Oldhoopster

Lots of scratches and dings due to circulation. The key is understanding the minting and die making process and knowing that your coin could not have left the mint looking like that.  Coins are struck with tons of force that cause the metal to flow.  This gets rid of nearly all the marks left on the planchet. Also, the marks are recessed on the coin, which means the would have to be raised if the were on the die.  That won't happen on a die.  Even if the die breaks or chips during product ion, it won't look like your coin.

Here is a video from the mint.  Learning about the minting process takes time but is well worth it if you want to identify error coins

It has the Look of a poorly cast fake.

@proud potato Is this related to numismatics?

1 hour ago, Hoghead515 said:

I went ahead and decided on having this one certified. Some people may think im crazy but it was a decision I think is right for me and my reasons. @DWLange since I chose variety plus does that automatically mean the variety will be mentioned on the label of the slab? I used an online submission form so is it ok on the line item I filled out I just put VP 006 In the Variety Plus box ? 

There is absolutely nothing wrong with having a coin certified for any reason whatsoever, assuming you are aware of the costs, benefits, and drawbacks (which you obviously are).  

Edit to add: IMO

9 hours ago, 2shea2 said:

 

So, if I sent the coins in for grading, the experts at NCG could tell me if my 1943 nickels are copper-nickel in composition or copper- silver-manganese ? I live in a very small town that is far from any cities of any good size. I do appreciate your input.

Yes, but it's probably going to cost you $60+ per coin (a little less if you send multiple coins).  AT that price, you'll want to be darn sure that you have something, or you'll just be throwing money away.  While it can happen, the chances of finding of finding an off composition planchet is extremely rare.  Finding multiple?  Well, let's just say that winning the lottery may be easier.  

The handheld XRF used by the Jewelers and "We buy gold" places would be able to determine very quickly if you have the standard 75%Cu25%Ni planchet or the war nickel comp.

Your coin suffered a lot of damage during it's life.  Sorry, but it's not a lamination error

@Grant Gerlinger

This isn't the doubling that's caused by the working hub shifting during the manufacture of the working die.  This is caused by the date being punched twice into the die. RPDs can  be found on a few 2 cent pieces and Shield nickels from this time period

Hope this helps

1 hour ago, Jay6392 said:

Wow my apologies so obvious I dnt know how I missed that. Thanks everyone

You can see some very nice Lincoln Cents on the NGC explorer page.  

https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-explorer/lincoln-cents-memorial-reverse-1959-2008-pscid-100

1 hour ago, Quintus Arrius said:

You're kidding me.  He was already out the door! He was leaving voluntarily!  He was here such a short time, serious collectors like Goldfinger engaged in productive pursuits, didn't even get a chance to know him.   Maulemaule mauled me and Alex fr PA sicced one of his ferocious dogs on me, re-breaking my broken leg just for sticking up for him. All the naysayers had to do was simply turn the page like many of them do now.  Get a load of this: they were pissed because he failed to substantiate the admittedly outlandish claims he made for which he was denounced as a liar.  Big deal!  He was just blowing off steam and was barely here a week. I don't recall anyone demanding to see documentary proof of my existence. If you were to go to a cop and complain Quintus Arrius did such-and-such, you'd get a blank stare.  It's only a user-name, get it? The only time it has appeared in print was when it was engraved on a plague given to me by PCGS for having, among other things, the "Best French Set" this year. Like it or not, I made #1 on two lists: Current and All-Time.  Mission accomplished. (And I'm not even thru yet.)

There is a long-time member here who has made his dislike for me so intense that when I offered to buy a coin he posted, at what I thought was clearly an extra-exorbitant price, intentionally, to overcome his resistance to me, instead of saying, No, he shot back:  "You wouldn't want it.  It's counterfeit." Did I raise a hue and cry about it?  As Curley of The Three Stooges would famously say, "Soytenlee knot!" 

The NV guy was totally harmless.  Never sold anyone snake oil. Never even tried to get one over on anyone.  Plenty of people have committed worse crimes. He was a dealer.  Has no dealer ever exaggerated, manipulated, mis-led, or fleeced you?  This was a self-moderating episode. I found him to be No worse than any other poster on-line.  Is anyone out a cent because of his insistence another TPGS cheated him? He wasn't out to get anybody here. No one was obligated to pay heed to him.  Whatever happened to leaving someone to their own devices or simply ignoring him?  It takes two to tango, right?  I don't even know why I even bother with this anymore.

If anyone here wants to make himself useful, give me a lead on someone, anyone, who has for sale a 1910, 1913 or 1914 P-certified MS-67 or, for those who seek a real challenge, an 1899 thru 1906 P-certified at MS-66. I collect only one series; you know what it is without my having to say so. So get to work.  This will separate the collector from the contender.  Good luck!  Guess I'll have to send NV my congratulations for turning the focus here back on me with his absense as well as my congratulations for his refusal to be intimidated by those who aren't even here regularly, if not full-time, and for dancing around those who were hell-bent on humiliating an average Joe who sought his fifteen minutes of fame -- and never hurt a fly in doing so. And if expressing my thoughts freely makes me the next candidate for banishment to Bogeyland, so be it.

*       *       *       *       *

Translation = "Just ignore him".  Is that correct?

It looks like the mm took a hit after it reached circulation.

Here are some sites that list Repunched mintmarks (RPMs).  Click on the RPM tabs to see what they actually look like

www.varietyvista.com

www.doubleddie.com

I can't tell for certain from your pics, but the extra outline is likely to be mechanical doubling (also called strike or machine doubling).  This is not true doubling and adds no additional value.  The doubleddie.com site has a tab called "Worthless Doubling" that provides an excellent explanation.

BTW: You sound like you're new to collecting.  Here is some info to help clarify things.  Coins are struck, not printed (therefore, an error is not a misprint).  Hope this helps

6 hours ago, Romonaga said:

I do thank you all for your responses and feed back.  I did seek others, and I did do my due diligence.  Yes, this is a new hobby and I have much to learn.  Now, if you ever need advice on Antique Sterling silver from th 1700 forward, this I know well.  If you want to know anything about American pocket watches and chains, and how to evaluate them, I am your guy.

However, at this time I needed a new hobby.  Someone asked if one of my first coins had to be a 4 digit coin, and this is a good question, did it?  What is the good price point for a starter who can afford and wants a nice coin from time to time? When do you take the chance the the valuation of the coin is better then what you spent and go for it?  I guess in this case, I took a chance, on a coin that I personally liked.  In the end, I guess that is all that maters.  I have seen it said here, if you like the coin, buy it.

Coinbuf, I do thank you for the suggestion of using the tool, it is part of why I like this site.  the problem I had is when using the tool, the prices it were coming up with were far more then I valued and the seller valued the coin.  I guess I was just looking for some affirmation that it is a good coin, and that others seen potential. Ebay checking comps, well, that is always fun, almost as fun as checking etsy.

Thanks and I do look forward to learning from you all as I get more into this hobby.

Maybe take it from another prospective.  What would you say to an experienced numismatist that was interested in antique sterling?  Assuming they can figure out the basics like looking up hallmarks, understand that counterfeits exist, and know about cleaning, patination, silver manufacturing, etc 

Would you recommend they start with higher End items with the potential risks of not understanding the market, overpaying, buying  counterfeits/repaired/ damaged or starting out with a lower valued series, learn the hobby, and reduce the risk of being cheated?

There are plus and minuses to each approach.  I think it also depends what you want out if numismatics.  Investment?  The enjoyment of searching for coins to complete a set?  Recognition/competition from as the registry sets?  History? Building knowledge?  Lots of different ways you can go and each could have different recommendations.

4 hours ago, J P Mashoke said:

I found this little PMD oddity. looks like some clad is missing. What do ya think a bad bond of the clad layer, blow torch or a massive chemical spill

Filled die due to a Light layer of grease.  

Nice find.  Sending it in for grading would cost significantly more than it's worth.  It will do nicely in a 2x2/flip.  If possible, I would give it a short acetone soak and thorough rinse to get rid of any oils from your fingers so you don't end up with an ugly fingerprint in the future.

In regards to your title: Conservation, I wouldn't bother.  However, if you must, try acetone then xylene.  

5 minutes ago, Alex in PA. said:

The Author of the Original Thread ATS is coming to check me out.

Too Much Information, IMO, 

1 hour ago, Coinbuf said:

QA will say anything just to get some attention as most here ignore what he has to say.

Thanks.  I haven't been active here for that long and don't know the players without a program (or at least those I don't recognize from other forums).  Appreciate the feedback.

@CajunJosh sorry that I can't add anything additional to the real vs fake discussion, but you did get feedback from some very knowledgeable and experienced numismatists (and a few of QA's "armchair experts" as well).  Please post the results when it gets back.  While Mr. Feld brought up questionable authenticity only as a possibility, not a certainty, something caught his eye that I missed and I think many of us can learn from it once you have the results (both for cleaning and authenticity)

1 hour ago, Quintus Arrius said:

Cajun guy, not to worry. Nobody pays attention to what I have to say. Still, I would have solicited 2d, 3d and 4th opinions on my relic after providing the armchair experts with as much information as possible beyond cat scratches -- before submitting.  Coins have two sides and dates. That's a start. Unfortunately, the train has left the station and any discussion on the merits at this point would be purely academic.

Wow, I never thought of Mr. Feld and Mr. Burdette being part of the “armchair expert” crowd.  It would really be interesting what experience/qualifications are required to make it into your True Expert category?  I hope you were just making a humorous statement and not discounting their experience.

It looks like you have some basic coins that are interesting, but not necessarily rare.  I would recommend buying a copy of "A Guide Book of United States Coins".  It's published yearly by Whitman.  The prices may not truly reflect what you can get if you sell them to a dealer, but it will give you a good indication which ones are common and which ones may have additional collector value.  It also has some basic grading info, mintages, silver content, and interesting historical information.

The book is only $10-15.  You can use it to sort out which ones are worth melt value, which are better dates, and which ones are common.  That should narrow down the number of coins that may be worth posting for more info.

Hope this helps

Sorry, but it's just some type of post mint plating or discoloration due to environmental exposure.  It's not an error.  You can see where the plating/discoloration has worn off on the high points on the reverse

Edit to add:

Your Morgan is made from 90% silver.  The clad layers are an alloy of 75% copper 25% nickel, so chemical reactions that cause toning would be different.

Sorry, it is a common quarter that is only worth 25 cents.  You can still find them in circulation in the US.  It is not worth spending money to have it graded.

Google translate:

Lo sentimos, es un cuarto común que solo vale 25 centavos. Todavía puede encontrarlos 
en circulación en los EE. UU. No vale la pena gastar dinero para calificarlo.

Why do you believe it's an SMS set?

Weight and magnetism are not guarantees of authenticity

I can't see enough to offer an opinion, but you should be aware that Chinese copies are available. 

https://m.aliexpress.com/wholesale/1944+steel+penny.html?channel=direct&keywords=1944+steel+penny&catId=0&initiative_id=AS_20210502071201&origin=y&SearchText=1944+steel+penny

While the pics have copy stamped on the coin to comply with US laws, the manufacturer in China may skip this step on production items.

Provenance is also an important clue.  If you recently purchased it on eBay/etsy/Craigslist, I wouldn't be too optimistic.  

Another good way to check is search the web for pics of authentic examples in NGC or PCGS holders and compare the characteristics.

Finally, you mentioned you lived in Dallas.  Heritage Auctions is well known for numismatics and are in the Dallas metro area