Oldhoopster

4 hours ago, Newguy78 said:

Don't think it's glue there is no edge to it. Also looks like the cladding is gone and there seems to be some tarnishing 

Nickels are not clad, they are a solid 75% copper 25% Nickel alloy.

Your coin is stained/environmentally damaged, or has some glue/adhesive or other substance as others have said.  It is not an error of any kind

One of the keys to identifying errors and varieties is knowing the minting and die making process.  You've received answers from members who are very knowledgeable of the process.  

Here are some links to get you started

https://www.usmint.gov/news/inside-the-mint/how-coins-are-made-coin-production-terminology

https://www.coinnews.net/2013/09/13/how-the-philadelphia-mint-makes-hubs-and-dies-to-produce-coins/

See if you can find an exact match on:

www.varietyvista.com

www.doubleddie.com

Absolutely damaged

It's called split plate doubling. The copper plating split during striking exposing the zinc core, so it's not really doubling.

55 minutes ago, vnam1971 said:

Appreciate the overview and additional comments Quintus Arrius. Definitely things to consider here. I do not see V.D.B. under magnifying glass and under Lincoln's shoulder. Would that not be on a 1909 or 1909-S only, or were you just joking? Elaborate please if you were serious. Who is Ratzie33, the resident expert?

All Lincoln cents since 1918 have a VDB on the edge of the shoulder near the rim.  If it's missing, that could be another piece of data pointing that your coin is a fake.  

Mechanical Doubling (MD).  See how it's flat and there are no split serifs?  Those are characteristics of MD.

You may have seen this link already, but just in case you haven't, or other new collectors are interested, here is a good explanation.

http://www.doubleddie.com/144801.html

If it's raised, the "cut" looks like it could be a plating blister.  These are common on copper plated zinc cents

@silky those are some extremely rare coins.  I hate to sound negative, but the chances of finding any one of them would be lottery winning odds..  Finding all 3???  In a market in the Philippines?   There is practically no chance of them being authentic.  Sorry for the bad news

I agree with @Hoghead515 Some type of glue 

@Silky has others have said, please post clear pics on this thread.  Also, accurate weights would help.  There are a number of very knowledgeable collectors and numismatic researchers who can help if you provide pics and weights.

If you haven't done so, check the coins with a magnet.  Many earlier Chinese fakes are magnetic.

I believe it's a 5 Aragot from Israel 

The date is the last line on the side with the 5. You may be able to find more info Including help with translating the date here

https://www.ngccoin.com/price-guide/world/

https://en.numista.com/catalogue/index.php?ct=coin

9 hours ago, Quintus Arrius said:

(And the concerns expressed as valid as the day they were first conceived.)  😉

Just wanted to provide some info that the post is old, and the OP may not be active, nor see the reply.  Also, this was the first post by rock jacket, so they may not have been aware that it hadn't been active in 3 years. 

Just trying to help 

Yes, it's a legit error.  @ldhair provided the explanation

2 hours ago, CDirkse said:

Thanks for the clarification. I dont have any pictures. I just sent it in to be graded. I was just wondering if there were any others. 

Dies are now made using a single squeeze process so traditional doubled dies like the 1955, 1972, etc., are not possible.  There is a way for doubling to occur on single squeeze dies, but it’s usually minor.  Wexler has an explanation on his site.

http://www.doubleddie.com/58222.html

I don’t believe there is much interest in this type of doubling.  However, if you find them interesting, don’t let me discourage you.  Research and discovery are always good

You can always check for known doubled dies at

www.doubleddie.com

www. varietyvista.com

http://www.lincolncentresource.com/

1 hour ago, RockJacket said:

Struck o Ecuadorian 20 centavo planchet perhaps?

The Ecuador 20 centavo planchet is 21mm, so it wouldn't fit into the striking chamber.  It's also 4.0 grams

As @Conder101 said, the coin is very slightly out of spec by 0.06 grams.  Minor variations in the strip thickness isn't uncommon and a slightly thicker planchet is the cause, IMO

BTW:  This thread is over 3 years old

Here is some very good info to determine if you have a clipped planchet or somebody just got happy with a grinder.

BTW:  I believe the value would be a few dollars at best.  The clip is minor and the coin has some environmental damage.  However, it is a cool mint error.

http://www.error-ref.com/_curved_clips_/

It's damaged and probably a dryer coin.  The following is a good explanation (don't forget to click on the the link that error-ref has posted)

https://www.error-ref.com/?s=dryer+coin

@Greenstang makes a good point.  You should never think "I can't explain how this coin was damaged.  Maybe it's an error."  You always need to ask "How could this occur during the minting process".  If there is no explanation, then it can't be a mint error.   The minting and die making processes are well documented, and understanding them is the key to understanding errors and varieties.  As with anything new, it takes time to learn the process, but many members on this forum have a lot of knowledge and can help.

Here are some links that help

https://www.usmint.gov/news/inside-the-mint/how-coins-are-made-coin-production-terminology

https://coinauctionshelp.com/mintingprocesshistory.html#.YGSfKuTsZaT

9 hours ago, Conder101 said:

Nope, because if it has wear it isn't MS even if the TPG called it that.

1 hour ago, Quintus Arrius said:

Precisely.

Then why did you imply (at least from my take away) that members can't find Unc coins in circulation?  If you have a problem with market grading (which many members do), come right out and say so.  Why dance around it?  If you're straight and to the point, it results in less confusion for newer collectors on here who are trying to learn.  Just my opinion.

Emphasis is mine

13 hours ago, Quintus Arrius said:

Modwriter, this is not to single you out, or anyone else for that matter, but this matter, in pertinent part as segregated above, was the subject of my recent diatribe elsewhere.

Question:  How can one expect to find Mint State coins -- which by their very definition are Uncirculated, in change, which implies in Circulation?

16 minutes ago, Quintus Arrius said:

Maybe it's me; maybe I'm the problem.  What is the definition of UNCIRCULATED now, in 2021.  Since when did coins never released into circulation, the very definition of Uncirculated, suddenly become something that by definition they are not -- and can never be.

It's too bad VKurtB is busy battling tropical storms and tornados because I know he knows the answer.

As mentioned in another thread

Uncirculated = No visible wear

51 minutes ago, Quintus Arrius said:

Modwriter, this is not to single you out, or anyone else for that matter, but this matter, in pertinent part as segregated above, was the subject of my recent diatribe elsewhere.

Question:  How can one expect to find Mint State coins -- which by their very definition are Uncirculated, in change, which implies in Circulation?

Uncirculated = no visible wear, not untouched by human hands

There is no one size fits all answer. In order to clean/conserve a coin, you need to determine the following

• What do you want to remove.  Toning, corrosion, dirt, organics?
• Which chemicals will work best for removal.  Solvents, acids, alkalis?
• What will those chemicals do to the rest of the coin?  Will it react and be noticeable to The luster or metal surfaces
• Estimate the condition of the surface under the stuff you want to remove.  Will it be pitted? Toned differently?
• Are there any harmful consequences if the coin is not cleaned, (PVC residue, or bronze disease)

Basically nearly every cleaning method can result in noticeable changes to original surface of the coin.  If it's noticeable, the value of the coin will be reduced, sometimes significantly.  That's why the simple answer to new collectors is, Don't clean your coins.  It's too easy to screw it up.

If you want to practice on cheap stuff, grab some change from your pocket.  You can spend it when your done.