Oldhoopster

6 hours ago, Blesscoin said:

Hello  all can someone please tell me.if these are small dates thanks 

The 3rd post of this thread has side by side pics of the small and lg dates.  IMO, comparing the 2 is the easiest way to tell.  Also compare the 8

I've read that a good rule of thumb is to avoid getting A coin graded that sells for less than $100-$150.  Don't forget that it normally costs approx $50 +/- to get an individual coin graded, so it may not be wise to send in a low value or cleaned/damaged coin.  

Just my opinion

13 minutes ago, VKurtB said:

Here we go again. It’s plated, AFTER it left the Mint.

Or the copper plating was removed after it left the mint, leaving the zinc core exposed

There are a multitude of ways a coin can Become damaged after it leaves the mint, but only a limited number of ways an error can occur during the minting process.  

A planchet enters the die chamber and is struck by the dies.  A collar is used to keep the coin at the correct diameter and form the reeding on dimes, quarters and halves.  It is impossible for an in spec planchet to have a smaller diameter, thicker edge, and complete but distorted lettering next to the rim.  Can't happen, so that's why it's easy to tell its not a mint error.

As to what caused the damage?  Who knows?  A dryer coin has some characteristics that are similar, but maybe it was something else.  Unless you were there when it happened, you may never know.  But if you take the time and learn the minting process, you'll know that it didn't leave the mint like that

Here is a site to get you started

https://www.usmint.gov/news/inside-the-mint/how-coins-are-made-coin-production-terminology

Here is a good explanation of a dryer coin.  Make sure you click on they link listed at the end of the explanation.

http://www.error-ref.com/?s=Dryer+coin

Hope this helps

As @Equalibrium said, you have a 1982-D LARGE date copper.  In circulated condition, it's worth face value

Sorry, but your coin has environmental damage and is severely corrided.  It didn't leave the mint like that and is not an error of any kind

I believe these are roller marks, not an improperly mixed alloy.  These come from the ingot rolling process and leave regularly spaced, parallel lines.  

The woody cents are due to compositional variations in the original ingot.  They are more irregular than the lines on your coin.  

It seems the evenly spaced roller marks are found on 1980 and 1981 cents.

It's very easy to determine if it's copper or zinc by getting an accurate weight.  The pics aren't great, but the surfaces look like it's zinc and worth face value.

If you still think you have something, getting the weight is the next step

Until 1989, mint marks were punched into individual dies by hand, so the placement can vary.  While the S is close to the date, it's not considered anything special

On 2/9/2021 at 1:36 PM, Quintus Arrius said:

[Here's a thought that is sure to rile up some folks.  Imperceptible to all but the most attentive is the thought that numbers on coins are larger in the hotter summer months and smaller during the frigid winters.  This principle also explains the clickety-clack of train rails.]  The serious collector would do well to familiarize him/her self with all aspects of already authenticated examples and consider too that the FDC (fleur de coin) you seek will find you, before you find it

Are you saying saying that the thermal expansion of copper would change the shape and size of the digits to the point where you could visually see the difference?

It's a clipped planchet.  It clearly shows the Blakesley effect 

It's definitely worth preserving in a 2x2, non-PVC flip, or other type of holder

I'm not seeing anything on your pics.  Maybe there is some die deterioration doubling, which is common and doesn't add any value.  There is a big difference between a doubled die that occurred during the die making process, and DDD due to a worn die, or MD caused by a loose die in the press.

Wexler has a good explanation on his site.  

https://www.doubleddie.com/144801.html

Sorry, but your coin suffered environmental damage. It looks like a coin that has spent some time in the ground.  Regardless of what caused the damage, it didnt leave the mint looking like that.

As others have said, your coin was plated after if left the mint and is not an error

Here are the instructions for one type of plating you can do yourself

https://www.thoughtco.com/gold-and-silver-pennies-605971

2 hours ago, RWB said:

No, it's actually interesting to understand how the numbering system evolved. Now -- next task is to apply the same approach to Sheldon numbers and TPG coin grading. Do TPG assign numbers based on coin's age, its popularity, times submitted (or in a competitor's slab), or possibly with some vague relationship to Sheldon's screwball "system?" (Not "phrenology" - that's his other screwball system toy.)

Of course, that's not a serious question - but it's Friday and already snowing and the trained moose are trying to clear the roads with their antlers.

I think @Insider holds up his fingers for the first digit and his toes for the second digit of the grade for the finalizers to confirm.  

As for Sheldon numbers.. they must use the daily lottery number

57 minutes ago, RWB said:

Good to see your icon! Non-coin question....Why do basketball players have numbers, such as 44, when there are only 12-15 on a team? Do they get numbers based on age, points scored, shots made (or missed).... OK - probably an unfair question for your first posted thread.

There are some good folks here who will try to engage and help. Few of the repetitive things that abound ATS or elsewhere, although then new collector forum can get a little strange.

High school and college can only use the digits 0-5 i,e, 1,2 3,4 ,5, 10, 11, 12, 13....54, 55.  That equals 35 choices (I think 0 was approved for use recently).  When the referee calls a foul he signals the number to the scorers table by holding up his fingers.  One hand is for the 1st digit and the other hand is  for the second digit. I think they also hold one hand palm towards they scorer and one hand back to they scorer.  All this is in case the scorer can't here hear the ref calling out the number if the place is noisy.

My son's college team usually has between 15-20 kids on the team, so there aren't too many extra numbers, plus they don't have a uniform with every number.  (My avatar is a pic of my son)

When I played in HS years ago, all of the local schools wore light colored home uniforms with even numbers and dark colored with odd numbers for away games, so I was 40 and 41.  That effectively meant only 17 numbers could be used for a game.  Plus, the uniforms are used for multiple years and they need different sizes.  My HS uniforms 1-15 - small; 20-35 medium; 40-45 Large; and 50-55 XL (that's why a lot of centers wore high numbers and guards wore low numbers) 

I guess that's more useless info regarding basketball uniform numbers than anybody wants to know

Sorry, but your coin did not leave the mint like that and is not an error of any kind.  @Just Bob provided a good explanation

2 hours ago, Just Bob said:

 

........

 

What are your collecting interests?

I have not been buying too much over the last few years.  I’ve added some Early commems that I find historically interesting, a couple to my Colonial type set (the kids will soon be out of college so A New England silver may be within reach), and started a Charlotte/Dahlonega Type set.  Other current interests include German Metal and Porcelain Notgeld, and Germany 1873-1945, Ireland/Australia/New Zeeland Pre-decimal sets in circulated grades (i.e., cheap). 

At various times, I’ve been interested in US series from early copper to Morgans and still am a member of the CWTS.  I’ve also dabbled in ancients and medieval, although my reference books are probably worth more than the coins (I have a bad habit of buying expensive books to ID cheap coins).  Coming up on 40 years in the ANA, have held offices in local coin clubs, and have written a few articles for club newsletters. 

2 hours ago, Alex in PA. said:

Welcome back and sorry to hear you had problems.  This Forum is pretty relaxed but there are rules to follow.  I personally think we have a pretty relaxed atmosphere  Good luck.

Sorry, I may not have been clear.  I didn't get bounced, but some members that I used to follow (who had been dismissed for what I thought were questionable infractions) post here.  I enjoyed their numismatic scholarship and willingness to share interesting info.  IMO, that void was never filled when they were shown the door, so maybe I can find some of that here.  No matter how long I've been in the hobby, I'm still trying to learn new stuff.  

I joined this site 3 ½ years ago but never bothered to post.  I’m on a few other coin forums and recently read that some who received the “Red Avatar of Shame” and were banished now post here, so I figured I would see what’s happening.   I already see some users that I recognize from elsewhere

Best Regards

Oldhoopster