Just Bob

With it behind plastic, not close-up, and a little bit fuzzy when enlarged, it will be impossible to guess a grade (not to mention that the reverse also plays a role in the grade.) I do see what appear to be some tics on the rim, but I can't tell what else might be on the surfaces without closer, clearer pics.

You did some research for yourself before coming here, and you accepted the fact that your coin was normal when another opinion was offered that confirmed your earlier research. Well done. You are miles ahead of many new posters who come here convinced that they have just struck it rich with their latest pocket change/parking lot find. Welcome to the forum. Stick around.

nope

That is a well done presentation.

A few questions: What kind of coins interest you? What are your collecting goals? Is cost an issue? Do you have access to local dealers or coin shows, or will most purchases be from the internet? Honest answers to these question will help us to help you.

I would love that. I would be a buyer at that level, for sure.

I wonder how many coins were ruined by this and other cleaning methods.

I like that they are going to display the book and the letter. That is a much better use of the book than just putting it back on the shelf or selling it as surplus/obsolete material.

$1.37 on 8/6/21 Our hosts have a handy info page here: https://www.ngccoin.com/price-guide/coin-melt-values.aspx

It is an arcade token from Aladdin's Castle, a chain of game rooms formerly found in malls.

Be very careful where I-65 meets I-59/I-20. That is a seriously dangerous intersection. There have been some terrible wrecks there.

I am lazily re-posting something from an earlier thread, but it fits here: What is a "Doo-ga-loo?" you ask. Well, it is a slang name for a trade token. They were also known as Brozenes, Doodlum, or Counters, among other names. These were used in place of money at various times in the past. This particular one is from the 1950s, and was found under the cork in a metal bottle cap.The finder could redeem the token for its face value in cash. Double Cola was one of the popular issuers of these, but this particular one was under the cap of a Big 12 Cola.It is from the town of Macon, Mississippi, and is made of very thin aluminum - so thin that it can be bent quite easily. And, it is only readable from one side, like a dogtag. They were minted in 5 cent and 10 cent denominations, and this one is the former. I also included a picture of one of the bottles, from an Ebay listing.

Did anyone else notice that the coin description gave the composition of aluminum as "95% copper and 5% zinc?" And all this time I thought that was the composition of brass. Shows how much I know, I guess.

Welcome to the forum. I, and most members here, are less worried about being scammed than about coins that are thought to be doubled dies, but turn out to be strike doubling or die erosion doubling, which are worthless. You see, probably 95% of the new posters who come on here think they have something special, when, in fact, they have common types of doubling. I am not saying that your coins are not legitimate doubled dies, but I am saying that some clear, cropped, closeups will be necessary before anyone will consider purchasing your coins. Honestly, I hope all of your coins are legitimate varieties, and you are sitting on a gold mine, but they will have to be seen first, to be believed. Good luck.

Fine

As Greenstang said, there is no Full Step designation for Lincoln cents. Strike weakness on Lincolns tends to show up in "STATES OF."

Possibly, but rarity does not always translate to higher price. There has to be demand for the coin, as well. There are many coins and tokens a few of which are known to exist which sell for much less than the No-S dime. There have to be enough interested collectors to run the price up through competition.

A die crack would likely be more desirable to a variety/error collector, while the the No-S coin would also be sought after by Roosevelt set collectors and registry participants. There are only a dozen or so known to exist, as far as I can remember, so the price would probably run $10k to $30K, depending on condition. I don't see a die crack reaching that price level.

Welcome to the forum. The price in the guide refers to a normal, average-for-the-grade coin, without anything that might add value. These additional things might include doubled dies or re-punched mint marks (varieties), former famous owners (pedigree), labels that have been signed by someone famous, or are special in some other way (label), or First Day of Issue or Early Release type labels (Releases Designation). Be aware that price guide values are normally retail prices, and are not what you could expect a dealer to pay you for your coin.

Happy Birthday!

There are many members here who know much more about tokens and conservation than I, and I suspect that you are one of those. You certainly don't need my advice. But, since we both have been put on the spot, and since you asked, I will respond with some advice that I was given years ago, for the benefit of future readers of this thread. The following quote is compliments of Conder101, responding to a thread in which I had asked for suggestions about conserving a token that I had bought: "Looks like active corrosion. Might try a soak in an oil based product such as olive oil, mineral oil or blue ribbon, then use a rose thorn to remove any loosened corrosion product. You may have to do a few cycles of soak then thorn. (The thorn is also good for getting any dirt or "crud" out from around the devices, it is soft enough it should not scratch, strong enough to dig out the crud, and comes to a small enough point that it gets into the smallest places.) Then use acetone to remove all of the oil and to throughly dry the token. (one thing the corrosion need to work is to water and the rough area of the corrosion will hold onto water molecules very well. The acetone gets in there and "dissolves" out the water and carries it off. It acts as a drying agent.) After the acetone you might want to then apply a very thin layer of blue ribbon or mineral oil to the token to seal out moisture from the corrosion area. (The oil fills the nooks and crannies in the corrosion keeping the water vapor in the air out of them.) Now the corroded areas will still look rough and pitted but it should look better than the active corrosion and will help stop it from getting any worse."

DED is not as catchy as DDD. Proper acronyms are very important in numismatics.

Here is the description of 9-I in Davignon, 2nd edition: Cast copy of O-111? I centered below right side of E (That has to be a typo - the I is under the right side of the "T") Les - Below stand of D Res - Between A and M (near M) Obv. Star 7 points to junction of curl and headband. Date is low. Rev. C. in 50C is mostly below olive stem. Copper. Very scarce Conder101 is correct about the look of your piece. It shows much less wear than the one in the book.

History by Gil Hoffman: On June 5, 1901, the May-Easterling Lumber Company, composed of Felix A. May and E. H. Easterling, purchased the timber holdings of C. J. Gray, at Ora, Covington County for $30,480. In March 1902 Felix May and other small stockholders sold their stock to F. C. A. Denkmann and associates, of Rock Island, Illinois. E. H. Easterling, president of the May-Easterling Lumber Company, remained with the company. The company was reorganized as the Easterling Lumber Company, with sales office at Rock Island. The assets were transferred to the Easterling Lumber Company on May 5, 1902, for $75,000 cash. On June 5, 1917, the mill property was sold to the Tallahala Lumber Company, of Ellisville, Jones County. All of these tokens, with the exception of the $1 and $2, are common. There is also an octagonal $5 token that is very rare (probably only two, or maybe three, known to exist.) I kept the same setting and distance for all of the pictures, to give an idea of the relative size of the tokens.

You obviously didn't get the fact that Kurt was talking to Travis Carpenter when he said that. He wasn't talking to you or about you. So, you cussed at him for nothing.