Coinbuf

No worries, those are very different lists. While I do not have such a list per se, I would undoubtably include as many key date coins in nice collector grades as I could fit into those parameters. Most would have to be circulated coins to fit under that dollar cap, say a 1909 SVDB Lincoln in VF25 or VF30 as an example. As well as gold coins, many of the gold $2.50 pieces can be had for under 1k in close to MS65 grades.

Just to clarify, do you mean 10 coins who's prices equal $1,000 in aggregate, or 10 coins worth $1,000 each or potentially $10,000 aggregate.

Most circulated wheat coins (like yours) from the thirties on are only worth around 3 cents each for the copper metal value. Coins from those years need to be uncirculated to have any value over that. The only exception is for any varieties or error coins which might be of interest to collectors of those type of coins. Yours is a nice looking coin not all trashed or road rashed as so many are, it would look nice in a circ wheat album.

Welcome to the forum, Greenstang is correct, value starts at the silver spot and goes up from there. But without any idea of the condition of the coins you inherited there is no way to give you a more precise value. I suggest you look for a coin dealer in your area and contact them for an evaluation, on the main NGC website there is a list of authorized NGC dealers. Review that list and see if anyone is close to you, if not try and post a few of the best looking coins you have inherited and we will attempt to give you some guidance on values. But whatever path you choose temper your expectations, it is easy for us to think that because a relative saved coins that those coins must be valuable, often that is far from the truth.

This date/mm/design is not tough to find in gem grades up to MS67, tougher in MS68 so if you were lucky enough to find one of that grade caliber you would be doing well. I am not a varieties/error collector myself as those things are interesting to study but I have no interest in searching for or owning very many. As such if I were to open and look through that roll I would only be searching for that MS68 needle in the haystack coin. I don't know where you found the info you posted above, but VV does list several DDR's for this coin. To be honest the DDR's I found listed on VV are extremely underwhelming (imo) and I doubt that any carry much of a premium, although I do admit I did not attempt to look up any value info. Good luck if you do decide to open it and look through it.

Good luck, from the end photo it looks like this roll has already been opened. But even if true and that person was only looking for errors or varieties then there could still be a gem inside.

Very PL in hand, tough to get that look with the photo.

Minor rotation.

Well as you have done you can post them for sale here. But as you probably know by now this is a very small forum so it can be difficult to find a buyer. You can sell on Ebay, and there are also facebook coin groups where you can sell coins to other collectors. But without a doubt the fastest and easiest way to sell is to sell to a coin dealer in person either at a coin show or that the dealers shop. NGC has a list of NGC authorized dealers on the main NGC site, but if there is nobody close to you except for the pawn shop you mentioned then your choices are somewhat limited.

What you have is a gold Maple Leaf, often just referred to as a Maple Leaf. It is a solid ounce of gold produced by the Canadian mint and considered bullion coins just like the US mint $50 Bison coin you previously posted about and have put up for sale in the coin marketplace. As a general rule these trade/sell very close to gold spot and as I type this gold is at $2,310 an ounce so you should expect to be able to sell it for $2,250 or perhaps a bit more. The price changes practically every second so it could vary some depending on when and to whom you sell. You can try and sell it here by posting this in the coin marketplace section of the forum as you have done with your $50 Bison coin, however, you are new and unless you can provide some references to prove that you are legit you might have a tough time selling. Plus then you have to ship and insure the coin so that it arrives to the buyer safely and that both you and the buyer are protected if any shipping snaffu were to occur, all that can be a hassle for some people. You can also take it to a coin shop in your area and sell it to them in person, you will likely be offered slightly less than the number I quoted above as the dealer needs to have some room to mark the coin up from his buy price. The upside is you will avoid all the hassles of selling/shipping on the internet.

First this section of the forum is questions/concerns about the NGC registry, general questions should be posted in the US/world coins or newbie sections. Second you have not provided any photos so it's not possible to answer your question.

The seller may have been looking to scam someone, as we have not seen the other side of the story (including the ebay listing) there is no way to know if the listing was fraudulent or if you were taken by your own greed. Ebay has rules and you should know those rules and understand what you are buying before you buy, if the seller was upfront about what he was selling and you misread or misinterpreted the ebay listing that is not a scam. In the future you are unsure I suggest you remember one thing, there is no Santa Claus in numismatics. If something looks too good to be true, chances are it is not.

You were not accused you were called out for spamming the forum by blatantly posting and hyping your ebay auctions in sections of the forum other than the marketplace. The rules are clear for anyone that can read and comprehend english, you are allowed to post about and provide links to items you currently have for sale on ebay in the marketplace section of the forum. You are not welcome to spam the entire forum with your ebay sales, don't be a forum nuisance and you will get far less grief. As a person trying to sell something I would think that you would understand that if you are perceived as a problem it will make it harder for any potential buyer to trust or buy from you. So far your behavior on this forum has been that of a ten year old with ADD, I would not buy a button from you personally and I think you will have a tough road overcoming your reputation with the members of this forum.

What makes you think that? The coin you have shown is not a mule, as Bob said it is simply a Sac dollar that was milled and the quarter inserted. Maybe an attempt at a magicians coin, maybe done to deceive, that cannot be known for sure. But what is 100% true is that you do not have an error or mule coin.

Yep second coin post tonight with rolling machinery damage.

Lem is correct, just damaged from coin rolling machinery.

No discrimination in this thread, if it is copper you can post it even if minted yesterday. Lots of die polish on the 64.

Agree that your coin is dated 1990, the lower leg of the second nine has been obliviated from some type of damage. Your grandfather may have found it interesting and that is why he kept it, but it has no numismatic value beyond the face value of 5 cents.

Thank you, those are much better, but alas as greenstang wrote these new photos prove that the coin has indeed been plated in the past.

Did you check Variety Vista to see if your coin matches any known DDO's for this date/mm?

Welcome to the forum, sadly your photos are woefully inadequate for anyone to give you an in depth evaluation. But what I can see from them and using your description, is a coin that has been plated in the past as a novelty item. That takes all the numismatic value out of the equation and leaves you with a value of approximately 3 cents for the copper metal in the coin. There is no way to opine on values you have seen online without knowing what and where you have been getting your valuations. However, it is not uncommon on sites like etsy, ebay, FB and others to have sellers that post outlandish prices for common and even damaged coins. Some are pure scammers out to land a big fish, some are just completely clueless and do not attempt to actually find out what they have or what it is really worth. As already noted above the 1930 cent produced in Philidelphia is common and does not command a high value unless in exceptional condition. This surprises many non collectors as many equate something that is nearly 100 years old as being valuable. In numismatics the age of a coin is only one part of valuation, condition of the coin, rarity of the date, and survivability of the date all play a part in how valuable any coin is. I will leave you with this screen shot of a 1930 cent that was graded by PCGS (in case you don't know PCGS is another firm like NGC) that sold for just $55. That may seem like alot for a single coin but consider that the grade of MS65 is a high grade, and it would cost close to $50 to send a single coin in to be certified and graded by NGC.

There is a pinned post in this section titled "coin marketplace guidelines" reading that post and following the guidelines would be a good start. My advice is to take your "Alot" to a local dealer to sell, most will pay around 3 cents for common circulated wheat cents (cents not pennys this is not the UK).

Plated, mercury plating was done often in schools for chemistry class. Nickel plating is another possibility as the guys that work in chrome plating shops love to have some fun and nickel has a weak attraction for a magnet. As Neo suggested whatever was used to plate the coin has begun to wear off over time.

Does not look like a DDO to me, plating blister or die damage is more likely. Bob's advice to post on the CONECA forum is good advice, if they think you have something they may request you send in for an in hand review.