallet until the mint mark impression was deemed satisfactory. The old picture also from www.doubleddie.com shows a mint engraver punching the mm into a die. Engraving is a skilled trade and it would be almost impossible for him to put a mm so far away from the required area. Almost like have a professional roofer mistakenly putting shingles on the side of your house instead of the roof Many members who have answered your post are very knowledgeable of the minting and die making process. They are telling you that your coin could not have left the mint like that. They aren't guessing or speculating, they are offering you accurate info based on years of study and experience.