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  1. There are no 1947 OMMs listed on www.doubleddie.com or www.varietyvista.com I think whatever you see is either an artifact from a worn die (looks like there may be radial flow lines) or some light corrosion along with the usual circulation wear and tear.
  2. Although I don't actively roll search, I always take a quick look at my change. I usually save any minor error I find and put it in a 2x2 UNLESS it has significant damage. I like my collection but most are only worth face value. Occasionally, I've used them to do educational presentations at coin clubs or show other collectors. Keep or spend? It's up to you. I think it's fun to have them as a little collection, but they are no more valuable than a jar of loose change waiting to go to the coin star machine. No wrong answer IMO
  3. Usually, finding errors isn't easy, and most of the ones you do find will be minor. The problem is that minor errors (die chips, die cracks, filled dies) are rarely worth more than face. Finding something that will actually sell for a couple bucks is uncommon. To answer your question, it's not worth the effort to sell this stuff over the internet (even if you find abuyer, you won't come close to breaking even) and dealers have no interest. It's equivalent to selling a single wheat cent in circulated condition. If you're looking for errors to make money, don't bother. Occasionally, people get lucky, but occasionally, people win the lottery. If it was easy to get rich, I'd be sitting on a Caribbean beach sipping rum drinks with tiny umbrellas instead of drinking a coors light watching Monday night football on TV
  4. Debris filled die (commonly called grease filled die) error. Maybe worth a buck plus/minus, but it might be challenging finding a buyer
  5. Nickels are made from a solid alloy (75%Cu 25%Ni). There are no clad layers
  6. Your coin was struck with a very worn reverse die. Not an error
  7. It's either die deterioration doubling (my thought) or mechanical doubling. Both are very common and neither are considered errors by most collectors. If you try to learn the difference between true doubled dies (the die was made incorrectly) and these very common forms of worthless "doubling", it will save you a lot of time and frustration. Here is a link with some good info https://www.doubleddie.com/144801.html
  8. You stated that it's a DDO, but it's nearly impossible to tell from your pics. The following sites have an extensive lists of doubled dies. Did you check to see if yours is an exact match to any of them? (BTW, since doubled dies are due to a mistake in the die manufacturing process, all coins struck from those dies will have the same characteristics. Close=You don't have it) Www.doubleddie.com Www.varietyvista.com Let us know which one you have
  9. No notching or split serifs, no widening, flat appearance. Nothing matches the characteristics of hub doubling. It looks like Die Deterioration, but I tend to lump DDD and MD into the same, "worthless" doubling bucket. I realize that they're caused by different mechanisms but IMO, I don't see the need to spend much effort differentiating between the two. Just my opinion
  10. @Tridmn This is getting a little confusing, so help me to understand. In your original post, you specifically said the 2 coins pictured were different. Now you said they are the same coin. Which is it?
  11. Never say "I can't explain how this damage occurred, therefore it must be an error". An error or variety can always be explained in terms of the minting and die making process. What part of the Minting process would leave those marks? Answer=None. Do you have any potential explanations? Collar defect? Not looking like that. Do you think a punching artifact would survive both the upset mill AND expanding into the collar during striking? I can't see it happening. The metal is subjected to pressures and deformation during those steps that would "erase" those marks. There are many, many, many ways for a coin to be damaged. If you're going to search for errors, you really need to study and understand the minting process. Here are some links to get you started https://www.coinnews.net/2014/01/06/how-the-denver-mint-makes-dies-to-produce-coins/
  12. Look at your bottom combo pic. Notice how the doubled die on the left is rounded and full. Now look at yours. It's flat. Flat and shelf-like=mechanical doubling. Take some time to review the characteristics of hub doubling https://www.doubleddie.com/58222.html Here are the characteristics of worthless doubling https://www.doubleddie.com/144801.html
  13. Agree with the damage comments. More than likely, what you see on the edge is due to contact marks from tumbling and banging into something hard. I don't think it's an artifact from punching the blanks. The upset mill process would eliminate most/all of any surface variability on the edge, IMO. Regardless of the cause, it's just PMD.
  14. I think you may be confused with the terminology A business strike normally refers to a coin struck for commerce. This is what you get from the bank or in change at the store. The mint made over 2.6 BILLION business strike cents in 1964. Special Mint Sets (SMS) were made for sale to collectors in 1965-67. They were made using a different process than business strikes. No proof sets were made in those years. No 1964 SMS were authorized. There is even some disagreement among numismatic researchers and collectors as to whether they truly are SMS or just struck from new dies (look through the post archives for the back story. Too much to explain and it may open a can of worms). Regardless of what the click bait, you tube hacks say, you aren't going to find a 64SMS coin in circulation