Coinbuf

Maybe if you throw out enough word salad something will stick.

Damage after it left the mint causes that.

It might be easier to find what you ae looking for if you know what to look for rather than guessing.

While I am not ruling this out, I think you are seeing rim nicks that the light is catching and making it look that way.

Damaged.

Does not look like a proof or DMPL from your photos.

I do not recall the exact terminology, but it happens because of the heat that is generated at the time of the strike. That creates an air bubble between the zinc core and the copper plating. There is a better more in-depth explanation that I read once, just don't remember where I read that at.

It would be easier to answer your question with a simple full coin photo of the obv and rev not this terrible microscope shot. But it looks like some glue or similar substance on the surface, an acetone bath would likely remove the glue.

Show us a non microscope photo of the full obverse and reverse of the coin and we will be better able to answer your question. From the limited view and terrible quality photos you have provided it looks to be a close AM.

Welcome to the forum, as you are new you may not be aware that NGC staff are not able to provide guidance on values or grades from photos. I see no evidence in your photos of any true die doubling, just a bit of minor and worthless strike doubling. The mint struck over 11 million Peace dollars in 1924, these coins are very common and only have high values when in exceptional condition. Your coin shows clear signs of circulation wear and marks and would not grade higher than AU, well below exceptional condition. Common Peace dollars in circulated condition like yours get most of their value from the silver content and trade/sell close to the spot price of silver. So today your coin is worth $30-$35 to most buyers in the coin market, a bit less would be offered by a dealer or silver junk buyer. It would cost you upwards of $60 to submit your coin for grading and it would still be worth only $30-$35 dollars once you got it back. Your call but I would not choose to spend twice the value of my coin on grading and certification.

Highly unlikely, but much better photos or an in hand review would be needed.

I'm not a variety guy so I have no answers to provide you, I have read your other threads here on this issue. I assume that you know that with the exception of Mr. Lange prior to his passing representatives of NGC do not interact with forum members except for the registry and ask NGC sections of the forum. The only advice I can give is to call NGC customer service, I have found them to be very helpful and far easier to contact than the PCGS CS reps.

This is a proof cent and while I understand that it is "beautiful" to you, it is not a deep cameo coin and it looks to have been impaired and has very little value in this condition. If you still wish to submit the coin to NGC you are certainly welcome and able to do that, but it will not be a very good use of your money. However, if the coin has some special connection or meaning to you it may be worth it to you to still have the coin graded and encapsulated. I will say that from your photo it seems very possible that your proof cent could receive a details grade. Should you still decide to submit use a value of $20, that is well in excess of its actual value but that value is fine for the purposes of filling out the submission form. Welcome to the forum and best of luck on your coin collecting journey.

It is always nice to have that personal remembrance to a coin purchase, it made buying the coins for my mothers birth year set very rewarding for me. Timing gold pricing can be a very tricky thing. I am sure not "in the know" but this rally has been driven in large part by central banks in China and other less friendly countries with less than friendly purposes. So I am not sure that we will see much if any pullback, maybe a bit of a plateau here at the $2,400 level, or those countries could just keep on buying and the prices just keep on climbing. I wish my crystal ball wasn't always broken.

Sorry to hear of that issue for you Lem, I very seldom buy on ebay anymore so not a problem for me at the moment, but I will double check on that address.

First welcome to the forum, second please be aware that employees of NGC are not allowed to give advice on grades or if something should or should not be submitted for grading and third this is the NGC registry section of the forum where questions are posted that apply to the NGC registry. There is no way for anyone to tell you anything from a long distance shot of a group of coins like this. You need to post your question in the newbie section of the forum, provide clear cropped, in focus photos of each side of the coin you have a question about.

I am in the straight grade AU58 camp from these photos. @xinfantry do you have a photo of the slab? Some ANACS slabs are on the rare side and can command a premium just for the slab itself.

There are actually a number of causes for this, I'm not sure that from a photo we are going to be able to pin it down exactly. It very well could be a linear plating bubble, it could also be one of the striking anomalies that plague the zinc cents such as split plating or simple strike doubling. Notice how the tip of the nose and edge of the last 5 in the date also have an extra outline, that is all worthless strike doubling and/or from how the copper platting gets stretched at the time of striking. Be it plating bubbles or some striking issue it is all just worthless, keep it if you like it but it is not any type of error that adds any value to the coin.

PCGS simply picked one of the two problems to put on the label, it could just as easily have been killed for the harsh cleaning; that rim ding is very sizable.

I have doubts that you know even that much.

I can understand the romanticism you are drawn to with circ coins, however, not every collector wants to collect heavily circulated coins. Personally coins that look more like an electrical box knock out rather than the design of the coin do not provide me with any pleasure or joy when viewing them. That however is the beauty of collecting, just as there is a butt for every seat there is a collector for every coin, even if they are the only collector that can get any pleasure from owning it. Just as you want a well traveled coin there are collectors that prefer perfection, if you don't want to be put down for your choices it would be wise for you not to trash the preferences of others. Earlier you wrote; "The date is in bad shape but it looks like their standers for making coins was a little different back then.". This is simply not true and posting incorrect information like this is just how misinformation gets started and spreads. The volunteers here like myself work hard to try and keep misinformation off this site when we see it posted. Please do not make such an assumption or post this type of misinformation, it just leads to problems. No one said that such a failure could not happen, just that it did not happen with your coin, big difference. The people that have replied to your posts represent a collective of over 500 years of collecting coins and researching the how, and why of the minting process, your indifference and dismissal of that knowledge does not speak well of you. I myself have tried to help you, but you have made it clear that you want no help and are only here to troll, so this will be the last time I reply to any post of yours with the exception of correcting any further misinformation that you may post.

I don't know where you got your "understanding" about the use of acetone on copper but that is pure misinformation. Maybe the same sources that are misleading you on what you think you have and/or think your coin will grade or its value. Acetone does not react with the copper cladding of your zincon, I personally have used acetone on hundreds of Lincolns of varying age with no issue. I see no signs of even the worthless forms of strike doubling much less any kind of real doubling, maybe your less than steady hands are making you see double. The last four 1993 NGC graded MS68 1993 coins to sell on ebay sold for $52 or less each and the last three MS67's (the best I think your coin will grade) sold for $20 or less; which is less than what you will pay to have your coin graded by NGC. By the time you take the cost of selling on ebay even the MS68's that sold might have netted the seller $20 (and I'm assuming those sellers submitted under bulk pricing), hardly a life altering windfall.

The coin is dated 1916, and no the standards were not that different back then. Your coin is heavily worn from extensive time in circulation, it is not an error of any type and is not valuable. Keep it if you like it, here is one of my 1916 dated cents, as you can see coins were made much the same as they are today just a bit more patina from all the years that have past.

I'm sorry that you have been mislead biased on some misinformation you read on the web. Your coin is damaged, most likely a dryer coin, also possibly a damaged coin that someone attempted to spoon. Google dryer coin and spooned coin to see examples that look like yours, it did not leave the mint like that and it was not coined like that at the US mint.

I attempted to verify the cert number you posted and the system does not recognize that number. Assuming that you typed in the number correctly there could be a reason the coin was deleted from the database or just by accident. I have run across similar situations in the past a couple of times with cert # issues. My recommendation would be to call NGC customer service and see if they have any history on that cert # that might explain the issue. Sorry as I am not an employee of NGC I cannot be of any further help, hope you are able to get it resolved.