Oldhoopster

Agree with the last line of @l.cutler's post. The more you learn about coins and the minting process, the easier it will to find things and you'll waste less time on damaged coins. That being said, finding valuable coins in change is rare. Just like the scratch off tickets, there are lots of losers, a few very minor layoffs and very, very few winners. I'm not being rude, but if you only are in this to make money, you'll probably do better collecting cans along the side of the road. If it was easy to make a fortune searching pocket change, most of us would be sitting on a beach in Caribbean by now Assuming you have a little experience, here are some sites to look at Www.error-ref.com Www.varietyvista.com Www.Doubleddie.com Here is a site that explains how coins are made. https://www.usmint.gov/news/inside-the-mint/how-coins-are-made-coin-production-terminology

It looks like the obverse die was polished at some point, resulting in some weak areas inc the mm. There is also weakness in the jacket, neck, and pony tail. IMO, I think it's a cool find. Too bad it has some environmental damage I think the Rev may be a minor debris filled die.

Filled D mintmarks aren't unusual on coins from the 70's. The inside post was very small and had a tendency to break off. Save it if you find it interesting, but it would be very difficult to find somebody who would offer more than 25 cents for it. I don't see any indication of doubling

I’m thinking about selling 2% shares in a roll of wheat pennies. The asset will be stored in a secure location in my sock drawer. Thinking about an IPO of around $1/share (that includes commissions) . Any interest?

I need to remember that when reading some of the posts by @Quintus Arrius (sorry, couldn't resist)

I hope the reputable ANA dealer didn't sell the 1st coin as a 3 legged variety. It's just a normal 1937 buffalo. I think albums specify a 1937-D, not a 1937, so you won't be in compliance

Possible but not very likely. A 40% silver 1967 half is made from 80% silver 20% copper outer layers clad to a 21.5% silver 78.5% copper core. Sometimes, the core can tone to a similar color as the outer layers and appear to be a solid alloy. Weighing it on an accurate scale should tell you. A 90% planchet should weigh 12.50 grams +/- 0.259 gms, while a 40% planchet should be 11.50 +/- 0.40 grams.

Your coin isn't a 3/2. Some 1943 nickels have a small die break/gouge that makes it look like a 3/2. Look at the lower inner part of the 3 on the authentic example you posted. You can see the flat of the 2. Also compare the "hook" The 3/2 needs to match exactly.

Somebody needs to tell the mint https://www.usmint.gov/coins/coin-medal-programs/circulating-coins/penny FWIW, I agree that the correct term is CENT and as numismatists, we should use the correct terminology. A doctor doesn't say "We need to shove this thing up your butt" when you go in for a colonoscopy.

It looks like a stain from some type of environmental damage.

That was the plan

Are you trying to get the entertainment gig at the ANA convention dinner?

I’m guessing the poster you’re referencing is a non-native speaker and is using a translation program (I would be terrified to post on a foreign language site in something other than English). It may be best to respond with simple sentences that can be understood or translated easily. Long, roundabout, difficult to follow, response will probably get lost in translation and be of no value, IMO I'll try to translate @Quintus Arrius post so @AlexCaffr might be able to understand. It is very difficult to determine the date of a coin using analytical testing.

@Bruce Catzbased on your recent posts, you seem to have a solid interest in the hobby. I'd like to suggest you buy a copy of A Guide Book of United States Coins. Its published yearly by Whitman and is referred to as the Redbook. While the pricing guide can be a little inaccurate, you can easily which dates are common and which are better. The best part is that it's filled with lots of information. Mintages, weights, compositions, mint mark locations, a little history, and even a very basic grading guide. I would be willing to bet that nearly every experienced collector on this site had one sometime early in their collecting career. It will be the best $10-15 you'll spend on the hobby. It's an easy way to pick up a lot of knowkedge

Did you check these sites for matches? Www.doubleddie.com Www.varietyvista.com

Sorry, no split serif Look at the listed doubled dies on the following sites to get a better feel for them Www.doubleddie.com Www.varietyvista.com

I believe these are roller marks, not an improperly mixed alloy. These come from the strip rolling process. Dirty or oily rollers can leave residue on the alloy strip, which will tone over time as regularly spaced, parallel lines. The woody cents are due to compositional variations in the original ingot. The inhomogeneities In the melt take on random shapes as the alloy cools. These regions get elongated during the rolling process but the likelihood of them having consistent thicknesses and spacing is very unlikely I've seen a few examples of evenly spaced roller marks on 1980 and 1981 cents posted on the numismatic forums over the years.

Ask the question another way - how could this occur during the minting process. It can't be a planchet error because the tons of striking pressure wouldn't leave a rough surface. How could a die be damaged to such an extent that the surfaces leave that appearance on a struck coin? Maybe it's acid, maybe it's environmental, maybe it's something else. In the end, it doesn't really matter what caused the damage, the coin didn't leave the mint in that condition.

Your coin isn't a brockage or counterbrockage

It looks like die deterioration doubling to me. I don't see any split serifs. Dies for the 2016-D dimes were made by the single squeeze process. The following is an explanation of class IX doubling http://www.error-ref.com/doubled-dies/#:~:text=class ix – shifted hub doubling%3A “This form,and its thousands of pounds of force.” ¹

Sorry, but its nothing more than damage. There is no extra face. The coin did not leave the mint looking like that

It's a vise job. Sandwich some coins and squeeze them in a vise or hit them with a hammer. Not an error if any kind. Sorry

Some cents minted in 1982 were copper and some were copper plated zinc. The weight of your coin indicates it was a copper plated zinc issue. The copper plating is approx 8 microns thick. Somebody removed the copper plating after your coin left the mint as @bsshog40 said. Sorry but it's a damaged coin, not an error

They are Canadian, but the dates are worn off. You can figure out the denomination by comparing it US coins.

Its damage from the crimping step of a coin rolling machine.