Just Bob

Is there an award named after Chester Krause?

Is there a rule that says the award can not be named for a person who is still living?

Is there an accurate record of the number of pieces melted?

Sorry. I copy/pasted the proof page, but the link went to the MS page. As Coinbuf said above, look on the right side of the page, and you will se a slide labelled MS/PF. Click the PF, and you should see 4 pictures. Compare your coin to the pictures, and you will see what you have.

In 1979, mint marks were still being punched into the working die by hand. The "S" punch used on these dollar coins was worn down to the point of resembling more of a blob than a letter. This is referred to as the "Type 1" mint mark. A new mint mark punch was made, and used in the latter part of the year. This is called the "Type 2" mint mark. The actual number of each type minted is unknown, but the "Type 2" is the scarcer of the two. This new punch was used until some time in 1981, when it was replaced by one with a slightly different style "S." So, the 1979 "Type 2" became the 1981 "Type 1," which was replaced by a different "Type 2." If that is confusing, take a look at the pictures on the page linked below, and they should help make things a bit more clear: https://www.ngccoin.com/variety-plus/united-states/dollars/anthony-dollars-1979-1999/?page=1

Larger, closer, clearer pictures would be a big help, but, I feel like you're going to find that this actually is a scratch or cut that raised a line of metal. I've been wrong before, though.

Wow! How did I miss that mint mark!? Sorry about that, Vero. Rookie mistake on my part.

No need to apologize. This is the newbie forum, after all, and most of us don't mind first-timer questions. Grade is around VF, so value is equal to the silver content, or maybe a bit more. Mintage was 51,737,000, so it is a common coin. Still, any silver dollar is cool to own, so enjoy it. And, welcome to the forum.

Don't have a clue. I just posted that to see who I would get a rise out of. I don't follow football at all. Unlike many people in the South, I don't let the performance of a bunch of twenty-somethings determine whether or not I have a good day /week/year.

That's because a three-loss SEC team is still a better team than anyone else in the country, with the possible exception of a few teams from the center of the US, like Nebraska, Oklahoma, or Texas. (And maybe Michigan, every now and then.)

I hope you are banned soon. Pushing software that helps a college student cheat is despicable. Copying another post word for word, and posting as your own reply is just as bad. I am probably talking to a computer program, but at least I got that off my chest.

That is a copy. Available on Ebay for $6.99 plus shipping.

It has another error, too. Weinman's name is spelled wrong. I wonder how they came up with a figure of 1000% for the "AVG INCREASE IN VALUE." The card is copyrighted 1992, and the price of silver then was running $3.75 to $4.00 per ounce. That puts the melt value at 28 - 30 cents. Oldhoopster is right. That was a lot of trouble for a coin that you could have picked up at a coin show for probably 50 cents. Still, it is interesting, at least to me. I think the holder is worth more than the coin.

On the 1970 cent, remember that Low=Large. That may not make any sense at this point, but it will, once you see the difference in the shape of the "9" and the placement of the "7".

I was just pointing out that the post by Greg (gmarguli) was sarcasm.

I was having this issue on my phone (Android), but not my laptop (Edge). Checking the "Remember Me" box seems to have solved the problem. Now, if I could get rid of that annoying pop-up that wants me to sign up for the monthly newsletter...

Welcome to the forum.

Take a look at this page by our hosts: https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-grading/grading-scale/

Strike, luster, surface preservation (contact marks, wear, etc.) color, and eye appeal all play a part in a coin's grade. The amount of weight placed on each depends on the grader or grading company. A strong strike for the series/year does sometime seem to have an effect on the grade. So does nice toning. Long story short: grading is still just an opinion.

Another good show report, as usual! Those are some really nice looking proof Indians that you picked up. Love those Conder tokens, too. I am not a fan of Outback, myself. I have tried them 6 or 7 times, thinking that they might have improved, but I have never liked their food. I refuse to go there any more.

OP, don't forget to include diameter in Millimeters, and weight in Grams. I can assure you that JKK will not even crack open the first book until he has this info.

This appears to be the larger of the two: https://en.numista.com/catalogue/pieces50626.html As far as whether or not your coin is authentic, comparing size and weight to the specs given will be a good place to start.

So.... let's see some of those coins. I am not the Ancients guru that some are - JKK in particular - but I do like to try my hand at identification every now and then. Just remember, Andrew: "close, clear, and cropped" is the description of the pictures we like. (And right-side-up, if you know which way it goes. That part is not always easy to determine.) One coin per thread, so no one gets confused, and don't forget size and weight.

I am not trying to make any enemies, OP, but I still have not gotten past the fact that a member named "Jerry Picker" was "picked" by a "Cherry Picker."