Oldhoopster

The 3rd post of this thread has side by side pics of the small and lg dates. IMO, comparing the 2 is the easiest way to tell. Also compare the 8

I've read that a good rule of thumb is to avoid getting A coin graded that sells for less than $100-$150. Don't forget that it normally costs approx $50 +/- to get an individual coin graded, so it may not be wise to send in a low value or cleaned/damaged coin. Just my opinion

Or the copper plating was removed after it left the mint, leaving the zinc core exposed

There are a multitude of ways a coin can Become damaged after it leaves the mint, but only a limited number of ways an error can occur during the minting process. A planchet enters the die chamber and is struck by the dies. A collar is used to keep the coin at the correct diameter and form the reeding on dimes, quarters and halves. It is impossible for an in spec planchet to have a smaller diameter, thicker edge, and complete but distorted lettering next to the rim. Can't happen, so that's why it's easy to tell its not a mint error. As to what caused the damage? Who knows? A dryer coin has some characteristics that are similar, but maybe it was something else. Unless you were there when it happened, you may never know. But if you take the time and learn the minting process, you'll know that it didn't leave the mint like that Here is a site to get you started https://www.usmint.gov/news/inside-the-mint/how-coins-are-made-coin-production-terminology Here is a good explanation of a dryer coin. Make sure you click on they link listed at the end of the explanation. http://www.error-ref.com/?s=Dryer+coin Hope this helps

As @Equalibrium said, you have a 1982-D LARGE date copper. In circulated condition, it's worth face value

Sorry, but your coin has environmental damage and is severely corrided. It didn't leave the mint like that and is not an error of any kind

I believe these are roller marks, not an improperly mixed alloy. These come from the ingot rolling process and leave regularly spaced, parallel lines. The woody cents are due to compositional variations in the original ingot. They are more irregular than the lines on your coin. It seems the evenly spaced roller marks are found on 1980 and 1981 cents.

It's very easy to determine if it's copper or zinc by getting an accurate weight. The pics aren't great, but the surfaces look like it's zinc and worth face value. If you still think you have something, getting the weight is the next step

Until 1989, mint marks were punched into individual dies by hand, so the placement can vary. While the S is close to the date, it's not considered anything special

Are you saying saying that the thermal expansion of copper would change the shape and size of the digits to the point where you could visually see the difference?

It's a clipped planchet. It clearly shows the Blakesley effect

It's definitely worth preserving in a 2x2, non-PVC flip, or other type of holder

In reality, finding valuable coins in pocket change is very unlikely, contrary to what some of the YouTube hacks say. Does it happen? Yes, but people win the lottery too. Occasionally you may find a silver coin, but that is pretty rare. Its like any other hobby, the more knowledge you have, the more likely you are to find something. You can't expect to consistently make money as a day trader in the stock market, or flipping houses if you don't have the knowledge. Coins are no different. You can still find collectable coins in circulation. Looking for different dates and mint marks is a time honored tradition in coin collecting. You won't get rich, but it can be fun and you'll learn about numismatics and history as you go.

I'm not seeing anything on your pics. Maybe there is some die deterioration doubling, which is common and doesn't add any value. There is a big difference between a doubled die that occurred during the die making process, and DDD due to a worn die, or MD caused by a loose die in the press. Wexler has a good explanation on his site. https://www.doubleddie.com/144801.html

Sorry, but your coin suffered environmental damage. It looks like a coin that has spent some time in the ground. Regardless of what caused the damage, it didnt leave the mint looking like that.

As others have said, your coin was plated after if left the mint and is not an error Here are the instructions for one type of plating you can do yourself https://www.thoughtco.com/gold-and-silver-pennies-605971

What are you waiting for? Send it in to be authenticated. Then not only will you be rich, you'll have the last laugh here. However, if you aren't confident with your numismatic acumen, I can see why you would keep posting pics of these ultra rarities hoping some knowledgeable numismatist would agree with you. Best of luck on your collecting endeavours.

I think @Insider holds up his fingers for the first digit and his toes for the second digit of the grade for the finalizers to confirm. As for Sheldon numbers.. they must use the daily lottery number

High school and college can only use the digits 0-5 i,e, 1,2 3,4 ,5, 10, 11, 12, 13....54, 55. That equals 35 choices (I think 0 was approved for use recently). When the referee calls a foul he signals the number to the scorers table by holding up his fingers. One hand is for the 1st digit and the other hand is for the second digit. I think they also hold one hand palm towards they scorer and one hand back to they scorer. All this is in case the scorer can't here hear the ref calling out the number if the place is noisy. My son's college team usually has between 15-20 kids on the team, so there aren't too many extra numbers, plus they don't have a uniform with every number. (My avatar is a pic of my son) When I played in HS years ago, all of the local schools wore light colored home uniforms with even numbers and dark colored with odd numbers for away games, so I was 40 and 41. That effectively meant only 17 numbers could be used for a game. Plus, the uniforms are used for multiple years and they need different sizes. My HS uniforms 1-15 - small; 20-35 medium; 40-45 Large; and 50-55 XL (that's why a lot of centers wore high numbers and guards wore low numbers) I guess that's more useless info regarding basketball uniform numbers than anybody wants to know

Sorry, but your coin did not leave the mint like that and is not an error of any kind. @Just Bob provided a good explanation

I have not been buying too much over the last few years. I’ve added some Early commems that I find historically interesting, a couple to my Colonial type set (the kids will soon be out of college so A New England silver may be within reach), and started a Charlotte/Dahlonega Type set. Other current interests include German Metal and Porcelain Notgeld, and Germany 1873-1945, Ireland/Australia/New Zeeland Pre-decimal sets in circulated grades (i.e., cheap). At various times, I’ve been interested in US series from early copper to Morgans and still am a member of the CWTS. I’ve also dabbled in ancients and medieval, although my reference books are probably worth more than the coins (I have a bad habit of buying expensive books to ID cheap coins). Coming up on 40 years in the ANA, have held offices in local coin clubs, and have written a few articles for club newsletters.

Sorry, I may not have been clear. I didn't get bounced, but some members that I used to follow (who had been dismissed for what I thought were questionable infractions) post here. I enjoyed their numismatic scholarship and willingness to share interesting info. IMO, that void was never filled when they were shown the door, so maybe I can find some of that here. No matter how long I've been in the hobby, I'm still trying to learn new stuff.

I joined this site 3 ½ years ago but never bothered to post. I’m on a few other coin forums and recently read that some who received the “Red Avatar of Shame” and were banished now post here, so I figured I would see what’s happening. I already see some users that I recognize from elsewhere Best Regards Oldhoopster