Coinbuf

Ohhh flames are cool!

the story is that it has been harshly cleaned, poor coin.

I would like the option for custom sets (once they are added to the new system) to upload additional photos. Currently you can only have one obv and one rev photo, my old holder custom set is a good example of where this could be useful. My whole theme is about the holder and it would be nice for the viewers to be able to see the holders as they are relevant to the set. However I also use those coins in competitive sets where I do want the close up shots to be available. It would be nice to have the ability in custom sets to use other brands of holders besides only NGC and PCGS. I understand the reasons why not for the competitive sets but custom sets are not judged in the same manor and some collectors have coins in their collections in older ANACS and other brands of holders that are relevant for a custom set that cannot currently be shown or displayed.

Nice looking 1963 quarter addition @Hoghead515, how many more do you need to complete the set?

The recent release of the 2021 dollars will for sure be having a big impact on the turnaround times, I have no doubt that there are boxes and boxes of those new dollars showing up every day and lots of flippers that need those graded right now in order to meet their eBay presales. Turnarounds are going to be very slow for awhile now.

A couple of beautiful newps, @Lem E your war nick is awesome and so very close on that sixth step! And @Alex in PA. that is a very tough CC dollar that looks more like AU, maybe just a bit more luster and it would have bumped. Sweet additions, way to raise your game gentlemen.

Welcome to the forum, can you tell us how you came into possession of so many coins as it seems that you know very little about them. There are a few ways that you can go about this, first you can spend lots of time trying to figure out an appropriate retail price using the available price guides, Ebay sold listings (not the current ask prices as those can be very misleading), and prior auction selling prices. By combining all those for each coin you will arrive at semi reasonable estimate, I say semi reasonable as there are many factors (like color or other special coin attributes) that can change the desirability and marketability of the coins you have. Then you take good clear photos of both sides of each coin and list them all on a site like Ebay or on the Marketplace section of coin forums like here. Then when any of the coins sell you box and ship after you receive payment X the 2 to 3 hundred coins you have. The second way is the far easier route, you can contact the major auction houses (Great Collections, Heritage, and Stacks) with a list of what you have to sell. They can provide you with the costs to you for the use of their services as well as other information like how long to get paid after an auction has ended etc... Then you box everything up and send it all; with the proper insurance to protect yourself; to the auction house that you choose. They will do all the imaging, take care of all the auction listing, payment processing and mailing of the 2 to 3 hundred coins you have. The third option is to take all the coins into a local dealer and ask him if he is interested in buying the entire lot. He will go thru the coins figure out what he is willing to pay; keeping in mind that he then needs to mark up the coins in order to make a profit reselling them; if you are ok with his offer you get paid and off you go. The first option will be the most time consuming but may net you the most money for the coins you want to sell. The second option will most likely net you the second most amount of money for the coins but it will take some time for the process to work itself thru and you to receive the monies from the auction house. The third option will almost certainly net you the least amount of money for the coins but its very quick.

It looks like a Chinese fake from the photos.

Sorry to see that it did not straight grade, slight bummer.

I have not checked it but given the recent release of the 2021 hot mint items that sounds about right.

Welcome to the forum, I cannot help with your inquiry as I do not collect or have info about medals. Please post obv and rev photos of the coin you have as that will greatly aid those who have the info to help you.

Even at my old age almost every coin that I buy is older than I am. Nice newp.

I would like to see the ability to sort by CAC approved added to the registry sort options when viewing one's competitive coins. This would make it easier to verify that all the CAC'd coins are showing as having been CAC approved. Thanks.

Congrats on the beans. Submission costs vary with the tier and if you are a collector/submitter or dealer. the first tier cost is $16 per coin (up to $10K value per coin) plus shipping and a handling fee. If you are a dealer you pay the $16 on each coin pass or fail, authorized collectors only pay the $16 per coin fee for the coins that pass. The value increase really depends on the coin, for some it well exceeds 15% for others it may be quite marginal. For instance a green bean on an MS64 graded coin where the jump to MS65 is substantial may see a value increase of 30% or more, however on another coin where the price gap is much closer the value increase may be less than the cost to submit to CAC. There are many variables to how much value the market will add, the one thing that is added but even harder to place a value on is liquidity. CAC verified coins are almost always easier to sell than a non bean coin.

Love the seated design its one of my favorites, congrats on your newp.

The Morgan has been whizzed or polished and therefore it would grade as damaged and its value is just the bullion value. The Peace also looks like it may have been messed with but its more difficult to say from your photos. If the surfaces of the Peace are ok then it grades mid AU.

Thanks fellows, I'm glad that you all enjoyed the thread.

I have been shooting some slab shots of the slabbed coins in my collection, mostly as a photographic record of what the coins and slabs look like in case of something were lost in the mail or robbery and such. Not a huge risk as I keep most of my collection in an SDB but I always seem to have a few here from time to time. Anyway I have been doing this as a semi production line process not changing the lighting or camera setup for each coin just one setup and shoot, so not glamor shots but some have turned out really nice despite the utilitarian setup. I thought that this one came out rather nice with a nicely toned reverse so figured I would share it for your viewing pleasure, hope everyone has a great weekend.

It would be difficult to say it better than @JKK did, you have indicated that you are on a limited budget. As that is the case I would very much discourage you form sending coins like the bust half in your photos. That coin is a nice album coin but not a coin that should ever be sent in for grading and slabbing. Use the power of the internet to your advantage and look at photos, guides, and the other resources that are available to you. Disclaimer do not use youtube as a learning tool, there is good info there but too much garbage that you have to sift thru to find the good info. Use your funds to go to shows and coin shops, just look (not buy) at as many coins as you possibly can in person and ask questions if you don't understand why a coin is advertised at a certain grade. Be a sponge and soak up knowledge, do not be in any rush to buy as the coins will always be there when you are ready.

Congrats on the nice grade.

From your photos the only coin that might be worth submitting is the 1953 quarter for the nice color, as Kurt mentioned that set was already cut up or its a set that was made up from loose single coins. None of the other coins appear to have much (or any) color or cameo qualities that would justify the cost of grading, of course that is judging from the photos and in hand I might have a different opinion.

No clue, never been there I don't ski or like snow.

Well I guess I won't have to worry about booking my travel, at least not for this anyway.

What is your special formula dip going to remove or improve? And what kind of metals does this work on, will it leave copper a pink color?

Some nice coin additions @Sharann, I would caution you not to love the look of that 1917 too much or to buy coins with that look. That staining would not be considered as attractive by very many and it has active corrosion/verdigris. The 1920 woody and 1931-S are both attractive coins, find more of those.