Oldhoopster

Nice bisecting Die break. Didn't see anything for that date on cuds on coins. You may want to contact them http://cuds-on-coins.com/rim-to-rim-die-cracks-on-u-s-coins-2/

As you found out, it's a counterfeit, and poorly made at that. You asked how can we tell? Take a minute and compare your coin to an original. It isn't even close

I have a theory on the proliferation of of Class IX doubling from the single squeeze process Could the mint be treating it as process variability and not a process nonconformance? Maybe it's a similar scenario to machine (strike) doubling where the loose dies continue to strikecouns until the tech has time to make an adjustment (if you've worked on a manufacturing floor, you know exactly what I'm talking about). If it's not considered a nonconformance, they don't usually stop the production line while waiting for someone to make the adjustment. Downtime = lost production = lost revenue Maybe there's some validity in my idea, or maybe I'm out in left field picking daisies. I just thought I'd throw it out there for others to think about BTW: @GBrad congrats on the discovery piece

Off topic. Skip this if you're looking for 64SMS stuff I'm from the northeast and have spent more than enough time driving through lake effect snow in northern OH and Western NY. It never gets easy. You just need to develop the skill set to drive in it, which is harder for you in Kentucky since you don't get as many opportunities to practice You also need to make good judgements about when to drive and when to pull off the road. How do you know when to pull off? I think the following meme sums it up

I'm glad I could help. Edit to add: @Quintus Arrius your response has me slightly confused. I didn't ask the question about powerball, you did. I was just telling you where to find the answer. I appreciate the the spelling correction (between typing on a phone and auto correct, you can have a field day with my typos), but in this case, "powrball" was from your post. And if you knew the question had been answered previously, why did you ask it again? Either your getting the posts confused, Or your trying to mess with people again. Hopefully it's the former.

Go to the following site: Www.google.com Type in: "How many states participate in Powerball?"

This thread has been ongoing for almost 3 months with the primary concern being randomly logged out of chat (as LemE described) and not being able to log back in. I still get dumped out every 3-5 days. I think the chat board administrator is well aware of the problem. BTW: Members have also posted a work around, so I'm not sure what other suggestions would be useful short of a software fix. Interesting note: the software problem was even discussed on another TPG site when a member here couldn't log back in and asked for help. Hope this helps clarify things

I opened this thread thinking it would be about German porcelain notgeld.

Nice lamination. Probably worth a couple bucks IF it didn't have the stains on the obverse and reverse. Even without the stains, finding a buyer can sometimes be challenging, but sometimes you get lucky..

Sorry, but your coin suffered environmental damage. There are no errors.

You said that you read they were rare in your first post. The reason @RWB asked for your reference is that this info is completely incorrect, and those familiar with the current references understand that. By knowing your source, we can help you understand why it's incorrect and point you in the right direction. BTW: having someone like @rwb trying to help you with a coin question is like having an MIT Mathematics Professor help you with your High School algebra homework. You may be confusing your 1958-D with the very rare 1958 doubled die. There are some minor doubled dies known for 1958-D cents. None are considered valuable. @Coinbuf provided a link to one site in the second post. Did you try to match your coin with any of them? Www.varietyvista.com Www.doubleddie.com

Environmental Damage. The clad outer layers are composed of a 75%Cu25%Ni alloy, which can discolor, especially if it spends time in soil. If you know anyone who metal detects, they can show you numerous coins that look like yours

The quarter is definitely damaged. It looks like solder, but regardless of what caused the damage, it never left the mint in that condition

Don't know about the first one, but it isn't a coin or government issue. Maybe some type of French advertising token The 1987 cent was plated after it left the mint. It's considered damage and only worth face value

The 1859 seated dime struck with an 1860 reverse is considered a transitional pattern since the reverse was supposed be used with a diff obverse. It also has been called a transitional reverse at times. http://www.seateddimevarieties.com/date_mintmark/1859transpage.htm It is not possible for a coin to have a clad obverse and 90% silver reverse.

The first is a copy of a Mexican 8 Reales. The second is a Swiss Shooting medal. I can't tell if it's real or a copy. The link gives weight (25.0 gms) and diameter, so you can check. It's silver, so there is a good chance an off metal copy will have a wrong weight and/or diemeter. The link makes note that many replicas exist. https://en.ucoin.net/coin/switzerland-5-francs-1865/?tid=73557

I don't think there is anything that resembles clash, but it's tough to tell from the pics. Here is the overlay from Maddie Clashes if you want to do some more checking, especially in the field in front of the nose. Not seeing any DDO either. What doubling I see is flat with no notching/split serifs, which are characteristics of Mechanical Doubling. IGWT is too fuzzy, but if there is flat doubling, it's MD

Yes, it looks like a minor debris (grease) filled die error. Interesting and worth saving if you like it, but it doesn't add any additional value

I agree with your thoughts About the value of old threads, but this thread wasn't resurrected to add info or ask a question. The new post was "These numismatists talk funny." The criticism is that the post was resurrected without adding anything relevant. When I open these older threads, my expectation is that there was something new added to the body of knowledge, or at least a relevant question. In this case it was resurrected to make a feeble attempt at humor. IMO, that just wastes everyone's time, and apparently, some others agree. But that's life on an anonymous internet chat board.

I used to work for the company that owned Revere Cookware and made many trips to the plant in Clinton Illinois. Now all the stuff is made overseas. BTW: the QA dept would not consider this a nonconformance unless the date code (not pictured) was illegible.

I would just add that if you plan to stick with the hobby, I would strongly recommend buying a copy of A Guide Book of United States Coins (also called the Redbook). You'll be able to figure out which coins are common vs rare. You'll also get mintages, mint mark locations, a basic grading guide, weights, compositions, dimensions, and some history. All at your fingertips without having to sort through all kinds of web sites. I would bet that nearly every experienced collector on this board who started by collecting US coins had one and used it frequently. It's the best $15 you'll ever spend on the hobby

Lots of coins were ruined by dipping when the blast white coins were all the rage. You still see these dull, lusterless coins showing up. If there is money to be made, somebody will try to cheat

Do you have a question or numismatic related comment to add to the post? Just my opinion, but if you want to resurrect an old thread, please include something that you feel adds value. Opening up an old thread only to see a comment that adds nothing to the discussion, Is a waste of time.

You can try looking them up here https://en.numista.com/catalogue/index.php?ct=coin The German states coins you posted should be worth a couple of bucks each unless it happens to be a rare date. After a quick glance, my guess is that most of the others will fall into the 50 cent $5 range, but there could always be a rare date or type. Looking them up will give you a better idea.

Clad king has posted quite a bit here and on other sites regarding clad coinage. He is very knowledgeable of the availability/survivability of high grade examples, and is a great resource. However I can't recall him posting much, if anything, on error coins. Why do you you think he would be a better error resource than conder or vkurt? BTW - I thought conder's post had excellent information.