Just Bob

Click the envelope at the top right of your screen (on your phone, touch the three horizontal bars, then the envelope), click "Compose new," enter JAA in the "TO" box, and select his name from the list (there is also a member named Jaa88). I have no idea if he is active on the site, but it is the only way I know to contact a member, unless he has his email listed on his information page.

Starting from the left: Dateless Indian Head (Buffalo) nickels go for less than a dollar apiece, unless it is a 1913 type 1, in which case you might get 2 dollars from someone looking for a hole filler. Hard to say whether it is a type one or type two, without a picture of the reverse. (Take a look Here to learn the difference between the two types.) Second coin is a French 1 Franc, .835 fine silver. Actual silver weight: .1342 oz. Mintage of over 92 million. A quick Ebay search shows them having sold for $4-$8, more or less. Again, with no picture of the obverse, it is impossible to grade your coin, but I would value it at around 5 dollars at most. Third coin looks like a King George the Fifth Florin from Great Britain. The other side should have a portrait of George V facing left with an inscription around, reading: GEORGIVS.V D.G.BRITT:OMN:REX F.D.IND:IMP: The mintage was just over 4.5 million, and it is 50% silver. Recent Ebay sales show them selling for $5 - $9. None of this information took much time or effort to gather, and it is something interesting that you can learn to do for yourself, if you choose to do so. NGC's world coin price guide is HERE Numista, a good source for information, is RIGHT HERE If you are going to search pocket change, I recommend starting out by learning how dies are made. It will help you determine whether something is an error/variety, or just damage. John Wexler's site, which has this information, and lots of other interesting reading, is Here

You could either ask the NGC member JAA, whose medal you linked above, or you can contact Cookie Jar Collectibles at: Ray Czahor Cookie Jar Collectibles Box 597 Columbia, MD 21045 Telephone: 301-604-9225 Email: cookiejarpi@verizon.net After a bit more looking, you may have trouble contacting Mr. Czahor. The website is not working, and the trade status of the business is listed as "Forfeited." He may have passed away, or at least ceased doing business.

Welcome to the forum. There are chemical dips available that will do minimal harm (notice I did not say no harm). Their use is frowned on by many, but there are some collectors who like bright white coins. Whatever you do, do not use anything abrasive, or rub the coin in any way, or your coin will likely be ruined. Try to post some pictures and let us see what the toning looks like before you try to clean it.

Be aware that not everything posted on Youtube is factual. The fact that something is hyped up online does not make it true. Videos are designed to get views and likes, not to make you rich. While it is possible to find something interesting in change every now and then, the odds of finding something valuable are very slim, and the odds of finding something that will make you rich are almost non-existant.

I see no evidence of the Blakesly effect, so I am not convinced it is a clip. I al leaning toward post mint damage.

Although none of these tokens is rare, it took me about a year to accumulate all of the different varieties. The distinctive reverse of some of the brass tokens - "IN MDSE" on a banner overlaying the denomination - is recognizable as a product of Meyer & Wenthe, a token and badge manufacturer in Chicago. I have not been able to determine if they made all of the other styles, but the fact that the obverses are the same on the brass examples, plus the use of the "IN MDSE" wording on one style of the plastic tokens, makes me think that they were all made by the same company.

Welcome to the forum. I am not affiliated with NGC in any way, but I can assure you that they have plenty of experience in handling multi-million dollar coins of all types. Your coin is in good hands. As far as what may account for the delay, I can only imaging that they are working in very strained conditions, due to the current situation with the Covid-19 virus. Imagine having to sanitize every package that ships in and out of there, and having to stop working and constantly sanitize during the day. It has to slow things down considerably.Acceptable, or not, "Be patient" is probably the best advice anyone can give you right now. Since you posted this on the open forum, I am going to ask: What kind of coin did you send in?

On the upper left of each numeral in the date and on the mint mark is a light colored line. It is caused either by the reflection of the light, or by doubling on the coin - most likely deteriorated die doubling - or both. Eliminating the reflection will help a viewer to determine the cause of the line.

I love it when a companion piece shows up. It just makes collecting that much more fun and rewarding. Congrats!

From the PCGS website: "Fully struck and lustrous, free of visual marks. The PCGS 70 grading standard does allow for "as minted" defects, as long as those flaws are minor and do not impact the eye appeal of the coin." Punctuation errors are theirs.

I am having a hard time with this one - trying to decide if I think it is real or not. I am not doubting you or your father's ability to detect a fake coin; it is just that this is a really popular type, due to the Bible connection, and is definitely ripe for fakers to exploit. I think, if it were mine, I would have it authenticated somewhere - either by sending it to NGC, or by taking it to an Ancients expert. That is, if some of the really knowledgeable Ancient folks on here don't give you an answer one way or the other.

That quote is from our host's page on coin grading. This is just my opinion, but I gather that since the mark was judged to have been made pre- or during production, it qualifies as a 70. I personally think it should disqualify it, but I don't make the rules. It does not add any value to the coin.

Then I don't know what to tell you. I will bow out of this conversation, and let someone else have a go.

I don't "clearly see" anything. The pictures are much too blurry. I can tell you this much, though. Your coin does not have a 2 over a 3, or a 3 over a 2.

You need to send them an additional $100. Or, better yet, send it to me, and I will see that this matter is taken care of .

Compare your coin to these pictures,and you will see that yours is a large date: (notice the curve of the "2" and the distance from its base to the coin's rim)

They are legal tender, if they are real Kennedy half dollars. You can save them or spend them, because they are only worth 50 cents.

I am totally confused by this post.

Apparently I have done something that I don't know how to fix. Sorry about the two page post. It is not the DDO-001 (FS101). Here is the description from Variety Vista: "Description: Medium spread on earlobe with extra thickness on LIBERTY and IN GOD WE TRUST." "Comments: Zinc. Obverse is ODV-031 (Large date)." Yours is a Small Date. Here is a picture of the earlobe separation:

Wow! What a great piece! Congratulations on your fantastic score, Jason!

Thank you. And, good luck.

I looked at all of the known RPMs, and did not find one that I thought matched exactly. Are you going to try sending a picture to Wexler or Wiles to see if this is a new one? That would be cool, if I were wrong and it turned out to be the real thing. Does "Sai" mean something?

Many of these were re-plated with zinc to make them more appealing to buyers. This may account for at least some of the additional weight. The tolerance for these is +/- .13 grams. The planchets produced in 1942 weighed 2.689 grams (41.5 grains), and the ones minted later in 1943 weighed 2.754 grams (42.5 grains).

It looks to be in a 2 x 2, so I am assuming it is for sale on the web. Did the seller mention the damage, and is the discount from the normal price commensurate with the amount of damage? And, most importantly: did I use "commensurate" correctly?