Coinbuf

Given that this is a circulated coin I'm more apt to think just some PMD vs a strike through, its a nice looking coin and the doubling on the date is cool. As you noted from a strict value standpoint I doubt that its really worth submitting, however lots of coins worth less have been graded so its more of a personal choice than a value choice.

The mintmark just took a hit, simple post mint damage is all. The outline of the date can be caused by strike doubling, or die deterioration, both very common and does not add any value over the face value of $.01.

No value over face value of $.03.

Agreed this coin is only worth face value.

Welcome to the forum, impossible to give you any meaningful feedback without a photo of the obv and rev of your coin. However the chances are high that its worth $.01.

Just for curiosity sake how do you know that X1X1X1 is a dealer? It has been some time since I look at all his/her sets (and there are a ton) but I don't recall seeing even one photo so there are no cert numbers to check against dealers inventory so its impossible to know if any of those coins are for sale anywhere. It seems clear that universalcoin may well be from the name, however even if both are dealers it is possible that the coins in those sets are personal collections not automatically inventory. I'm not disagreeing with your idea rather that its almost impossible for NGC to identify a dealer and then next to impossible to distinguish if the coins in sets are inventory or personal. I too would like to see the practice of dealer inventory sets discouraged in the registry, just not that sure how feasible it is for NGC to govern.

Welcome to the forum, first on the nickels I suggest that you weigh them as that is the first step to checking for an off metal coin. Once you have that info you can compare to the known weight for a 1943 Nickel, I would expect that the weight will be in the ballpark for a normal 1943. As far as I know NGC does not do any metallurgy analysis but I cannot say for sure on that. Second the 63-D looks like just the common worthless strike doubling from your photos, however you can also check on Variety Vista VV Link and the VarietyPlus here at NGC NGC Link to see if your coin matches any of the known DDO or RPM's listed on those resources.

Overall this is a nice group of coins, at least two appear to have been cleaned, but as has been noted by many your photos are mostly too bright with too much reflection or out of focus to allow anyone to accurately assess grades, issues like cleaning, or authenticity. I will also echo the sentiments of many that in order to get full value for these and any other high value coins you have; sending them off to NGC for grading would really be a huge benefit to you and any potential buyers.

Welcome to the forum; the NGC coin explorer can be a very helpful tool. 1957 FBL The NGC price guide shows this as $2450, however as you can see from the page I linked this has been crossing the auction blocks last year (no sales for this year are showing) at around the $1000 price level. Now all of those 2020 auctions were PCGS graded examples and as a general rule the market place tends to value PCGS graded coins slightly higher over NGC coins. That can be a good thing as it does allow the occasional opportunity to get a nice coin for a discount. And one further point on prices, two of those prior sales listed had CAC approval which also tends to bring a higher value. You can see that with the fourth coin that sold for over $1,600, and that coin is the nicest in that group of four in my opinion. So from this data I would place the value of the coin you linked at around the $700-$900 price range give or take, of course the only true test of its market value is what would it sell for at auction. You asked "what you experienced coin collectors think of this coin" speaking only for myself (and as someone that is not a big fan of the Franklin series) I would give it a "Meh". I'm not in love with the toning on the coin as it mutes the surfaces and luster form the photo, it is of course also very possible that in hand the coin is nicer than the photo suggests. Of course that is just my personal opinion. Edited to add: When you click the link scroll down and select MS FBL to see the data I have noted above.

Yes your 1990 suffers from the same die deterioration doubling as the 87. This is very common on the zinc cents from 1982 to current that are copper coated.

Very true, design changeovers are a great time for mint hijinks.

I'm not sure what your question is, are you asking the value? Or are you asking if its authentic? Or something else.

Hindsight is always 20/20.

An 03-O in 65 crosses the auction block around $700-$750 today, roughly the equivalent of wholesale back then. 04-O's are a dime a dozen and sell around $150 right in line with all the common dates in the Morgan series in 65. Curiously prices for lower level (BU to 65) Morgans have been rising now for a while, not sure if that is just a bubble tied to silver or if its just all the money that has been flowing into coins over the last year.

That is a real nice looking new addition, congrats @Hoghead515

it is a no-no, you would be well advised to leave them alone. If you must then a simple rinse in pure acetone can be done safely, more than that and you are at great risk of damaging the coins and losing the collector value.

Some nice examples so far, sorry to say that I have nothing that is remotely low mintage to post.

PF64 no CAM or DCAM.

I do not think that mistakes are common as the TPG's have controls in place to double check things, but sure from time to time something is bound to slip through the cracks. As you have already been in contact with NGC then I think all will end as it should, please update us with the final result. BTW you never did mention what did you send it in as if not a medium relief?

The images also looked juiced, so I doubt it looks like that photo.

The people at NGC are human beings and mistakes do happen; I suggest that you get on the phone first thing tomorrow AM with customer service and discuss this with them directly.

I'm sorry to say that you do not have doubled die coin, as @Greenstang noted you have a coin that exhibits extreme die deterioration doubling. If you submitted this and payed for variety attribution I fully expect that you will receive your coin back with a grade but no attribution, which will no doubt be very disappointing. In the future I suggest that you might want to do some more research before you spend money on non errors and/or things that NGC does not attribute. One such reference is Variety Vista, VV link by checking here you can confirm that you have a true known variety. Please note that to qualify your coin must match the reference photos shown on VV perfectly, sort of is not a match. Then second you need to check the NGC Variety Plus listings NGC link to see if NGC attributes the variety that you think you have, NGC does not attribute every variety or Morgan VAM so its important to check before you spend money only to find out latter. Had you checked these references first you would have known that your coin does not match the two DDO's that VV lists (they have no DDR's listed for this date/mm) and that NGC currently has no DDO for this date/mm that it will attribute.

A couple of thoughts which may or may not help you; first registry fever can be a dangerous thing, and you are not alone in dealing with these types of choices. I too have seen the point discrepancies that you are talking about for proof vs mint state coins when both can be used. Second you have to decide and define what goals you have for your registry sets, once you have those goals the choices become far easier. As an example one thing you can do to define your collection is pick sets that only include non-proof coins if you prefer mint state coins vs proofs. However if a MS only set is not available or the goal is to be have a top contenting set then it may be better to lose the OCD aspect in favor of using proofs for the points values. As a side thought; at one point I was too caught up in the registry "thing" I still very much enjoy the registry and having/improving competitive sets. But what I have learned is that with my very limited budget levels, I have one or two sets that I concentrate on and would very much like to keep at the competitive top. Everything else I consider more like a non-competitive custom set that I do for the love of collecting and really don't care that much about the ranking.

What ever caused it was clearly on the die, I agree that a very rough die polish is a very likely cause.

A very dark coin that I am fairly certain was cleaned and retoned once or twice, lol. Still has an ok semi circ cam look and now resides in my 7070 album.