Coinbuf

I did not know him or of him but it sounds like you two hit it off in a very short time. Condolences to his friends and family.

Maybe you can return it, hard to judge the images but from what I can see it does not look like a keeper. Sorry that it did not work out better for you.

Welcome to the forum, each coin must be assessed on its own merits and warts. The type and severity of the cleaning, and the kind of coin and its desirability are all going to factor into what the market value will be.

A badly corroded steel cent.

That is great you got a straight grade, congrats. The last XF45 I see sold thru Stacks and went for $18k just over a year ago. That helps set a possible target price, as to a selling venue you will need to review all the costs involved in consigning to the various auction outlets. Great Collections will likely have the lowest seller fees but may not get quite as much exposure as you could get from Heritage or Stacks. Legend is another boutique auction venue but I have no idea of what their seller fees or how much market exposure you would get with them.

I need to reshoot this coin as I was just a hair off on the focus, raw coin that resides in my 7070 album.

Thanks, I really do like this one but my quicky slab shots don't do it much justice. Here are some close ups which Mark Goodman shot that are much better. Although ANACS called it red I would say the color is mellowed enough that red/brown is more accurate.

Welcome to the forum, there is no way that we can give you a valuation from a photo of a pile of coins. Each coin would need to be looked at individually and assessed for authenticity and individual value. My suggestion is that you take your coins to a local coin dealer and have him/her look at these and determine a value, a dealer may charge a small fee for the time involved to do this.

Those circular marks most likely came from a coin counting machine, it is just post mint damage not an error as @JKK already noted.

While I cannot speak for NGC I very much doubt that they would certify this as an authentic 1943 copper cent; my guess is that you will get your coin back labeled as 1947 corroded/damaged.

From what I have observed key dates have not moved more or higher than the overall coin market, the exception to this is for any toned example the the market deems better than most. Currently toned coins, even those that I would consider rather blah toning; has been the hottest part of the market. If you have a key date coin with nice toning that is where the big jumps are seen, however other than some outliers and gold the coin market has not seen the same leap in prices that other collectables have over the last year or two. Prices have been stronger than pre pandemic for the top of the market and toned material while the lower end stuff and average material has moved up at a slower rate if at all.

That is good that you have looked; very confusing why you still have questions. Lets try this another way, what is it about the coin you posted that to you looks like a photo on the net of a wounded eagle?

As you see no difference between this company's product and say the host here I suggest you buy ten MS70 INB holdered coins. Crack those out and send to NGC and see how they grade, as you claim there are no differences you should be able to make a fortune when you sell the coin in the new NGC slab. Please report back with your results.

No not a wounded eagle, no not a cheerio dollar. There is such a thing as google search you should try it sometime; the information you seek is just a few keystrokes away.

A) It does not have to be "the" DDO/RPM as there are no known DDO/RPM combinations for this date/mm. B) If you had checked the reference material that we have provided you in the past you would know there are no RPM's for this date/mm. C) We like to help new collectors with questions, but you have been given help and provided with references which you do not use. D) And finally if you continue to not use those references that you have been given and do some research yourself before you ask questions folks are going to stop answering your questions, we are here to help not be your research team.

No.

No just damage

I am not aware of any known double ear varieties for this year, and I don't see it on your coin.

It is a cool lamination error, and if it was in a top tier TPG holder with the error on the label I imagine that an error dealer would be asking at least $50 for it. However as a raw coin that is not attributed as an error its value is whatever someone will pay for it, myself I'd pay a couple of bucks tops.

If you fill a dish shallow enough that the clad layer only is in the acid I think you could achieve this result, flip over every so often until you have the desired effect.

The value you see on that piece of paper is just for the insurance when sending the coin back to you, I have not submitted to ANACS in a long time but I'm guessing it should be the value you supplied to ANACS when you filled out the form to submit these coins. Grading companies do not place values on coins they only use your valuation to charge the appropriate insurance for shipping back to you.

Did you have a question on the 1889? This too is a very common coin over 21M were coined in Philadelphia that year, My grade is VF20 and the value is again the silver value of the coin and the current melt value for a Morgan silver dollar is $20-$21 dollars.

Agree that we need photos to answer your question.

My personal guess on a grade would be AU, from a strict financial viewpoint it would not be worth the cost to slab. But you would not be the first to have a coin slabbed for sentimental reasons.