Oldhoopster

NEVER assume your coin is an error if you can't explain the cause of the damage. All errors/varieties are a result of the minting or die making process, and subsequently can be explained as such. Your coin could not have been produced at the mint and it absolutely did not leave the mint in that condition. Some of the members who have responded to this thread have been collecting for decades and are very knowledgeable of the minting process.

One of the tricks is to learn as much as you can about the minting and die making processes. With some experience, it's pretty easy to know that this couldn't occur at the mint. And if it didn't occur at the mint, it's damage, regardless of the cause If your interested and looking for info, here are some links for starters https://www.coinnews.net/2014/01/06/how-the-denver-mint-makes-dies-to-produce-coins/

They're newbies, that's why they ask basic questions. If you're new and start to do some research on the the net, you're going to get overwhelmed by all of the junk and misinformation from the "get rich from pockets change" hucksters that are everywhere. Why not come here and ask a reasonable question. How would you you suggest that a new collector learn? Any advice on helping them find and sort through the good info from junk on the internet?

I haven't done the pricing differences between ANACS and the top 2 for your coin, but assuming it would grade the same, your probably leaving money on the table if you want to sell. The market has already built potential over grading into the prices. Saving a few bucks by using ANACS my be penny wise but pound foolish Regardless, what you do is your choice and as long as you're aware of the potential downside and happy with your decision, no problem.

Scroll through error-ref enough times and you begin to remember a lot of the pics ("you know, I saw something like that before"). However, it did take a little effort to find it again.

I'm not sure of this offers an explanation, but it's something I found on error-ref. Maybe something to consider https://www.error-ref.com/design-berms/

No question that it's been exposed to an acidic solution. What does your expert mean by wrong planchet? The US mint only used copper planchets for cents. A dime planchet would be clad, not copper

I remember shelling out $15 to Bowers and Ruddy for the gold collection catalog while in high school. I actually read through all the listings when it arrived. As a bonus, B&R kept sending me catalogs which made my feel important. The catalog still resides in my library

There isn't a place to "register" new varieties. You'll want to start by getting the varieties published in the numismatic periodicals or specialized club newsletters. and then included in standard references for the subject field if possible. It would also help if they were recognized by subject experts. If that generates enough interest in the varieties, the TPGs may decide that they will recognize them It would also help if you have documentation from the country's mint indicating that they did make different varieties. Makes it a lot easier.

Sorry, but your coin is damaged. It did not leave the mint in that condition

As others have said, Littleton charges very, very high retail prices. However, they are accurate with their grading of circulated coins. That doesn't include their "average circulated" coins which can be all over the place.

Plating issues. Not an error

Can't see any hub doubling in those pics. You need to show evidence of split serifs/notching, and thickening. Non value added mechanical doubling is much more common. Here are comprehensive listings if true doubled dies. Look to find an EXACT match Www.doubleddie.com Www.varietyvista.com

Chrysler Newport. It was a boat and a half. My mom ended up with the car in the early 80s. I would switch between my car (1969 Triumph Spitfire) and the Newport which could have fit the Spitfire in the trunk. A few years later I occasionally got to drive a tri-axle coal truck and driving the Newport was good experience

@Dang vang These arent some guys sitting at the end of the bar. You received correct answers from some very knowledgeable collectors with decades of experience. One also happens to be a renowned numismatic researcher and author whose books have one won numerous awards. You can continue to question the info if you like, but you're getting correct and accurate answers. If you disagree, feel free to send your coin in for grading. That would be a waste of $50-60 IMO, but you seem to have already made up your mind. Best of luck with the hobby

You'll find coins like this in 4/$1 (or similar priced) junk boxes at many coin shops

No. Mechanical doubling.

Everything is relative. I remember when my grandfather bought a new Chrysler in 1973. It was $4000 and he was complaining that was how much he paid for his house in 1936.

You're asking great questions. Many are learning from the answers IMO, even if 1 person learns something, it's a good question

If it has to be Irish, you're basically stuck with the 20p. The older half crown has the same design, but some are silver and cost more. There also are animals on the other pence coins of the time period

Not a doubled die.

I agree with @jkk. Your coin was damaged by corrosion and then cleaned. It is not an error

Technically, I agree about chops being PMD, but they do have a dedicated collector base and literature. It's not my area of interest, but IMO, I have no problem with chop marks being a collectable topic and being discussed on hobby forums

Copper is a very reactive metal and can change to a number of different colors depending on the environmental exposure. Brown, black, red, green, and even blue. There's nothing unusual about the colors of your coins

“Twas brillig, and the slithy toves Did gyre and gimble in the wabe; All mimsy were the borogoves, And the mome raths outgrabe.” ― Lewis Carroll, Jabberwocky and Other Poems Translation = PMD. Vise job