Oldhoopster

On 9/16/2021 at 3:03 PM, Alex in PA. said:

Why the popcorn emoji?

The OP who is a non native English speaker, thought he had something.  Roger and others provided excellent info on why he didn't.  The OP already sent the coin in and appears to have acknowledged that it was a mistake in his last post.

IMO, this thread ended in a positive outcome.  Knowledge was shared and nobody is disputing anything

If you're going to try to stir up trouble, at least read the thread.  

The damage is from abrasion.  Maybe its a dryer coin or maybe it's something else, but regardless its not an error.  The heat from a dryer has no effect on a coin, the damage comes from tumbling and abrasion between the rotating drum and outer shell

Flat and shelf-like, no split serifs.  Characteristics of mechanical doubling, which adds no value. 

Check out the "worthless doubling" tab on Wexler's website for more info.

https://www.doubleddie.com/144801.html

Its environmental damage, not an error.  The alloy used for the clad layers is 75% copper, 25% nickel.  In some cases, especially if it's spent time in the ground, chemical reactions will occur that will leave the surfaces with a copper appearance.  It did not leave the mint like that

Same comments as others regarding trying to evaluate based on those pics.  However, please be aware that this type of coin has been heavily copied as everything from deceptive counterfeits to tourist souvenirs, to Readers Digest promotions.  As @l.cutler said, don't get too excited.

Sorry, But your coin is damaged.  It isn't an error of any kind.

I dabble in ancients but am no means an expert.  However, I'm concerned about the uniform size of the planchets as well as the each coin being nicely centered.  That is very unusual and gives me a reason to be concerned.   Also, if I recall correctly, the Naxos coin may be worth 6 figures and has been extensively copied.

I would wait for more input before sending them in, and  would be surprised if they were authentic.  Just my opinion

Sorry, but I only see scattered contact/circulation and discoloration due to environmental damage.

Recommendation - crimp the back of the staples.  If you stack or store the 2x2s with raised staples, there is a good chance of scratching your coins

1926-D

Just to put things in perspective, the Denver mint made over 6 BILLION cents in 1982 and if I recall correctly,  only 2 copper small dates have been authenticated.  You have a better chance of winning the Power Ball than finding the 3rd one.

If you like old coins, keep searching.  It's very hard to get rich, but over time, you'll learn a lot and probably find some interesting stuff

Agree, it looks like a 1941.  All kinds of environmental damage/corrosion that could account for the weight loss.

On 8/21/2021 at 11:22 AM, Elviscocho said:

In this same order of ideas, I took this photo almost accidentally after many unsuccessful attempts, (due to not having the proper tools) this photo belongs to a 1966 penny p it is the E for cent, this is a total and absolutely normal E ?

Sorry, but those are not split serifs.

On 8/21/2021 at 11:47 AM, Dark Chameleon said:

My local dealer has a penny that is graded an ms66 rd but over time even though it's sealed in a grading slab the color has changed, so much it would not achieve an rd grade were it cracked out and resubmitted, what would the reason for that be, its supposed to be sealed so how come oxidation is happening?

1. Slabs are not hermetically sealed.  They do reduce the potential for atmospheric infiltration, but much will depend on the storage environment.  Normally, this isn't a problem, but is something to consider

2. There could have been an unseen residue or contamination on the coin when it was slabbed (maybe leftover from a quick dip or surface enhancement).  I've seen a few slabbed Morgan dollars with dip residue that is retoning.  Nothing like a darker drip mark on a coin in a slab.  

Sorry, but it's a large date.  You can tell by the shape of the 2

Looks like it has a lot of potential to be a legit missing clad layer error.  It even has some strike weakness, which would be expected from a thinner coin.  Based on the pics, I think you have a winner.

On 8/14/2021 at 2:12 PM, James Zyskowski said:

Why the heck can they figure out how to detect faults in widget assembly lines with scanning can’t they adapt that kind of technology at the mint. Pharmacy products sure need inspection. On and on😈

The widget company needs to continually make their products better/faster/cheaper, or they're going to lose customers to competitors.  We all know of name brand products we used to buy, but now go elsewhere because of better quality or pricing.

So if you want a better product at a cheaper price, just buy them from the competition.  Oh wait.....  

The counterfeit warning bell went of when I first saw the pics.  The date doesn't look quite right, especially the 1 and the top of the 7.  Also the N in ONE and CENT on the rev. looks wrong.  I'm not confident enough to say it's a Chinese fake, but I would pass on it, even at a cheap price.  

It looks like a casting sprue on the top and casting seems sticking out from the edges.  The details are mushy and washed out.  The fabric and texture isn't close to what you would see on a die struck coin.

It's Greek.  Athenian tetradrachm. Unfortunately, yours looks like a cast copy. 

On 8/11/2021 at 11:37 PM, Quintus Arrius said:

[..............

Note:  With the 🐓 man, you come to expect the unexpected: outrageous, biting commentary. And you get it. I never disappoint.   

Don't sell yourself short.  There are many times when you disappoint. 

Now this guy is the real 🐓 man

Your piece is not the 1951 commemorative nickel.  It's a medallion.

As @Jason Abshier pointed out, the commem does not have The Big Nickel or Sudbury Ontario on it.  Also notice how it is much larger than a regular nickel. 

https://en.numista.com/catalogue/exonumia32989.html

On 8/10/2021 at 2:04 PM, Thomas Beers said:

How does zinc rot happen under a coating 

 

The same way rust occurs on the painted fender of your car.  The playing is very thin and once it's scratched or breached, the zinc is exposed to the environment.  And there are lots of things in the environment that don't play well with Zn.  

On 8/9/2021 at 1:30 PM, Tansineer said:

NGC returned a submission I made. The token tested SILVER in three specific gravity tests and was certified by another TPG as such. I subsequently tested it with an XRF Analyzer, with the result being 80% silver. I included the silver info with my NGC submission. It was returned to me in a body bag, marked "silver plated." NGC obviously never tested the piece to confirm what I sent.

What service was rendered for the fee? Can someone kindly explain this certification process to me that I may comprehend how it's supposed to work?

.

 

 

The xray beam in an XRF penetrates below the surface of the sample.  The penetration can be 100 microns or more depending on the X-Ray energy used by the device and sample composition.  This is deep enough to go through many types of plating (for example, the copper plating on a Lincoln cent is approx 8 microns).

You said your XRF results showed 80% silver.  That only paints part of the picture.  What was the remaining 20%?  How much copper, tin, and zinc?  It's entirely possible that the silver is coming from a plated layer and the remaining signal is coming from the bulk (which you expect to have lower values because it's deeper).  

In addition, an 80% silver alloy seems to be an unusual composition. I would think that standard 90% coin silver or sterling planchets would have been much easier to obtain than a custom alloy.  

While I don't believe the XRF data you provided can definitively confirm that it's plated, I don't think it's unreasonable to make that conclusion, especially if the remaining material has a lot of bronze components.

Just the thoughts of someone who uses XRF, XRD, and SEM/EDS compositional data on a regular basis.