Oldhoopster

A missing mint mark on a proof die = significant. 

Die crack on a proof coin = meh.  

Granted, minor errors like die cracks are much scarcer on proof issues because of the slow throughput and increased opportunity for detection, and It probably warrants a modest premium, trying to compare the desirability to a missing mm doesn't cut it.

FWIW, I do like your coin.

On 8/3/2021 at 7:28 PM, Quintus Arrius said:

@Oldhoopster. I am ashamed to say I no longer own a single copy of a coin book, newspaper, journal, tract, or advertisement.

Are you serious?  You don't have books?  No references?  No nothing?  

You must either have one heck of an extensive and highly organized set of internet bookmarks or have an absolute miserable time trying to do any research.  I probably open a book every time I look at a coin. Oh well, to each us own 

Is the resolution of your scale 1 gram, 0.1 grams, or 0.01 grams.

Assuming the balance is level and calibrated, If you only have 1 gram resolution, your coin could weigh anywhere between 2.5 and 3.4 grams.  With 0.1 resolution, it could weigh any where between 2.95 and 3.04 grams.  0.01 = 2.995 to 3.005 grams.  

Significant figures are important (as emphasized by my freshman chemistry professor Dr Bentz)

@Woods020 already posted the tolerance.

No

I didn't look it up, but you may need MS67 and more likely MS68 or higher, to have a chance of making it worth more than the grading fees.  Now, notice the marks on your coin.  Ding on the rim above the G in GOD, ding behind Lincolns shoulder, ding on the pillars, a couple scratches and marks under the memorial, ding under the C.  And that's just what I can quickly see from a pic that was taken from an angle.  

In circulated rolls of Lincoln Memorial cents are readily available and consequently the majority have very little value.  However, your cent would make a nice addition to an album set.  

You should check out some if the pics on auction sites of MS68 and higher cents to get an idea of what is required to meet these grades.

Where did you get the coin?  Can You trace it back to Adams, Merkin, or one of the early sales?  Did it come frm a high ranking mint employee or someone who was working on mint product development in 1964?  

If it just came from a mint set or other source, then you're probably out of luck. 

IMO, This is another gray area.  Are these truly SMS strikes as touted during their discovery in the late 80s, or are they nothing more than first strike coins.  More research is needed, but until then, provenance is as important as die markers.

It's from Great Britain, not Australia.  Looks like it's been cleaned, otherwise ok shape.  It's a common date, so not worth much.

You can look it up at https://en.numista.com/catalogue/index.php?ct=coin

Struck from a very worn die.  Go to www.doubleddie.com and click on the "worthless doubling" tab for a good explanation of this type of non-value added doubling

Looks more like die deterioration doubling to me.

I believe it's just some type of random die damage.  Maybe it was hit with a tool or something.  I don't believe it's a die chip (too uniform), nor do I believe it was intentional.  if it was some type of intentional mark, I would expect it to be centered around something, not just a random location.

Just my thoughts.

Your coin has suffered significant environmental damage after it left the mint. I don't see any doubling on the reverse. Anything your seeing us almost certainly due to the damage, not a minting error.  

On 7/20/2021 at 10:27 PM, Tree94 said:

I don’t know if this is weird, but I have this exact same dime! Same date and all

Then you also have a coin that was damaged after it left the mint.

Sorry, but it's only environmental damage.  Not an error of any kind.

The mint stopped punching mint marks into individual dies in 1989, so it isn't a RPM.  Looks more like die deterioration

The following site is very helpful if you want to attribute VAMs

http://www.vamworld.com

Sooner or later, the TV ads will hit from some questionable outfit like the govmint

"Layered in genuine 24 karat gold". "We'll send a second coin for free, just pay a separate handling charge". " A proud heirloom to pass down for generations." Cue in to a scene of an old man  sitting with his grandchild looking at their new family treasure.

Deleted - oops 

I agree with some of the other posts, if you didn't receive what you paid for, send it back.  That being said, if the questionable area was described by the seller or visible in the sellers pics, or you got it at a discount,  then you're stuck with it, IMO.  However, if you paid a fair retail price, then you should receive an accurately graded coin.  So what if it turned in the holder.  That's not your problem.

A simple explanation saying that the reverse spot wasn't visible in the sellers photo and/or it wasn't properly described should be enough.  The key is to notify the seller in a timely manner.  You shouldn't have to eat somebody else's problems if you didn't know about it in advance

Just my opinion

I also believe the OPs coin is a minor clip (incomplete planchet).  The edge appears to show the punch and tear characteristics, and there doesn't look like any evidence of cutting, filing, or grinding.

1 hour ago, Selmz said:

Yes, thank you. I had to look that up but yes. And was going to say , I wiped it a little since I really haven't cleaned the penny, it might've just been a blemish but each time I look closer. It appears to be sort of like a water mark type thing for coins instead of paper money. Something like that to me. But I have yet to obtain magnify glass to check super close next time

 

The mint doesn't use "watermarks" or other devices that are used on paper money.  The following link shows how dies are made. 

Www.doubleddie.com/58201.html

https://www.doubleddie.com

From the link

If it was necessary to have a mint mark on the coins to identify the Mint at which the coins were being produced, the mint mark was the final part of the design added to the working die.  A die maker at the Mint used a thin steel rod (punch) that had the appropriate mint mark letter engraved at the one end.  Holding the mint mark punch in the appropriate position on the working die he tapped the mint mark punch with a mallet to leave an impression of the mint mark on the working die.  It frequently required more than one tap with the mallet to leave a satisfactory impression of the mint mark on the die, and the die maker would repeat the taps with the mallet until the mint mark impression was deemed satisfactory.

The old picture  also from www.doubleddie.com shows a mint engraver punching the mm into a die.  Engraving is a skilled trade and it would be almost impossible for him to put a mm so far away from the required area. Almost like have a professional roofer mistakenly putting shingles on the side of your house instead of the roof

Many members who have answered your post are very knowledgeable of the minting and die making process.  They are telling you that your coin could not have left the mint like that.  They aren't guessing or speculating, they are offering you accurate info based on years of study and experience.