Coinbuf

Congrats on your achievement 

It all looks like standard strike/mechanical doubling, I'm not seeing any split serfs and as @powermad5000 mentioned it appears to be shallower and shelf like vs the primary lettering.   The lighting is harsh so maybe in hand it presents differently, but from what I see just MD.

Basement slabbers have been around for decades, nothing really new and not really much that anyone can do about it.   Yes this type of junk or dreck as it is called at times can and does have the unfortunate effect of deterring some new collectors.   On a bright note, at $4.50 the seller is not really ripping anyone off when you consider that your Barber dime is worth $1.65 in silver value alone, assuming it is real.    This type of thing is only an issue when the coin is a counterfeit and the money is more significant, I get that we shouldn't tolerate this at any level, but this is not the hill I would die over personally.

Basement slabbers have been around for decades, nothing really new and not really much that anyone can do about it.   Yes this type of junk or dreck as it is called at times can and does have the unfortunate effect of deterring some new collectors.   On a bright note, at $4.50 the seller is not really ripping anyone off when you consider that your Barber dime is worth $1.65 in silver value alone, assuming it is real.    This type of thing is only an issue when the coin is a counterfeit and the money is more significant, I get that we shouldn't tolerate this at any level, but this is not the hill I would die over personally.

First welcome to the forum, second your post is rather vague, what is it that you want to do.   Are you looking for help to liquidate the coins you have already bought?   Are you asking how to have the coins in your photos graded by a TPG like NGC?   Or something else altogether?
This may be tough to hear but in just looking at what I can see and make out in your photos none of those coins look like coins that would be good candidates to spend further monies on having graded.   Granted that I cannot make out every coin so there may be a few that would be worth the cost that could be in those 2X2's.
Contrary to what you may have read making money buying and selling coins requires excellent grading skills and a knowledge of the coin market, these skills and knowledge do not happen overnight.
Without knowing what you are wanting help with I can only offer some very general suggestions.   If your goal is to liquidate the coins you have, you have a few options.   First you can look at the list of NGC authorized dealers here on the NGC website and find the closest one to you, contact that dealer and see if he is interested in purchasing the coins you have.   Fair warning, do not expect to get sell to a dealer for what you paid especially true if you have purchased these recently.   Most dealers pay roughly 50% to 60% of retail price when buying.   This first option will be the fastest way to liquidate the coins but will also likely net you the least amount of money in return.
A second option is to open an Ebay store and list all these coins for sale there, you can also simultaneously list most of these on other sites like Etsy and there are numerous Facebook groups where coins are bought and sold.   All of these options will require a fair amount of work on your part to list and then to ship once you have made a sale, you will maximize your return but you will work hard for it vs selling it all to a dealer.
If your goal is to have these coins graded by a firm like NGC you would need to sit down and go through each coin and figure out which coins are worth spending the monies to have graded.   This is where the grading skill and market knowledge will be needed as sending in everything would cost thousands of dollars for a negative return on those grading dollars.
Best of luck, figure out what your goals are and then find a path forward.

While non collectors, or those just starting out, find these minor issues interesting, most coin collectors pay them no mind as these types of things are quite common.

First welcome to the forum, second your post is rather vague, what is it that you want to do.   Are you looking for help to liquidate the coins you have already bought?   Are you asking how to have the coins in your photos graded by a TPG like NGC?   Or something else altogether?
This may be tough to hear but in just looking at what I can see and make out in your photos none of those coins look like coins that would be good candidates to spend further monies on having graded.   Granted that I cannot make out every coin so there may be a few that would be worth the cost that could be in those 2X2's.
Contrary to what you may have read making money buying and selling coins requires excellent grading skills and a knowledge of the coin market, these skills and knowledge do not happen overnight.
Without knowing what you are wanting help with I can only offer some very general suggestions.   If your goal is to liquidate the coins you have, you have a few options.   First you can look at the list of NGC authorized dealers here on the NGC website and find the closest one to you, contact that dealer and see if he is interested in purchasing the coins you have.   Fair warning, do not expect to get sell to a dealer for what you paid especially true if you have purchased these recently.   Most dealers pay roughly 50% to 60% of retail price when buying.   This first option will be the fastest way to liquidate the coins but will also likely net you the least amount of money in return.
A second option is to open an Ebay store and list all these coins for sale there, you can also simultaneously list most of these on other sites like Etsy and there are numerous Facebook groups where coins are bought and sold.   All of these options will require a fair amount of work on your part to list and then to ship once you have made a sale, you will maximize your return but you will work hard for it vs selling it all to a dealer.
If your goal is to have these coins graded by a firm like NGC you would need to sit down and go through each coin and figure out which coins are worth spending the monies to have graded.   This is where the grading skill and market knowledge will be needed as sending in everything would cost thousands of dollars for a negative return on those grading dollars.
Best of luck, figure out what your goals are and then find a path forward.

What Coinbuf said.  The coin does look a little like it was altered due to the color and texture change around the missing characters.

I see remnants of the 2 and the U in the motto. I agree with everything @Coinbuf said in his reply. I note the color changes in those areas so it would have to be examined in hand to see if there are micro abrasions from the number and lettering being ground or polished off, or if that coloration change is just due to there being leftover grease in the die.

I would like to thank you all for the information and advice you have given. I really do appreciate it. Things like this give me confidence in becoming a more serious collector! In the past it has always felt so daunting, but with people like you around to help I feel like I can keep moving forward. Little things like learning to say "submit for grading" instead of "get it graded", and "loupe" instead of "loop" I notice and remember from your feedback. I hope to one day be proficient enough to be the one giving advice and feedback instead. 

That is a lot of coins, good luck with the auction.
While you are correct that the marketplace section is the right place, I find this to be far more interesting than the usual parking lot "what error is this" threads or the babble of QA's threads.

Not to be the debbie-downer in the group, but from your photos those coins look to have some PVC damage.   I would suggest that if you have a local coin shop that you have worked with before and trust you have them look at these.   Sending coins to TPG's is expensive especially when you get details grades in return.

Not to be the debbie-downer in the group, but from your photos those coins look to have some PVC damage.   I would suggest that if you have a local coin shop that you have worked with before and trust you have them look at these.   Sending coins to TPG's is expensive especially when you get details grades in return.

That is a lot of coins, good luck with the auction.
While you are correct that the marketplace section is the right place, I find this to be far more interesting than the usual parking lot "what error is this" threads or the babble of QA's threads.

Not completely missing, the bottom line of the numeral two is clearly visible and the rest of the numeral is there just very faint.   The area where the numeral and some of the letters of "Trust" should be may have been manipulated to remove some metal and create a false error.   The other possibility is that the die had some foreign matter (likely grease) that clogged up those parts of the die and did not allow for metal to flow properly into those areas in the die during the striking of this coin.   Photos can only tell so much and for myself I would need the coin in hand to see if the coin shows any signs of micro polishing in the areas of the missing letters.
If the first you just have a damaged coin, if the second it is considered a very common and minor error which most knowledgeable collectors would have little interest in and would not pay much if any premium for.
This die was well used at the time this coin was struck, you can tell that by the very obvious radial flow lines that start at the bust and go out towards the rim.   This is a clear sign of a die that is near or past its serviceable life, not unusual (and not an error) as the mint tries to milk each die to the very last possible strike to save money.

Not completely missing, the bottom line of the numeral two is clearly visible and the rest of the numeral is there just very faint.   The area where the numeral and some of the letters of "Trust" should be may have been manipulated to remove some metal and create a false error.   The other possibility is that the die had some foreign matter (likely grease) that clogged up those parts of the die and did not allow for metal to flow properly into those areas in the die during the striking of this coin.   Photos can only tell so much and for myself I would need the coin in hand to see if the coin shows any signs of micro polishing in the areas of the missing letters.
If the first you just have a damaged coin, if the second it is considered a very common and minor error which most knowledgeable collectors would have little interest in and would not pay much if any premium for.
This die was well used at the time this coin was struck, you can tell that by the very obvious radial flow lines that start at the bust and go out towards the rim.   This is a clear sign of a die that is near or past its serviceable life, not unusual (and not an error) as the mint tries to milk each die to the very last possible strike to save money.

That is a lot of coins, good luck with the auction.
While you are correct that the marketplace section is the right place, I find this to be far more interesting than the usual parking lot "what error is this" threads or the babble of QA's threads.

Becoming a decent grader takes time.  You will need to look at a LOT of coins in holders to understand how coins grade.  Also, every series has its own nuances in terms our strike problems and wear patterns.  So, just because you are good at grading one series... it will not necessarily mean that you are good at another.  PCGS has a nice grading video series https://www.pcgs.com/education.  To check your skills, there is a fun coin grading game on mycollect.com. I would not submit anything until I felt proficient in grading coins.
 

Just a damaged coin, likely from being in very acidic soil or subjected to an acid of some type.

Welcome to the forum, this section is for questions or comments on the NGC registry, your question would be better seen and received if posted in the "newbie" or "US coin" sections of the forum.   What you have is a common souvenir replica, not a real coin.

No, not yet but I'll let you know. 

@tj96 do you have your new name already picked out for your return ATS.  

Looks more like it was hit by a Mack Truck. I don't see any obvious signs of heat damage, usually you'll see areas that look like someone popped a chewing gum bubble or discoloration. Could have been exposed to heat at some point but when a coin gets to this stage who knows or cares. The most important thing to know is that none of this happened while the coin was being produced. 

Hello Ali, we have type sets for New Orleans, and Carson City, why not one for Denver and Philly.   Now these sets span a large range of dates so they could be split up by 19th, 20th, and 21st century with and without gold for the Philly mint to make them more manageable.   As the Denver mint did not start operations until the 20th century only a 20th and 21st century split would be needed
Some certs for a 19th century Philly set:
2590135-002
5903618-006
1748935-001
2209831-004
2194187-004
2032022-001
2112503-001
For a 20th century Philly set:
201125-002
2209831-003
1933768-004    
3248416-004
294952-001
3425529-002
3418739-003
4237485-031
173143-003