Oldhoopster

I picked up this tip from a Fred Weinberg post a few years ago.  On improperly annealed planchets, the edges should not be the same color as the obv/rev.  They should have  an as struck appearance.  This is due to the friction and abrasion from the collar removing a very small amount of metal as the coin is ejected from the die

This makes some sense because the color change is due to the copper and/or nickel atoms on the surface reacting with the wrong atmosphere in the annealing furnace. This interaction is time dependent and wouldn't penetrate very far below the surface during the annealing process,  and be easily scrapped off by the collar during ejection.  Especially reeded coins.

On 6/21/2022 at 3:43 PM, VKurtB said:

Your opinion, which virtually no one who counts agrees with. 

Rather bold statement. So in your opinion, who are all these people who don't agree with RWB. (besides the jury and govt prosecutors in the Langbord trial.  We all know the outcome).  I would be interested in making my own decision on whether these people "count" rather than relying solely on another persons opinion

Some were saved, but I think many just got spent by non collectors over the years.  If that's the case, there should be examples out there to be found?

However, how many are out there?  Let's take an unlikely large number of 4000 Cheerios dollars were spent. The mintage of 2000P sackies was just over 767 million coins.  In a perfect world using these numbers, your chances of finding one are approx 0.0005% or 5 in 1 million. And that assumes every coin you look at is a 200P sacky

So the small numbers of new finds being sent for grading are likely just due to the numbers.  How many people are searching for them?  What percentage are 200P?  How many 2000P are in the active CRH rotation (that you can get from commercial banks) and how many are squirrel ed away in vaults waiting years (decades?) to see the light of day. 

Or who knows, maybe they got sent to Ecuador or some other country that uses dollar coins for commerce 

On 6/20/2022 at 9:56 PM, VKurtB said:

Mine too. But a worse one is a guy who is using our knowledge to ENABLE him to sell stuff he knows is bogus, and I’m getting an uneasy feeling about this OP. 

I have no problem helping anyone determine if a coin is fake or even "what is it?  I just dislike the " Tell me how much I should charge for this coin on my eBay store or Antique Mall booth so I don't miss out on the most profit possible".  Especially multiple coins.  Look it up yourself!

Once again, I'm not sure if this is what the OP is doing.  I just got a bad vibe and that's why I asked.

On 6/20/2022 at 8:49 PM, VKurtB said:

For many, selling is all there is. 

Yeah, but I dislike when people who are only interested in profiting from the coins they post and using members as unpaid consultants to profit from that info.  Knowledge has value.  If the only reason you're posting is to make a profit from my knowledge, either pay me for it, or show me that your interested in learning it for yourself.  

Sorry, but that's one of my pet peeves.  I'm not saying that the OP is doing this, and if so I apologize, but something gave me that impression, so I asked (twice now, with no reply)

BTW: if someone is interested in learning, either collector or retailer, I'll try to go out of my way to help you.  

Just my thoughts and an explanation

On 6/20/2022 at 8:21 PM, Hoghead515 said:

Thank you hoop and zadok. Ive been thinking for a long time about venturing into ancients. We do have 4 ancient coins already. That helped clear a few things up for me. 

Ancients can be tough in the beginning, but if you like history it can be incredibly rewarding.  I can't count the number of times, I'd spent hours trying go attribute a low grade, late Roman bronze (LRB) only to put it back in the drawer for later. 

However, as I paged through the Reference books or wildwinds site, I was always finding something else that was interesting.  While that ratty $2 LRB may still be a ratty $2 LRB 20 years later, I learned so much during the "painful" attribution process and I can't put a price on that. Invaluable

I notice you are always asking for pricing information.  Are you planning to resale them as part of a business, or are you a collector and these are part of your collection? 

Just a normal circulated cent

Here's a piece of info.  ALL the letters in IGWT/LIBERTY, fonts, and devices are the same for every coin in the 30s and later.

The mint uses working dies to strike coins.  Working dies are made from working hubs.  Working hubs are made from Master dies.  And Master dies are made from the Master hub, which didn't get updated for years/decades.  (Compare a 1968 cent to a 1969 cent to see a new Master Hub update).  LIBERTY is on the Master hub, so there is no part of the die making process where a different L could be used

The 5 looks like a minor die chip (internal die break) and is common.  It may also have a little damage from a hit along with the 9.  The U is damaged from a hit.  Nothing to indicated doubling

On 6/16/2022 at 12:08 PM, Errorists said:

Just a new Modern VAM.

VAM is the acronym used to to describe Morgan and Peace Dollars varieties. It has nothing to do with modern nickels or any other modern series for that matter.  Please don't confuse new collectors with made up terms that make no sense.

Are these coins for your collection, or are you doing resale?

The dark color indicates environmental damage.  As @Greenstang said, this could not occur during the minting process.

On 6/14/2022 at 6:24 AM, J P Mashoke said:

Finding any silver coins dated after 1965 in circulation is very rare. Some early Kennedys and Ike's are 40% silver Most would have to be from special sets or strikes that were broken out. I would recommend buying a Redbook for a reference guide to anyone who likes coins. 

Fyi. The mint continued to strike 90% dimes and quarters dated 1964 for circulation until early 1966 to help alleviate the transition to clad. 

Occasionally, a silver planchet would get stuck in a tote or equipment, only to become dislodged later and mixed with the clad planchets and struck with the clad dates.  It is also possible to have clad coins dated 1964.  

This is the same Type of transitional error that resulted in the 1943 copper and 1944 steel cents.

On 6/13/2022 at 8:01 PM, Harold Biswick said:

Okay! Thanks guys I feel stupid now 😅

For new collector, you figured out the hard part in getting the weight (even the it was the wrong balance), so that's pretty good

But you whiffed on the easy part of checking the edge.  Doh

Don't worry, it will come together for you and I think you'll be fine

On 6/13/2022 at 5:02 PM, Patman54 said:

Wouldn't that leave brush marks and scratches I would think 

You would think, but the speed and friction of the numerous, closely spaced wires seem to push the metal rather than remove it.  Im sure if you brushed it long enough, the design and  waviness would disappear

Hitting it with a wire brush will give a similar effect depending on wire type/gauge and speed

A few months ago on another forum somebody wrote in about the experimental GM pieces.  I can't find a link, but if I recall correctly, they were involved with maintenance and/or dismantling the press and found a few pieces that were lodged in the equipment.  Short story is that he was advised to have them authenticated, which he did, and was apparently doing well selling the graded pieces (through Heritage I think)

Past results are no guarantee of future performance, but you may want to search the heritage archives to see what sold recently

On 6/9/2022 at 1:28 PM, Quintus Arrius said:

[Gratuitous commentary... I have reason to believe 99.44% of my threads and posts were vandalized or desecrated in my absence.  Expungements effectively destroy the written record. While doing so is your prerogative, it unwittingly gives others the right to proclaim: "You are sadly mistaken. I never said or wrote that."

That is why First Strikes in numismatics are comparable to First Editions by bibliophiles. None of us are infallible and both you and others enjoy sterling reputations. The succeeding posts make that crystal clear.]

 

Members cannot make changes to your posts, only moderators/administrators. If you were quoted by another member, they can change/delete their post with the quote, but not your Original post.

If your posts have vandalized or desecrated, that would have to have been done by the admin and I would think they must have had a specific reason.

It's a misaligned die (MAD).  Interesting, but not enough for any added value

On 6/7/2022 at 11:11 AM, Errorists said:

I like this place better. They have NGC graders here. What better expert advice can you get? 

So you're saying that because you like this site better, you'll get better advice here than you would at a site that specializes in the subject. 

That makes no sense.  But then again, many of the responses you've given to previous posts make no sense either.  I guess that speaks to the credibility of the information you post here.  

On 6/7/2022 at 8:31 AM, Errorists said:

Nah I'll take it up with the members here..

I don't understand.  Why wouldn't you want to go to a resource that has dedicated subject matter experts to discuss your new proposal?

I'm sure there are knowledgeable VAM collectors here that can provide feedback, but why not go where the experts are concentrated? 

Are you really interested in determining the answer?

You should take it up with the members at

 http://www.vamworld.com/wiki/Home

On 6/6/2022 at 8:34 PM, Hesham Mansour said:

 Ok, I got it . My last question is how about if the cents had passed the magnetic test and the weight is between 2.9g to 3.1g?

thanks all of you for your efforts

 

The 1943 copper cent is one of the most faked US coins.  You can go to aliexpress and buy chinese fakes made from copper with correct weights for less than $2 each.  How many dozen do you want?

Unless the coin has the correct style, fabric, strike characteristics, lettering, etc as an authentic 1943 cent, it doesn't matter what it weighs or if it sticks to a magnet.  I remember a dealer showing me a couple of fakes when I started collecting over 50 years ago. There are an incredible number of fakes out there