Woods020

I don’t see how this was graded FS to be honest. It really shouldn’t have in my opinion. Below are direct requirements from PCGS. I’ll post the link to pictures what that they will/will not consider FS. The Cert number does check out as FS as well. Full Steps (FS) is the designation following the numerical grade of some regular-strike MS60 or higher Jefferson nickels that have at least five separated steps (lines) at the base of Monticello. Any major disturbance or interruption of these steps or lines, whether caused by contact, planchet problems, or another source, will result in the coin's not being designated FS. Only the slightest weakness on any step (line) is allowed for this designation. Some issues are almost never seen with Full Steps and may command a significant premium. https://www.pcgs.com/news/tips-from-the-grading-room-part-3

Total fake. Notice the border shape of the privy mark compared to an authentic coin

Moderator - can you tell my why this isn’t being approved? I’ve twice posted this and waited a month now from the first post. What is the problem?

MrAnson, The pictures aren’t clear enough to comment on the RPM, but here is a link with the known RPMs for that date and some diagnostic information. You can compare it with yours. http://www.varietyvista.com/02a LC RPMs Vol 1/RPMs 1943S.htm

Welcome to the forum. It’s a nice coin but not worth grading financially. Probably looking at a value of roughly $20-$25. Grading would cost you twice that with shipping and service fees.

Edward, Welcome to the forum. This is the section for listing coins for sale. You will have better luck with your post in the newbie section or in ask NGC.

Or pay the fee...

It’s insanity at its best. The sad thing is someone may buy their coins at a huge premium believing what they say.

Personally I don’t think so. The metal isn’t in a liquid state when it’s struck. I don’t see a way during the minting process for this to happen. There is also a lot of abrasion on the coin. It looks like something someone did while bored. People do crazy things to coins, and the only thing crazier is trying to figure out what they did or why they did it. All we can say is this didn’t happen at the mint. Others will chime in and may have different opinions.

I can’t say for sure what caused this, but I can say for certain it didn’t occur at the mint. This is post mint damage. A lot of it.

I ran across this interesting scheme. “MAC picks up where CAC leaves off” 😂 I continue to be blown away by the various methods of deception in this hobby. It’s mind boggling. https://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=284177411072&category=171526&pm=1&ds=0&t=1617382373000&ver=0&cspheader=1

Thank you. I will email them tomorrow if I still don’t get a response.

It’s amazing how much the world changed. In less than 150 years all financial transactions can take milliseconds with a computer key stroke, planes move mail over night to anywhere in the world potentially, and even communication went from handwritten mail to instant communication with others via smartphone or electronic means.

Do you have any of these with an S mint mark? I know you said you had several. A 1909 S VDB would potentially be worth your time. Post it for feedback for sure if you have one.

I didn’t even consider that, but now that counterfeit is mentioned it screams that. Everything is being counterfeited I guess, I just hadn’t seen any of these yet. D.Zuk to start with do you have a digital scale by chance? Can you weigh it to 2 decimal places? That will be a good start.

Coins that have been noticeably cleaned and/or polished are “details” coins. In other words they are considered altered/damaged. If you send them in for grading it will get a details grade. Moral of the story is don’t clean coins.

Grant, It’s happened to a lot of us. Buying via picture is always tough, but a necessity in today’s world. In order to answer your question can you get a few more sharp pics and maybe with a little light? I have a suspicion you are correct on the polished part but it’s hard to tell for sure from these photos.

Jfantj, It’s a good idea for your son to learn how coins are minted. It’s the starting point for any of us. Once you learn the process of how they are made, then when you see something that is off you ask yourself “could this have happened during the minting process?”. Then you can start seeing what is damage because it couldn’t have happened at the mint. Anything that happens the second it leaves the mint is damage. Here are a couple of resources for him to watch. Also if your son is a reader, there are several good books to start his numismatic education with. Looking back I wished I had started with a logical process of learning in sequential order starting with how they are made. Then working into errors and learning about the types of coins I am interested in. If he is a reader two great books for him to learn both some history and the minting process, and also both authors are active on these threads, are: From Mine to Mint - Roger Burdette (RWB on here) The History of the US Mint and it’s coinage - David Lange (DWLange on here) Hope this helps. Numismatics is tough. I have graduate degrees in both economics and statistics and I think this is harder 😂

Others can disagree, but again I think it’s damage. That occurred after it left the mint and isn’t an error. You are looking at the value being silver spot price at the time of sale and a few bucks premium. But given that this one isn’t really BU I’d say you are essentially looking at silver spot price.

This isn’t a ding at NGC. I’m sure they have a lot going on to answer free questions in that section. I was truly curious if I was going about it wrong. Generally when something goes wrong and it’s me or the other guy, I assume it’s me and I’m usually right 😂

I think it’s just damage that caused the 9 to be distorted. These aren’t meant for circulation, but it looks like it has seen some wear. Someone must have stored this in a bag of coins or thrown around.

The only thing I can add is that there is a diagnostic to differentiate between the original and restrike. Supposedly anyway. Some die scratches were polished out for the later striking. This is I am sure why the seller is saying this is a restrike. And if there is a diagnostic I am surprised NGC doesn’t differentiate. I just wish they would tell me one way or another.

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They are much improved from your earlier ones. Now that you have them sharper tinker around with adding some lighting at different angles. But try and diffuse it or you will get too much light quickly on the reflective surfaces of a coin. You don’t need expensive equipment either. A standard desk light pointed in the right direction and diffused with some kind of paper to get the right amount will go a long way.