Oldhoopster

Using a nickel for scale calibration isn't really a good idea because the actual spec range is 4.81 - 5.19 grams as noted by @Greenstang. Most will be around 5.0 grams but not all. You can always weigh a few nickels to see if your scale MIGHT be having a problem, but using it for calibration is sketchy at best. It looks like you got that info from a website. I would be very cautious about using that site for information in the future Edit to add: I suppose the information you posted would be somewhat correct if your scale only had a 1 gram resolution (they said 5 grams, not 5.0 or 5.00). But that type of scale would be useless for numismatics.

......that I am an easy-going spirit one needn't pay any mind to. 😉 My only concern is that a new collector would pay attention to your post and think they might have something rare and valuable. Do they believe Coinbuf telling them it's damage or you whose posts makes it seem like they might have something special? Ok, maybe a little overreaction on my part

NO You've been on this site for a while and should have a basic understanding of the minting and die making process (if you dont, you should have spent more time looking at the links and less time wordsmithing your posts ). How could a die be made for this to occur? It can't. Here are some links (posted previously) to help you understand the minting and die making process if you need a little refresher https://www.coinnews.net/2014/01/06/how-the-denver-mint-makes-dies-to-produce-coins/ https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=104&v=mqPvKxJXC_Y&feature=emb_title @Cecelia R. Valverde it's old glue/tape/adhesive residue as @Coinbuf has mentioned. It's not any error of any kind

Color is not a reliable method to determine the composition of a copper coin, especially if its worn. Copper is a very reactive metal. Yours looks like it's stained and suffered environmental damage. You could always get it checked with a handheld XRF, but I'm not sure how well those a calibrated to measure elements less than a few %. IMO, it's not worth the effort for this coin. Regarding the lower weight: Your coin is worn and damaged. Since you don't know the original weight of the planchet (spec = 3.11 +/- 0.13 grams), It's nearly impossible to figure out how much weight was lost to wear and how much to damage. BTW: I recommend @RWB book "From mine to mint". Wish it would have been around when I started collecting in the 70s. Back then, information on the minting process (current and historical) was scarce and very difficult to find

Did you check to see if there is an EXACT match at www.doubleddie.com or www.varietyvista.com? Both have a comprehensive list of RPMs? They also show die markers for some RPMs Not interested in playing guessing games. Go to those sites, tell us which one you think you have, and members can offer confirmation.

Yes. Feeder finger scrapes on the die. Debris adhered to the die when coins 2 and 3 were struck. My guess is that some of the debris became dislodged between the time coin 3 was struck and Coin 2

Fred Weinberg shared a good tip. Look at the edge. If the edge is discolored, then it's environmental damage. If it looks like a normal coin, then misannealing is a possibility. A couple caveats, it works best for reeded coins and newly struck issues. The explanation is that the atmospheric reaction in the annealing furnace is a surface phenomenon. When the planchet is struck, it expands to fill the collar. Then, as it's ejected from the die, the edge surface rubs/abrades against the collar. This wears off the discolored surface. So check the edge

It looks too blotchy and uneven to be misannealed, IMO. Remember, misannealed errors are caused by an incorrect atmosphere in the annealing furnace. I would expect the wrong atmosphere (reducing or oxidizing) to react with all of the planchet surfaces and not leave significant color variations. Just my thoughts.

Go to the following sites to look for an EXACT match. If you're looking for doubled dies, you should have these bookmarked and they should be your first stop. Www.varietyvista.com. (as recommended above) Www.doubleddie.com FWIW looks like minor MD to me

You may want to check and recalibrate your scale then reweigh it. I also see signs of what a appears to be zinc rot which would mean it's struck on a normal planchet. If you did get lucky and beat the lotto sized odds, it would still need to be authenticated by a third party service like NGC. You will still have to pay even if it turns out its zinc, so it's best to be certain of the weight and characteristics.

When I regularly attended shows, it wasn't uncommon for a dealer to ask if I had anything to sell, especially if traffic was slow. Just be prepared to have a good, non-insulting answer when they pull out a handful of wheaties and low grade buffs from the 30s But if you don't ask, you never know. Try it on the tire kickers and "just looking" crowd. Maybe the person has a small inheritance but may be unsure how to approach dealers (coin shows can be intimidating to non-collectors).

Minor filled die error. Worth putting in a 2x2 IMO, but not it doesn't add any value

Other than mint marks prior to 1989, NO letters or devices are individually punched into working dies. The main devices, letters, and mottos can all be found on the Master Hub The master hub is used to make Master dies Master dies make Working Hubs Working Hubs make Working Dies Working dies strike coins It really doesn't matter what caused the M to look different, the simple answer is it can't be an N. That's not how the die making process works.

You can find many overlays on http://www.maddieclashes.com/denominational-overlays/

It's environmental damage. The alloy of the outer clad layers are 75% copper 25% nickel. Coins that have been exposed to the elements or found on/in the ground can have this appearance. Also, if it was missing one or both clad layers, wouldn't you expect it to thinner and lighter than a regular quarter? You can prove it to yourself by comparing the thickness to a regular quarter. You can also weigh it. The standard for a quarter is 5.67 grams +/- 0.227 gms

There are no 1947 OMMs listed on www.doubleddie.com or www.varietyvista.com I think whatever you see is either an artifact from a worn die (looks like there may be radial flow lines) or some light corrosion along with the usual circulation wear and tear.

Although I don't actively roll search, I always take a quick look at my change. I usually save any minor error I find and put it in a 2x2 UNLESS it has significant damage. I like my collection but most are only worth face value. Occasionally, I've used them to do educational presentations at coin clubs or show other collectors. Keep or spend? It's up to you. I think it's fun to have them as a little collection, but they are no more valuable than a jar of loose change waiting to go to the coin star machine. No wrong answer IMO

Usually, finding errors isn't easy, and most of the ones you do find will be minor. The problem is that minor errors (die chips, die cracks, filled dies) are rarely worth more than face. Finding something that will actually sell for a couple bucks is uncommon. To answer your question, it's not worth the effort to sell this stuff over the internet (even if you find abuyer, you won't come close to breaking even) and dealers have no interest. It's equivalent to selling a single wheat cent in circulated condition. If you're looking for errors to make money, don't bother. Occasionally, people get lucky, but occasionally, people win the lottery. If it was easy to get rich, I'd be sitting on a Caribbean beach sipping rum drinks with tiny umbrellas instead of drinking a coors light watching Monday night football on TV

Debris filled die (commonly called grease filled die) error. Maybe worth a buck plus/minus, but it might be challenging finding a buyer

Nickels are made from a solid alloy (75%Cu 25%Ni). There are no clad layers

Your coin was struck with a very worn reverse die. Not an error

It's either die deterioration doubling (my thought) or mechanical doubling. Both are very common and neither are considered errors by most collectors. If you try to learn the difference between true doubled dies (the die was made incorrectly) and these very common forms of worthless "doubling", it will save you a lot of time and frustration. Here is a link with some good info https://www.doubleddie.com/144801.html

You stated that it's a DDO, but it's nearly impossible to tell from your pics. The following sites have an extensive lists of doubled dies. Did you check to see if yours is an exact match to any of them? (BTW, since doubled dies are due to a mistake in the die manufacturing process, all coins struck from those dies will have the same characteristics. Close=You don't have it) Www.doubleddie.com Www.varietyvista.com Let us know which one you have

No notching or split serifs, no widening, flat appearance. Nothing matches the characteristics of hub doubling. It looks like Die Deterioration, but I tend to lump DDD and MD into the same, "worthless" doubling bucket. I realize that they're caused by different mechanisms but IMO, I don't see the need to spend much effort differentiating between the two. Just my opinion

@Tridmn This is getting a little confusing, so help me to understand. In your original post, you specifically said the 2 coins pictured were different. Now you said they are the same coin. Which is it?