Coinbuf

An absolute luster bomb, but so typical with the shield rivets missing towards the center of the coin.

For about $500 you can get a full camera setup designed for taking coin photos, a very good system and after some practice you should be able to turn out some excellent photos. Talk to Ray

Novelty item, no numismatic value.

Welcome to the forum, those sets are a very nice gift from your father. The 1957 is a proof set but none of the coins look to have any cameo which would be needed in order to be worth grading from a pure dollar value perspective. I would tend to leave them just as you received them but certainly if you want to you could get a more current holder to replace the old one that has quite a few scratches on it which would make the set more visually pleasing.

This thread was originally posted in the NGC registry section, I notified the mods and asked that it be relocated to the correct forum which they have done, hence you now see the thread in the US/World section as it should be.

Thanks for the additional images Sam, I have used two of your new images to illustrate what I am seeing as I did with your original images. For the obv I have circled the hair curls both over the forehead and the lower curls. Note the color change at the highest points and the flatness, the flatness could come from a weak strike. However when you couple that with the color change these areas look like rub/wear. I have also circled an area of the field, this type of scruffiness is almost always indicative of a coin that has seen circulation. On the rev again I have circled the areas in the field that show a wear pattern that is almost always seen with AU level coins. I felt certain that your coin was AU from the first set of photos and these new photos have confirmed to me that AU is the correct grade for this coin. As a side note I have circled an area of the cheek on the obv that shows signs of cleaning or damage as seen by the parallel lines on the cheek.

Generally speaking it is not possible to offer advice from photos of only one side of the coin, it is difficult enough to provide any help even seeing both sides. However given your description and from the obverse photos you have provided I do not see the benefit to submitting any of these coins. Each of these (assuming all are P mint) can be bought already in holders up to and including MS65 grades for the same or not much more that it will cost you to submit these.

It is so unfortunate that this design was deemed inappropriate and changed.

No such thing as a close or wide AM in the early memorial cent production, as noted above the wide/close issue did not become a thing until 1992.

Just a suggestion, I would soak it again in fresh acetone it looks like there is still some on the surface and on the edges. Acetone will not harm silver even if left to soak for an hour, one more bath will not hurt just to be sure you have it all off. You can also use a Q-tip dipped into acetone and roll (not wipe) it over the surface and edges, that will sometimes help to dislodge any stubborn bits of the PVC.

My advice leave your wallet at home for your first show, look at everything, and ask questions/prices. If your close enough to drive then you will be able to make another show again and you will be better prepared to buy the next time. As for what to expect, you will see some amazing rarities that you may not have known exist, and be prepared for an endless sea of Morgan dollars. Going to a big show may change your perspective on just how common some coins really are.

I used the op's photos and circled what I see as wear, however these photos are out of wack for the white balance so with a different set of photos it may appear differently

Have FUN

Well as I said I would attempt to contact the seller and arrange a return. If you do decide to crack and rinse in acetone this is a good process. Have two containers of pure acetone, place the coin in the first container and let soak for 30 minuets, gently agitate the coin in the acetone to dislodge the PVC. Once the PVC is loose and removed place the coin in the second acetone bath container and again agitate, this is to ensure that none of the PVC from the now contaminated first container has found a new home on the coin. Remove from the second bath and place on a soft towel and gently pat both sides, do not rub. Any small amount of acetone will evaporate very rapidly. Be sure to do this in a well ventilated area.

First it does you no good to come here and bash the host, coins have had PVC develop in the holders of just about every TPG known. While we hope and expect the TPG's to detect problems like this the fact is that PVC can be almost invisible at the time of grading and develop/grow years later. And graders are human and every now and then mistakes are made and issues do slip thru. Second that looks to be an NGC gen17 holder which if I recall correctly was used between 2004 and 2008 so it is older than ten years. It sounds as if you just bought/received this coin; if that is true I suggest that you contact the seller and return the coin for a refund. If I have misread your comments and you have had this for awhile that would sort of prove my thought that it may have been present at the time it was graded but not visible to the graders or you at the time it was graded and bought. If a return is not possible then I suggest that you contact NGC customer service and see if they can remedy the problem under any guarantees or not. As a worst case scenario I would suggest that you crack the coin out and give it an acetone bath to remove the PVC, if left unattended it will get worse and eventually (if not already) eat into and harm the surface of the coin.

Textbook VF30 that might bump up to VF35 on a good day, the toning is not attractive but not all that unusual for this date/mm/grade and it does look to have been cleaned long ago. I know a dealer that has a PCGS VF35 listed for $75 right now, and there is an ANACS VF35 listed on eBay for $55. So I would put the value of your raw coin at $35 to $40 max, certainly if you look around on eBay or Etsy you can find other coins like yours with much higher asking prices but not finding many (if any) buyers at inflated prices.

From the photos I see an AU55.

Yep @Woods020 is correct I meant 80% of retail, hands were typing faster than the brain was going.

As a collector only and one that does not buy very many coins paying for the grey/blue sheets would not be a useful use of funds. By reading this forum and the PCGS forum I am able to see what the market trend as a whole is doing. When I want to buy a specific coin from a dealer I use the PCGS auction tool that @Woods020 linked earlier, the CAC buy price, and GC auction results to set the floor, I then use the eBay sold listings and the NGC/PCGS price guides to set the high retail range. I then target about 80% less of the high retail (eBay) and 20% above avg auction results as the sweet spot for my buy pricing. Of course its more complex than it sounds as you have to take into account things like toning that may spike an auction price way out of the norm, the absence or presence of CAC, or a couple of crazy bidders that got into a bidding war and the quality of the item you are looking to buy. I will also check Collectors Corner to see what is being offered for sale in that venue, it helps to get an idea of price and availability. This works very well for slabbed coins but is less effective for raw coins but can still be of use, if I'm looking at a raw coin I can still use these metrics but I adjust down knowing that slabbing costs are usually around $50ish per coin. However I seldom buy from a dealer anymore, most of my buys are from the marketplace/BST sections of the NGC and PCGS forums, and auctions. I still use the tools I noted above to help with finding a price level that I feel is correct and then attempt to buy at or very close to that, I will if I really want the coin stretch some but it has to be very special or difficult to find.

Also in case your not aware your questions would be better suited to the US/World section of the forum; this NGC registry section of the forum is meant to be for questions or discussions that relate to the NGC registry.

Yes cents can indeed turn a grey or silver color, I have sitting on my desk a 1927 cent that is a beautiful MS grade coin with a lustrous silver color. I'm not entirely certain that it is totally a natural color nor that this coin I have would (or yours) would not be considered as altered by a TPG, however I have seen several silver toned coins in TPG holders. In fact now that I'm on the subject I have an SMS Lincoln that has some silver tone to it, it does not show as well in the photo as in hand but here is a photo. Also if you look through sets of toned Lincolns you will see some that have some portion of the coin toned with a silver tone.

I hope not, however coins are a more mature sector where other collectables like comics and cards are hot now. I do not know if this will be good or not, time will tell what and where the priorities lay for the new ownership.

Very difficult to say without a photo, it really depends on what the condition of the coin is and the extent of any damage. The closest I could find was a Heritage auction from 2016 for a damaged Snow-3 coin that PCGS determined as ungradable. Heritage described it as good details damaged and it sold for $4,700 but I'm sure that the Snow attribution was a factor in the price.

Welcome to the forum, and think you for the nice in focus large and cropped photos. That is a big improvement over most of the first time posts. If the photos represent the coin as it appears to a human eye when holding the coin in hand then I would likely grade it as XF details cleaned. I am not a dealer so the value I give is not meant to be indicative of what you could sell it for in an open marketplace like eBay. Having said that I do not see any experienced collector or dealer paying more than $40 for this coin, an inexperienced collector might pay a slight bit more. Again my opinion on grade and value is only biased on these photos an in hand look might change my opinion, however my thought is that my opinion is much more likely to go down vs up after an in hand look.

Very nice set. Back in the early 2000's one of my neighbors had dual citizenship; US/Canadian; I had read about the holographic coins from the Canadian mint and on one of his trips to Canada I asked him to pick up one of these gold Canadian hologram coins for me. I only have this photo of the one side on my computer but you can see some of the holographic effect in the photo. Sometime I should take a short video of the coin as it rotates, this was very much an out of the ordinary unusual purchase for me.