Woods020

Here's NGC photos of the coin. I now realize the importance of good photos!
 
Graded AU58

Nice Tennessee quarter.  I especially like the part that says Louisiana. 

You know more than you think, Woodsie. 

Im working on a set of these also. 

The middle two are circulation strikes. Easiest way to tell, other than the overall look of the coin, is the eagle's feathers for Franklin halves after '56. Three to the left of the perch for proofs, four for circulating coins. Neither coin looks like it would be worth having graded based on condition. If either are a DD then maybe. 

It's a big ol' no, and NGC is not going to change that policy. 

These two coins side by side can teach you a lot. Notice the difference in the rims on the two coins. Proof coins as you will see have a squared rim, and this is a good diagnostic. 

See the information LemE provided on your other nickel post. I think you incorrectly assume proofs have always been struck in San Francisco. The dime on the right is a normal Philly struck proof. 

Looks like a proof to me. Jefferson proofs were minted in Philadelphia from 1938 to 1942 and again from 1950 to 1964. No proofs were made in 65,66, and 67. Beginning in 1968 they were struck at the San Francisco mint. The Philly proofs do not carry a mint mark.

And there are the cleaning signs I was fairly certain weren’t coming though on the processed pics. I’m confident it won’t straight grade. And conservation can do nothing to reverse that. 
 
Aside from the cleaning it still wouldn’t be a 64 or 65 coin. 

And there are the cleaning signs I was fairly certain weren’t coming though on the processed pics. I’m confident it won’t straight grade. And conservation can do nothing to reverse that. 
 
Aside from the cleaning it still wouldn’t be a 64 or 65 coin. 

Agreed on the 14 vs 36. I was simply saying I like it better. I have a 39 proof walking lib half in a 67 CAC and I don’t like it at all. The reverse is nice and sharp, but the obverse is so so. 

Well this is the reason I said that the whole position only applied to the silver proofs. It’s unfair to compare the cents and nickels because there is not a fair way to compare a change in polish technique when the early proofs weren’t polished in 1936 because they were satin. However, the silver proofs were always polished so we can analyze the difference in polishing techniques during the year.
If you had two different halves, quarters, or dimes from early and late 1936 then you would notice more why I was talking about, and that is why I used half dollar images. 
 
1936-1942 proofs are a place where if you know what you are looking for, you can get truly fantastic coins for the same price as absolutely ugly ones. You have to put grade aside at times to achieve this though, as for this series grade oftentimes does not relate to the most attractive examples IMO. 
 
Also, the matte proofs of 1914 were of higher detail and a different proof production process than the satin proofs of 1936. The hubs had more detail from less use so it is also unfair to compare the amount of detail between matte and satin proofs.

The detail itself is changed for the brilliant coin, due to the polish. Look at the front tuft of grass on the mound and you will see it is nearly gone on the brilliant proof coin whereas on the satin proof coin it is fully and completely there.
Satin proofs were struck nearly identically in comparison to the brilliant proofs, the difference was that they were struck once with new dies at high pressure in a medal press. This created noticeable differences in detail due to the higher pressure, slower speed, and use of a hydraulic medal press.
I will say that there is very little optical illusion. I could find a colorless satin proof and show you the same things as I did with the toned one, because it will have better detail. I have yet to see any brilliant proof from 1936 that has detail that nears that of a satin proof from 1936. Hope this answers your question!

Welcome to the forum. To start with please post good clear pics of both sides of any coin you have a question about. To answer your questions even though I see a small portion of each the answers is an easy no. Neither would be worth the cost of the grading after they are in a slab.

Wishing you a speedy recovery!

It is a nice album coin, but not one worth grading. Enjoy it in an album or the capsule it is in now. 
As far as the steps comment that you were confused about, on Jefferson nickels those with full steps are sought after. This is often an area of weakness on these coins so those with full steps demand a premium. In some years it is a very very large premium, but 50-d is a common year with full steps. The comment regarding the steps was a way of saying it was not full steps. 
Here is a good article to read about grading and full steps on Jefferson nickels:
Learn Grading: What Are 5FS and 6FS? | NGC (ngccoin.com)
 

Welcome to the forum. To start with please post good clear pics of both sides of any coin you have a question about. To answer your questions even though I see a small portion of each the answers is an easy no. Neither would be worth the cost of the grading after they are in a slab.

Welcome to the forum. To start with please post good clear pics of both sides of any coin you have a question about. To answer your questions even though I see a small portion of each the answers is an easy no. Neither would be worth the cost of the grading after they are in a slab.

I’m with Coinbuf I don’t see anything that conserving would impact. I don’t believe NGC would in any way say this is a candidate. 
 
I also agree that this is not a 65 coin. I believe these pictures actually show the coin better than it is. 

Not for any mixed company that is a fan of the Marine Corps, they’re not. My wife would just LOVE to smack Steve in the face. LITERALLY. 

Another 'Fantasy' coin as posted on You Tube.  Stack's can't wait to get their hands on this   

Yes, Samford’s  pharmacy school does rank very highly. It competes well with the Philadelphia College of Pharmacy and Science. 

That particular ego needs a full  juice purge followed by a strict fast. Only the posterior competes for size.