Jason Abshier

To this day I never ever owned a graded silver eagle let alone a proof , I go to any coin show there is not one dealer who doesn’t have a stock pile of silver eagles you can buy they are a beautiful bullion coin , I can’t see myself paying high premium for a graded silver eagle unless I was building registry set it makes sense , they were massed produced in high mintage figures nothing to write back home about 

Oh , I forgot unless you have 1995-W silver eagle proof that’s worth getting graded even in 69 grade they bring strong premiums 

That’s a matter of what you prefer ? Would you rather them be graded for resale value ? Or do you prefer just looking at them from time to time in the original boxes without worrying about grades ? A lot collectors buy silver eagles keep them in original boxes , some prefer graded coins PF70 grades for registry sets … If you did send one in and get the PF70 grade you could sell it for nice premium but otherwise 69 grade is a typical graded coin with a slight small premium (considering grading and slabbing fees) compared to Raw silver eagle in a box that covers not much to profit there money wise … It all comes down to what do you choose it’s your coin there are registry collectors out there probably looking for earlier year proofs in top pop grades most of them earlier proofs sometimes tarnish a little from not being stored properly over all the years therefore they won’t get 70 grade 

10 hours ago, Kevine84 said:

How could you be a professional grader and miss anything, minor or not?  

If your speaking of variety tier during grading , I believe they have may have a knowledgeable grader who knows more about variety coins and error coins . The other typical graders grade the average typical coins , they may also grade your coin that you think is a variety . At the end they probably land on grader’s desk who is more experienced at looking at error coins to determine if it’s really a variety or error or not that’s why you probably pay and extra fee they have to do extra leg work look up the type of variety . 

3 hours ago, Kevine84 said:

I see.  

Do you know how or where I can find values for these?

 

I see them on the web and they saeem to be abler to significantly affect pricing.

I believe there is “no real value” specifically for BIE variety cents it’s more of error coin market there really no hardcore market value to determine or to decide what real price should be  you can look at some of BIE cents get idea what they “maybe selling for” doesn’t mean “who buying them at that price” I see a lot BIE cents with odd prices , they are just sit there until someone willing to pay that price or haggle the price down to buy it if they want it badly enough … The BIE cents are not no where near caliber of a more popular 1955 double die cent or 1972 double die cent , or 3 legged Buffalo five cent , 1942/41 mercury dimes those coins are more appreciated among collectors they bring nicer handsome premium gives a more solid price range on the market.

if you like them , then enjoy hunting down all odd year “BIE” Cents you can find don’t worry about price point , set your goals on what you can find , price point I can’t really help you there I never see any solid market price guides or anything specifically for “BIE” cents or other odd die struck errors  

The BIE is a variety I think grading companies don’t bother listing it on slab cause it’s common variety on Lincoln wheat cent through the years 

1 hour ago, Woods020 said:

One of my far too many hobbies is long range shooting. It takes forever to work up a load for a new gun and barrel. If you see a guy with a chronograph, taking notes, etc. he is trying to work out a lot of things  Then once you have them figured out you can calculate your ballistics and effect of the round from cross winds, heat, and all the other factors  

I have a friend who into that long range bench shooting , when ever they go black bear hunting they set up long range gun (some caliber I never heard of) 2 years ago they shot a black bear at little over 900 yards , a group of hunters pushed the bear out it ran up mountain top stepped out on open powerline 900 yards away … that’s furthest they ever killed anything it was 435lbs black bear … 

last year I helped another friend move a lathe and milling machine in his garage he was starting a gunsmithing business , he showed me a couple of bench guns he made in gunsmithing school , Man ! Them things weighed a tank ! Big fat barrels with long scopes made gun weigh like it was 30lbs ! The other month I was visiting him he was turning down threads on barrel to fit a receiver in his lathe the barrel had carbon wrap around it I’ve never see that before a carbon wrapped barrel also I never knew bench guns were that heavy … I’m mostly a shotgun guy , I do a lot rabbit hunting with beagles shotgun is my primary weapon of choice in thick thick brush and brambles shooting at rabbits 

1 hour ago, zadok said:

many of the best rifles in the world n their associated scopes or fixed sights r calibrated in metres (meters) versus yards...from personal experience almost all i have used were in metres with a few exceptions on US sniper rifles which still adhere to yards....

Many years ago a Marine on shooting range once told me I can sight my 30/06 Remington 760 pump rifle dead on a 25 yards it will be able to shoot me out to 200 yards still on vital target of a deer … I’m not a rifleman I only own 1 deer rifle for over 35 years I’ve used Remington 760 gamemaster (30/06) with factory ammo since I’ve sighted it in at 25 yards it hold true on deer out 200 yards rarely do I shoot that far anyways most of deer are killed within 150 yards or less but I know that gun isn’t deadly accurate but for deer hunting a sloppy pump rifle does the job it ain’t no where as accurate as my son’s (.270 Remington 700 classic bolt action) ,my daughter uses a (.308 Remington 700 as well bolt action) both their gun can shoot a half dollar group at 150 yards … in Pennsylvania we call the Remington 760 pump rifles “the Amish machine gun” since we aren’t allowed to use semiautomatic rifles for big game hunting the Amish use Pump rifles a lot nice gun for fast follow up shots when it needed but again I’ve seen some guys use a bolt action that seemed faster than I can rack the pump on my rifle 

12 hours ago, RWB said:

Used to line up silver dollars as targets at about 25 meters

Were you in the military? When you say meters , my oldest son is a Marine when ever he can come home to hunt with me he takes the opportunity last year he harvested a deer he said   “Dad I shot this deer at about 100 meters” we all say “yards” although meters are longer than yards I’m just not used to hearing meters all time … I notice military people use meters more than yards to describe distance 

12 hours ago, Alex in PA. said:

I have been known to hit a Kennedy Half Dollar at 50 yards, off hand, with a Thompson Center Hawken .50 Cal single shot

Ever shoot golf balls with a shotgun ? I used bring few golf balls with me toss them out in front of the barrel hold gun up to my shoulder one handed while other hand tossed ball out in front of gun if you hit it right that ball will fly like 400-500 yards like a rocket . I didn’t hit every golf ball but I hit most of them I learn that trick from Tom Knapp shotgunning trick shooter … Right now ammo too precious and hard to come by and too expensive you won’t find me goofing off and shooting golf balls this year. I mostly shoot oddball gauges like 16GA and 28GA ammo real PITA to find for those 2 gauges even online everywhere is sold out ! Back order ! All stores are stripped cleaned no ammo , private sellers want like $20 a box for basic shotgun ammo . I hope the ammo craze ends sooner return back to normal 

I myself like the reverse of coin as well . I’m desperately waiting for 2021 knights of the past coin to be released sure looks cool ! How much detail can you ask for on a coin ? Doesn’t get any better than this !

at one time PCGS was strictly PCGS registry only , I believe they did for business purposes have people buy their graded coins and register them with them only … I guess NGC was being taken advantage of allowing PCGS coins in registry, it’s no brainer that NGC finally put a stop to that … both grading companies grade world coins even US coins at different standard … I believe your only option is a cross over to NGC … 

On 6/4/2021 at 6:35 PM, James Zyskowski said:

Thanks again I’m enjoying this lesson and ouch it’s not as bad as all that. Anyway swinging in a new direction didn’t have a gator but we do have this 

If you’re interested in collecting silver bullion coins take a look at the Germania Mint , they started doing a series of coins few years ago . So far I collected all the Germania series BU and for Allegories series I collected all of BU and 2 proofs which were 1000 mintage only I had to order my proofs from a dealer in Germany they were real hard to find in US , however the BU 1oz issues are nice and easier to find in the US they have mintage 25,000 coins but they are becoming hot property a lot bidding going on for them … At the end of this year I’ll be sending mine in for grading at NGC , I’m still waiting on 2 more Germania mint coins to come in 1 proof and 1 BU both came from German dealer … They got some cool stuff they are making with low mintages like I said the proofs are very hard to find . But some of BU Germania silver rounds can be found on eBay here and there 

https://germaniamint.com

If you really wanna hit your set out in the ball park don’t forget $1 Goldie and half dollar is probably the most rarest to find in the parking lot edition. 

I once did a tour in Philadelphia mint , asked what was that box in corner for ? they said it was all the rejected, scrap error coins go help yourself . JK ! I’m sure a lot theft went on at mints undetected over all the years especially during the hard times it’s a no wonder why they have strict security and metal scanners along with. x-Ray machines to check workers out before and after they leave the job now a days 

23 minutes ago, James Zyskowski said:

Is the burnished ase considered bullion at 138,000 + mintage its the lowest of the burnished Plus sold way different than bulk. There is a W mint mark. You all are starting to confuse me??

Certain years are low mintage the burnish type is worthy of being in slab along with key date years and proof versions … All the other were massed produced typical strikes worth nothing but their melt value , but a typical silver eagle graded at MS69 then try sell it back to dealer the next day they either give on spot or just tiny tad lower then ask them why ? They will tell you they treat it as bullion nothing special , but when they sold it to you they acted like it was glorious coin of all silver eagles ! That’s typical cause they made money off you … The only ones making money off bullion is the dealers who have stock pile of MS70s and PF70s ready to sell to people who are hungry enough to pay out a handsome premium for that coin like VCurtB said try to recoup your cost if you try sell it you’ll be outta luck even the dealer won’t pay you 1/2 (half) of what that MS70 or PF70 coin is worth only to (you as the buyer) will take the hit , it leaves you stuck trying to offload it on to another collector if they want it really badly ! That’s why we see these 70 coins for sale all over Ebay they sit there waiting and waiting for a buyer the prices are to ridiculously high , a person has better shot somedays buying few of their own raw and sending it in for grading they might get lucky to get a 70 grade if it really matters they call them “value trap coins” you get stuck in the trap 

On 5/15/2021 at 2:17 PM, RWB said:

The chances of avoiding spots on coins increases if it is left in the original plastic holder.  No TPG publishes their clean room certification - if any have it - but I really doubt any would meet ISO 8. If you want to encapsulate coins, I suspect ISO 6 would be required - possibly ISO 5 if tests show contamination on real-world samples in the immediate handling/assembly/packaging areas.

Check here for clean room standards.

https://www.americancleanrooms.com/cleanroom-classifications/#iso

I was once told that TPG also uses a blast of air before encapsulated coins , if that air line has tiny droplets of moisture in it , too late it landed on the coin . I know for a fact air lines build up moisture I’ve seen it myself if hold air line up to light watch it come out in sharp mist . I don’t know if the TPG is using air compressed air for blowing the coins before encapsulating ? Perhaps maybe you heard what they use or not ? 

2 hours ago, VKurtB said:

I still remember what the Mint said about these in 1986. Not intended to be collectibles. A pure bullion play. People don’t listen, right?

Only reason why I think we see so much large bulk loads of bullion , fantasy coins , colorized weird coins being graded these days is what else is there to keep grading companies busy and making money ? They can’t sit around waiting on dealers and collectors to send in 8-10 classic coins every few months that doesn’t make much money or keep business going 

To this day I don’t own a graded silver eagle . But if one is buying 69s at cheap price no harm there but sooner or later they will change over the years , I can’t see myself buying 70 grade at high price then say 6-10 years later it starts getting freckles everywhere on coin and nobody willing to pay price of 70 grade anymore It’s now worth nothing but melt value , but to each their own do what they want . The proof version I can see people getting that one graded but regular business strikes nah ! 

The front of the coin looks “Very Fine” , but the back of the coin is worn down more looks “very good” or “good”  2 different grades on that coin if you look at it that way but eagle is pretty worn down to the shield 

2 hours ago, LLC0669 said:

I don't have a lot of money for collecting

When I was younger and my kids were little I barely had any money for collecting those kids literally sucked the life out of me, I was working 2 full time jobs as well . I used save up little money each month at end of year around Christmas time I would buy myself a few coins. Now a days the kids are all grown up and moved out of the house I have freedom to buy coins on monthly basic . I often said “collecting isn’t about how much money you have , it’s about the love and passion for collecting” these days everyone new joining the hobby thinking they have buy expensive coins to be part of the hobby it’s not about that .

Welcome to coin collecting ! First thing to do is learn how to grade coins buy books or study online at graded coins . Secondly look online see if your coins are “common date” coins most coins are common. Third , depends on how many coins you want to send for grading ? Grading isn’t cheap when you add it all up + shipping + insurance to ship Thats (both ways to the grading company and back). Those are some of things you need think about , perhaps you might be able to sell your common coins , save up a little more money and just buy the same coins already slabbed/graded from a dealer . I see a lot common coins are in graded holders already there no need for me to buy them raw and go through hassle shipping them to grading company ...

However I myself collect old old world coins sometimes I do buy them raw when I get about 10-12 raw coins I’ll send them in for grading . Usually it’s only for coins that are valued over $100 I feel they should be in graded holders. That’s just me , I even have Raw gold coins that look nice but I won’t send them in grading just because it’s gold means nothing to me other than precious metal . I also have a lot raw silver bullion from around world as well, I’ve see some people had them graded then try sell them Online for a wacky high price just because it was graded and slabbed doesn’t mean anyone buying it so sometimes a lot coins aren’t just worth grading . But there that’s old saying “to each their own, do as they please for themselves” it’s your money do what you want to do 

You don’t have buy graded gold , you can buy them raw and put them in air tite capsules buying graded assures you some what it been authenticated ... There’s a lot neat gold coins out there at affordable prices if search around on private dealer website you’ll find gold coins to be priced correctly  my list of gold that I collected over the years 

German 10 Mark , 20 Mark gold 

Venezuela 10 Bolivares Gold 

American gold eagle 

$2.50 quarter eagles 

gold Libertads  

mexcio 2 peso gold 

12 hours ago, KerstynLee said:

Just wanted to clarify the penny IS silver, the lighting is low in my dining room.

It’s also possible you have a Lincoln cent struck on a silver dime planchet it’s hard for me to tell but that’s what it looks like (cents back then were mostly copper unlike cents we have today are mostly zinc with copper layer on it . silver dime planchet is a dead give away . I’m assuming that why it looks like silver )  , if it is they are worth some money to an error coin collector 

Sorry for your loss. You can find a whole set of pennies online or perhaps a local coin dealer in your area can put a whole set of circulates Lincoln cents together for you . My biggest fear when I pass away is my wife and kids sell my collection off at what I told them I paid for it , or denomination on coin I can imagine my wife selling off my $2.50 gold Indians at $2.50 (she would probably say boy ! That guy sure wasted time putting a collection together for a coin worth $2.50) I’ll have to remind my kids to bury me with my collection