Oldhoopster

I originally interpreted your question as "I don't understand how this damage could occur, so I still think it's an error". Thanks for the clarification.

The characteristics of this type of deformation have been posted numerous times upon many coin forums. While I have never performed the actual experiment, the explanation makes a lot of sense. The coins have a larger diameter than a normal cent and appear to be missing the copper plating. If you believe this isn't post mint damage, why don't you propose a theory on what part of the minting process could produce such an error. If you do agree that it's damaged but think it was caused by some other method, that's ok. Since there are so many ways for damage to occur, I tend to avoid debates on what caused the damage. IMO, as long as I'm convinced it couldn't occur at the mint, it doesn't really matter what caused the damage. Maybe you could try to make one and add to the body of knowledge. It would make a great post.

As others have said, your coin was damaged after it left the mint. It wasn't struck on a feeder finger (easy to confirm by weight and composition), nor struck through one. Here us link with an explanation. Compare your coins to the pics. http://www.error-ref.com/stk_thru_feeder_finger/

It looks like a dryer coin. Got stuck in the gap between the rotating drum and outer wall. Frequent tumbling and bumping around deformed the metal http://www.error-ref.com/dryer-coins/ Error-ref includes a link to this excellent explanation https://www.coincommunity.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=143863

Your coin looks like it is corroded and stained. It doesn't look anything like a missing clad error. Missing clad errors aren't common and it's incredibly unusual to have missing clad on both sides. Also, most coins with a missing clad layer are lighter than standard.

Whatever caused the dents in the rim also hit the back of the head. Sorry but it's damaged.

If you take a cent and pound it between 2 pieces of leather, you'll achieve that effect. Sometimes they're called Texas Cents because they're bigger. This occurred after it left the mint, so it's PMD

I always love it when somebody posts a question about a find/inheritance and it turns out they have something great. Way to go @MOBlackmur. That should make up for the next few dozen "Is my road rash coin an error" posts.

Agree, the coin is a large date

I believe it's damaged, not an error. The mint doesn't supply rolled coins. They ship them out in 2500+ lb ballistic bags to outside contractors who supply rolls to banks. I believe that also use contractors to supply the rolls sold by the mint to collectors (although I'm not 100% certain) Your coin doesn't look like something that could have occurred during the minting process IMO. It may have gotten stuck in some machinery at the rolling company.

@Hoghead515 is right. Your coin is a fake. Sorry for the bad news

I think it looks like the mm took a hit and what your seeing is displaced metal. Just my opinion.

As others have said, the watch wasn't made from metallic radium. It appears that metallic radium will react with air to form a black coating if radium nitride on the surface. Not something that would be desirable on a watch chain. I agree with the others that said the radium stamp refers to the watch dial and not the chain https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radium https://www.chemicool.com/elements/radium.html http://www.chemistry.pomona.edu/Chemistry/periodic_table/Elements/Radium/radium.htm

FYI. The area on the wing is not a cud. Cuds involve a die break associated with the rim area. (yeah, I think it's silly to have a different name, but it's been called that since I started collecting nearly 50 years ago). The mark on the wing is an internal die break, but most of us still call it a die chip or die break

For a copper 1983 cent to be accepted by the numismatic market, it needs to be authenticated by Experts at a TPG. Without authentication, you will never be able to sell it for it's true value and that's going to cost you some $$. There are many knowledgeable members on this forum that can help you decide if it's worth spending the money. As @Greenstangsaid, the probability of finding one of these is incredibly low. If you post some pics on the scale and clear shots of both sides, you'll get an accurate answer. Members love nothing more than when somebody makes a great find, but also realize the odds are stacked against it. BTW. If your pics look fuzzy, they won't be much help. If you can't see them clearly, we can't see them clearly

Die chips seem to be common on recent dimes as well as the ATB quarters. It looks like a minor MAD along with a minor collar clash on the top left

I'm not an ancient specialist, but there are many contemporary counterfeits known. Looks like yours may have a base metal core with a silver wash or foil surface. They are also called Fourees or Limes counterfeits. There are articles that propose some of the fourees are actually official or semi official issues. Hopefully, others with more knowledge can fill in the details. Assuming you don't have a problem with slabbing ancients (I'm not a fan, but that's just my opinion), there shouldn't be a problem with slabbing fourees Here are a few links https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fourrée https://coinweek.com/ancient-coins/bad-money-ancient-counterfeiters-and-their-fake-coins/ https://coinweek.com/ancient-coins/collectible-or-not-a-study-of-ancient-coin-fourees/

The only thing that would be close is a half dollar struck on nickel stock (circled in red). Since nickels aren't clad, you should be able to easily confirm this by looking at the edge. (I saved a pic of the following table from a post on another forum and don't know the original reference.)

Can't see anything based on the pics. Did you check Www.doubleddie.com Www.varietyvista.com If you're looking for doubled dies in change, those should be the first sites you check. Plus, there is a lot of good info on how doubled dies occur

I love the method he uses when he doesn't get what he wants. Rant, carry on, and say bad things about the person (company in this case). I'm sure if you keep this up you'll convince everybody here that you're right I think my kids learned that this wasn't a good technique when the they were 4 or 5. Maybe they could give you some advice

Did you use a gas or electric oven?

Agree. It's a linear plating blister. It's not unusual to see these on the copper plated cents of the 80s

It appears to be a lamination error, but the condition is pretty bad. Cool for a buck +/-, big mistake at $50 IMO

Here is a list of the varieties that NGC will attribute. I don't see any 2009-D Cents on the list. https://www.ngccoin.com/variety-plus/

I’m active on CT and IMO, there is a lot less Moderation than PCGS/CU (haven’t been here long enough to have an opinion). One thing I noticed on CT, however, is you’ll be instantly banned if they discover you open a second user account. No questions, no appeals, POOF! This is what may have happened to the people complaining about CT being unfair.