Woods020

Agree. Looks like a little wear on the cheek and high points of hair. Nice example though. I don’t blame you for liking the coin.

VKurt I’m down in Tuscaloosa. I came back at Christmas from being in bucks county myself for work. Glad to be back and hope Alabama is showing itself to be hospitable, despite the insane weather so far. Let me know if you find any good coin shows around. Not nearly as much activity here as Philly. Sometime soon I’m going to check out the greater Atlanta monthly show. Hoghead if you pass through Alabama give me a shout. I’m a big fisherman as well and know a place to take you cat fishing. Literally never know what you may pull out at the wheeler damn near Florence. P.S. Jasper is near where I grew up, and not the best representations of Alabama. If you need drugs or hitmen, that’s your place. If not we’ll...😂 As an aside and to be the boring guy that talks “work” haha, I agree with Kurt. I think the 63 the dealer said was pretty darn close. The cheek isn’t that bad, but those marks in front of the nose kill it going much higher. It does seem to have nice luster. Hard to say for certain from the pics but nothing says cleaned/polished to me blatantly.

Bausch and lomb make some very nice loupes in the $30-$35 range if you ever decide to change. I read a ton of user reviews, many from numismatist, and the B&L for $35 hold their own against the much more expensive offerings from Zeiss, Nikon, Schneider, etc.. The step up from the loupe you have is to move to a triplet loupe, which has 3 lenses bonded to decrease distortion. B&L Hastings triplet are great if you want to go to the nicer ones and aren’t a ton more. They aren’t lighted, which I don’t think any of the nicer ones are. I wish they were but I guess they want you to use better light than an included one. My only complaint is they aren’t the largest loupes. In fact the 20x I ordered recently for certain situations is tiny. Comically so. But the 10x is a decent size and nice glass, especially for a $35 triplet.

This one has some good tells. The R in trust for example is very clearly a DD. The I on the other hand, to my eyes, looks just as much like MD as DD. May look different in hand. And it’s possible to have a DD with some MD also.

This one does look right and one of the clearer examples of DD. Sometimes they are pretty cut and dry one way or another MD/DD. But I’ll be honest it’s probably the most frustrating thing to figure out to me. Some of them, to me atleast, could go either way. I’ll be the first to admit 50% of the time I’m not the person to ask about doubling. Sometimes I am very confident, the others I’m like hmmmm. I’m not sure.

if you can get a 20 pack for $8 do it for sure. I bought some at CVS and I think just to get 4 to replace what it needed was $15. Also I actually thought of you today HH. I bought a raw 1935-D Washington Quarter. I found it for a decent deal at an antique mall of all places near me. It’s not a real strong strike, but the surfaces are pristine. I figure it will go MS 65-66 range. Shame it wasn’t a better strike. I know you like the silver Washingtons.

These can’t be beat for the price. I had a couple of these, maybe another brand, but same price and look. The one thing I can tell you is keep the switch off. I had a bad habit of accidentally leaving it on or it turning on in my pocket. The little watch batteries it uses aren’t cheap, and mine took 2 or 3 I can’t remember. It was about the same price to replace the batteries as buy a new one. If they start getting weak maybe look on Amazon maybe you can order them for a better price than finding them locally.

Please do all of us buyers and the hobby in general a favor; give accurate and fair descriptions of what you are selling. No harm in making money on coins, but it’s concerning that this is your business and you aren’t as familiar as I might expect. I’m not accusing you of any wrong doing so don’t take it as such, but please don’t make wild claims to unsuspecting new collectors. They get burned and leave the hobby for good. We see newbies all the time that have purchased something that isn’t close to what it was claimed.

I’m not disagreeing with you. I don’t believe JPM is anywhere close to insolvency. I’m simply saying you can’t just say JPM would reach insolvency at X amount of debt because it isn’t a free market. Even if times were dismal and they reached X, I don’t foresee insolvency ever being an option. They are truly too big to fail as the saying goes, especially with some past lessons learned. I’m aligned their outlook isn’t catastrophic. My comment was theoretical. To be clear I agree with both you and world colonial on your premise, only disagree on a few nuances here and there but not a surprise there is no consensus. Example I do believe models to the extent they are the best predictor, understanding no model is perfect because of external or unknown variables. If they were perfect we could predict stock rise and fall very easily, but we see it isn’t so simple. WC on the point that on paper we are in a downward trend and theoretically it could lead to loss of purchasing power. Can’t argue that. This is why people are trying to hedge inflation with silver, albeit I’m not convinced it will be effective. I agree with Goldfinger in that while this is a possibility we aren’t near a financial market collapse of any kind. Decreases in purchasing power and the relative strength of a US dollar maybe, but not a market collapse and the fall of the financial super powers no.

I can’t and won’t argue with that logic

We almost have to rethink what high government debt even means. It’s way past rational and it’s just “funny money” at this point. Government debt will likely never be at a point that wouldn’t be considered entirely too high at any point in the foreseeable future.

World colonial makes some great points, and I agree with them. However, I think there are two extraneous factors to consider. Unfortunately, even to my Keynesian view of things, the financial markets today are far from freely operating markets that can self correct. 1. The JP Morgan’s of the world may become insolvent on paper, but I don’t think will ever be allowed to fail. Arguments can be made on both sides of that and I won’t give an opinion, but most importantly I don’t think a JP Morgan will be allowed to suffer the same fate as their acquired Bears Stern. The risk may be there but the consequences may not 2. While I fully agree our market is “sick”, and actually sicker than we want to publicly admit, there are a lot of sound economic models that suggest this isn’t a sickness per se, but delayed spending. The demand and resources are there with willing spenders, but the opportunity has been paused So as things begin to normalize, or find a new normal is more like it, will this current state of economic affairs quickly correct itself as the pent up consumer demand plays out. I certainly have all fingers and toes crossed this will be the case. Time will tell

Nyami, I appreciate your feeling overwhelmed with coin info. You will drink through a firehose for a little while and then all of a sudden you’ll begin to realize what you’ve learned. You’ll see things you didn’t see. Don’t get discouraged. One big piece of advice that I wish I had given myself in the beginning is don’t be in a hurry. Take your coins one by one and research them. Ask questions on here and be open to learn. People are on here because the love to talk coins and help. But the coin isn’t going anywhere. Getting it graded this month or next year is not of importance. You’ll make much wiser and more informed decisions that way. And I promise you will look back a year from now and be glad you moved over to the slow lane.

Agreed. Toning actually worries me. It’s beautiful but I admit I haven’t gotten proficient at telling AT vs NT. I only hope the slabbed ones are NT. But raw ones I avoid because I don’t feel confident and they will sure want a premium. Ironically I bought a raw 1921 Morgan from a guy that was brightly toned for like $25 on a whim. I was worried about it so I decided to throw it in a submission for grading. Just so I could learn from what the answer was. Not that a 21 Morgan is worth grading. Anyway it came back cleaned! I laughed because I was expecting suspicious color or the like, but nope cleaned. I can’t see cleaning through what I’m fairly sure is AT.

And 5 days to go. Folks get out your toners. Time to sell!

This thing is up to $12,600 with premium. Insanity. I laugh at myself pondering on should I go to $5k. Toning has gotten very pricey!

Am I missing something? Where has this post contained a 22 no D cent? And I’m really asking. I probably did miss it but have no idea what you are referencing.

Agree on die crack. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a peace/Morgan dollar or any of others from this time and earlier with rolling machine marks. Out of curiosity and learning does anyone know when mechanical rolling machines came into use? Has anyone seen a rolling machine mark on something earlier than say 1950 that was uncirculated?

The 73 D Rosie doesn’t appear to be full bands. Any interruption disqualifies it from FB. Look at the price of a non FB in maybe mid MS (64-65 ish). Not worth much.

These are very nice coins, but to set your expectations correctly you mention selling the quarter for $1k. That is very unrealistic unless I am missing something very special about it. Generally the guidance is that if a coin won’t have a fair market value of $150 or more it isn’t sensible to spend the money grade it. I don’t think that what you have posted would make the mark, but possible. They would either have to grade extremely high or have a desirable error/variety. out of curiosity the 61 proof cent looks like it’s in some kind of slab with a label. What does it say?

I see what he is pointing to and at first glance it does look like initials or letters atleast. Logically it’s highly unlikely that is the case. If there were well zoomed pictures of that it would help. Someone will know what is going on. I’m convinced someone here will always have the answer.

You’ll have to get a better picture of what you are seeing as a letter.

Are any of the lines you are seeing raised? Or are they all incuse (into the coin)?

I can’t tell a ton by the pictures, but some of them are bag marks. I’ve been searching a lot of quarter rolls lately and the new issues are consistently beat up. Bag marked, rolling machine marked, etc.... Just because the lines don’t go all the way across doesn’t mean anything. Think about how other quarters could hit it in the huge bags they store and weigh them in.

It almost looks like a poor attempt at a counter stamp. Which is still just damage where someone tried to stamp something into the coin.