Oldhoopster

Never say "I can't explain how this damage occurred, therefore it must be an error". An error or variety can always be explained in terms of the minting and die making process. What part of the Minting process would leave those marks? Answer=None. Do you have any potential explanations? Collar defect? Not looking like that. Do you think a punching artifact would survive both the upset mill AND expanding into the collar during striking? I can't see it happening. The metal is subjected to pressures and deformation during those steps that would "erase" those marks. There are many, many, many ways for a coin to be damaged. If you're going to search for errors, you really need to study and understand the minting process. Here are some links to get you started https://www.coinnews.net/2014/01/06/how-the-denver-mint-makes-dies-to-produce-coins/

Looks like die deterioration, not doubling.

Look at your bottom combo pic. Notice how the doubled die on the left is rounded and full. Now look at yours. It's flat. Flat and shelf-like=mechanical doubling. Take some time to review the characteristics of hub doubling https://www.doubleddie.com/58222.html Here are the characteristics of worthless doubling https://www.doubleddie.com/144801.html

Agree with the damage comments. More than likely, what you see on the edge is due to contact marks from tumbling and banging into something hard. I don't think it's an artifact from punching the blanks. The upset mill process would eliminate most/all of any surface variability on the edge, IMO. Regardless of the cause, it's just PMD.

I think you may be confused with the terminology A business strike normally refers to a coin struck for commerce. This is what you get from the bank or in change at the store. The mint made over 2.6 BILLION business strike cents in 1964. Special Mint Sets (SMS) were made for sale to collectors in 1965-67. They were made using a different process than business strikes. No proof sets were made in those years. No 1964 SMS were authorized. There is even some disagreement among numismatic researchers and collectors as to whether they truly are SMS or just struck from new dies (look through the post archives for the back story. Too much to explain and it may open a can of worms). Regardless of what the click bait, you tube hacks say, you aren't going to find a 64SMS coin in circulation

This outfit has no connection with the US Mint or Government. They went through a lot of effort to make a a common mercury dime look special. It's hard to tell from the pic, but looks like a common 1940s date in circulated condition (there is nothing on the certificate to indicate it's anything else). The dime is worth the silver melt value which is currently $1.65+/-. Dealers/precious metal buyers will probably offer a little less. Taking a wild guess, this might be from the early 80s silver boom or shortly thereafter (only speculation), so there is a small chance somebody would be interested in the coin and cert as a novelty and offer a couple dollars extra on someplace like ebay. IMO, it's probably not worth the time, hassle and cost to find a buyer. BTW: The cert has an error. The coin does not have 2.5 grams of precious metal (silver). The coin weighs 2.5 grams and contains 90% silver, so the precious metal content is less (2.25 gms or 0.0723 troy ounces)

I'm not an expert on European Thalers, but I don't see anything that raises any Immediate red flags. It looks like there may have been a mount or loop removed at 12:00. The weight should be 28.77 grams, so 1.0 ounces is a good sign (best to weigh it in grams to at least 2 digits if possible). I would wait for other responses from experienced members, however. Additional info https://en.numista.com/catalogue/pieces64183.html https://www.ngccoin.com/price-guide/world/sweden-riksdaler-km-187-1642-mdcxliv-1644-cuid-1098273-duid-1553552

Have you considered returning it to the seller? They obviously knew there was a fingerprint, but chose to use a photo that misrepresented the appearance.

You can look up the values of world coins here. Book mark it for future reference https://en.numista.com/catalogue/index.php?ct=coin

There is no way a heavily corroded coin left the mint in that condition. If your going to search for errors, you need to start to learn the minting process. Here is a video from the mint to get you started. The more you know about the minting process, the less time you'll waste on damaged coins.

It's flat and shelf-like with no notching/split serifs which are characteristics of mechanical doubling (also called strike or machine doubling), not hub doubling. Another giveaway is the mm has the same appearance. Doubling occurs in the die making process before the mm is added to the die (for pre 1989 coins).

Good site for Canadian coin values https://coinsandcanada.com/coins-prices.php

At least the humble chiffonier was succinct for once

If you're going to continue collecting, it's a good idea good idea to have some cardboard 2x2s and Safe-flips (clear mylar, make sure there is no PVC) on hand. Order some. If you want an accurate weight, take it out. Not worth the hassle to save a couple cents. 2x2s are cheap. One supplier sells 2x2s for $2.39 per hundred. Buying 100 cent, nickel, quarter, and halves (I put dimes in cent holders) will cost about the same as a fast food lunch.

In 1990, the mint did not add the mint mark to individual dies.It was added upstream in the die making process (added to the Master die or working hub, I can't remember which). That's why you can't have a misplaced mintmark.

Environmental damage. Making a die is a multi step process. A master hub makes master dies, which are used to make working hubs, which are used to make working dies, which strike the coins. The letters are added to the master hub, not individual dies, so if there is a spelling error, every coin struck that year would have it. What do you see to make you think it's broadstruck?

I recall that when the Graysheet changed hands a few years ago, there were discussions that the prices were closer to retail. Not sure if this was adjusted or not. Sorry, no hard data or links so take it for what's worth BTW: Heritage Auctions has a section called Price Guide for Numismatists. They have a Heritage guide, a PCGS Guide, and CDN Prices. Not sure if the CDN values are the same as the subscription values.

Sorry, just environmental damage a lot of contact marks from circulation. The missing reeding on the edges isn't from a collar error. The coin was likely caught in somethinga And tumbled around causing the wear on the edges (a Dryer between the rotating drum and fixed outer drum isn't uncommon, or possibly a pump) and probably contributed to the numerous dings/hits and discoloration as well. Regardless of what caused the damage, it didn't leave the mint like that and is not an error.

No need to apologize. We all have a little...oops...occasionally.

Not off center, Misaligned die (MAD). The mint tech didn't set up the dies correctly when they were installed in the press. If you search enough you'll find them, especially on small coins like cents and dimes. No added value

Does it match any varieties listed on Www.doubleddie.com Www.varietyvista.com Both these sites have extensive listings of Doubled dies as well as RPMs. If you think you found something, check these first Also, the doubleddie site has a lot of info regarding the characteristics of hub doubled dies. I highly recommend spending some time studying that info

Cleaning and conserving ancient and medieval coins is not frowned upon like modern coins. In fact, most ancients have been cleaned. When I started dabbling in ancients 20+ years ago, it was easy to buy dirty, crusty uncleaned lots and try your hand at conserving them. Without cleaning, you would never be able to ID them.

This is what the OP is missing IMO Knowledge has value. If you're a collector who is trying to learn and grow in the hobby, I'll freely help if I can If you're a business and will immediately profit from that knowledge (by improving your descriptions, accurate pricing, counterfeit detection, etc), pay me a consulting fee. It took a lot of time and effort to gain that knowledge. You can either Put in the time and effort to learn it yourself or pay for it. Hope that helps explain the distaste many have for your request.

Agree, they are circulation hits. You can see areas of displaced metal.

So, you want members to to use their knowledge and expertise to ID your coins so you can sell them at a profit? Try this site for IDs Www.wildwinds.com