Just Bob

No. Once a die strikes a coin, the minting process is finished. Anything that happens to the coin after that (other than being struck a second time) is considered damage - even if it happens while the coin is being ejected from the machine. So, if a coin is dropped, scratched, bent, sneezed on, or anything else - even while still in the mint building, even while being packaged by the mint - it is still considered damage.

After working for the Maryland and Stonewall plantations in Holmes County, Mississippi, R.Lee "Uncle Buddy" Peaster, along with his wife "Miss Mable," purchased the Dunbarton plantation, and later, the Quofaloma plantation, which adjoined the Dunbarton. This was in 1905, and he ran the store there until 1940, when he turned it over to Mr. Guy Campbell. He also owned a store in Mileston, MS, and is listed as the owner of the Paradise Plantation, although I was unable to find out if this was a separate plantation, or if he changed the name of one that he had purchased earlier. The 5 cent token that I own is listed as an R5 (15-24 known.) There are also 10 cent and one dollar tokens known to exist - both also listed as R5.

That ring looks familiar. Did you post it in another thread here, or on another forum?

I stand corrected.

I would steer clear of that one.

You didn't read every Post in this thread, did you? QA bid on the coin to see what it looks like in hand.

For some reason, I am having a hard time with this one. O-106?

Doesn't look "deep mirror," and doesn't look uncirculated, much less "+++." At $9.99 plus shipping, the price is right for junk silver, though.

Is that the coin that had the stains on the obverse, and spots on the reverse, by "AMERICA"? (No, I didn't remember - I looked up the original post.) It will probably take several months to see some difference. And, even then, it probably won't remove the discoloration.

A related topic: How do you deal with posters who have obvious psychological or mental issues? I don't mean someone who just wants to argue - I mean someone who may actually have a chemical imbalance, or some other issue. I am no psychologist, nor do I have any experience in that area, but I can often recognize when someone views things much differently than most other people. I am referring to posters who are convinced that there are actual images in their coins that were put there by the mint, or that the mint is secretly re-using old U.S. and foreign coins, sending them back through the presses, or that we are all members of some secret society that is trying to keep prices artificially high (or low). . Some of them obsessively read everything they can get their hands on about their coins or the minting process, and apparently latch on to key words or phrases, often applying them wrongly to their situation. Their posts are often rambling, disjointed things, and they obviously assume that we automatically know exactly what they are talking about, when we rarely do. It is easy to criticize them for the way they write or the things they say, but is that always the best response? Does that really improve the situation or solve the problem - not only for them but also for other newbies who read the thread? There is no way for me to view the world the same way they do, so I honestly don't know the best way to respond. My usual approach, once I determine that a poster is not going to agree with my opinion, and is going in a direction that I can't follow, is to just back out of the conversation. I may step in to correct obvious errors that are stated as fact, just to avoid confusion on the part of future readers, but, if I know I can't change someone's mind, I think the best thing for me to do is to stay quiet.

I'm still trying to wrap my head around how this was done. I thought I had it all figured out last night, but then I realized It could not have happened the way I thought. I think I have finally figured out one way it could have happened: Assuming the reverse (Britannia) die was the lower (anvil?) die, and using your estimates of the degree of rotation, it appears that it (the reverse die) rotated clockwise 18 degrees (viewed from the top), and the coin rotated counterclockwise 3 degrees. That would give the second strike the 21 degree counterclockwise rotation of the reverse, and 3 degree clockwise rotation of the obverse. This assumes that the obverse die did not rotate.

The one that is not a nickel is a dime. The other coin is a nickel.

The out-of-alignment, left-tilted numeral 2 marks this as C-3, also known as BW-2 and Breen-2. Bowers gives an estimated population of 5000 to 7,000. This is the variety that was found in the Collins Find of 1894. The picture is a page from Bowers' book Lost and Found Coin Hoards and Treasures.

What was the grade?

Thanks, Greg. You seem to have a knack for locating very interesting and rare pieces. These are no exception.

I don't recall ever having seen one of these before. A few questions: Comparing the shadows, it looks like the "reverse" is incuse. Correct? Since there are no denticles on the "reverse," I assume that it (the die) was not made by pressing the obverse die into the "reverse" die to give it the backwards impression (or vice versa). Any idea how it was made? I notice a difference in the surfaces of the two sides. Is the planchet polished on one side, or is only the obverse die polished? You said these were all together in a mint holder. Are they now in individual holders? Did you have them graded? If so, what was your reason, and why did you choose PCGS?

I need to take a look at my order. I don't remember getting a code either.

In Italy it is called "Polenta," although, over there, it is made from a less starchy variety of corn. (Yes, I do sometimes watch cooking shows .)

I have to ask: What gold coin did you bite?

If I might make a suggestion: What may seem obvious to you with the coin in hand may not be so obvious to those of us viewing the coin. Searching the entire coin on both sides requires a bit of time, which some members may not have. Pointing out in your opening post just where you see something interesting will keep those of us who want to try to help you from having to spend time looking over every letter, numeral, and device. Just a thought. Keep hunting PS: Thanks for the good pics. They were cropped, as clear as can reasonably be expected from a phone, and you posted both sides.

How about this? (That is a gorgeous 50P, by the way)

When you have more invested in your research library than in your coins.

Welcome to the forum. The advice given so far is spot on. Here is a link to a thread by a former member of this site which deals with inherited collections: https://www.ngccoin.com/boards/topic/73947-what-you-need-to-know-inherited-coin-collections/

Welcome to the forum. The first one is a medal commemorating the bicentennial of the state of California. It was designed by artist Thomas Van Sant, and was produced by the Medallic Art Company in 1969, shortly before their move from New York City to Danbury, Connecticut. It was produced in bronze and white metal (or possibly silver - I couldn't find definite info on that one.) The second one is a silver plated Ronald Reagan "Double eagle" commemorative, produced by the National Historic Mint of Westbury, NY. They are fun and interesting collectibles, but given their condition, neither is worth more than a few dollars.

Let's just take the J1315 Trade Dollar pattern as an example. Here are two sets of pictures. The first is the genuine article, which is rare (picture from USPatterns.com). The second is a fake from China, available for about 5 bucks, including shipping. You tell me which one resembles your coin more.