Woods020

I’m a dunce. The real smart guys will answer the hard questions. But glad to help

Yes sir it appears to just be toning/tarnish/oxidation.... 1964 is a common year and from the little I can see it is circulated so not worth much more than face value. If you want to keep these to start collecting or for sentimental reasons this would be good. But monetarily not worth anything extra. Also as you find things, members are very much here to help but kind of picky on what is needed to do so. If you find things of interest post a separate topic for each, and include pictures of the full coin both front and back. Cropped as close as possible and as clear as possible.

PayPal payments. I’ll cover shipping and fees. PM me for pics 1. 1873 $2.50 Liberty Head Closed 3 PCGS AU58 - SOLD 2. 1908 $2.50 Indian Head PCGS AU53 - $340 3. 1913 $2.50 Indian Head PCGS XF Details (Ex Jewelry) I don’t see mounting evidence and it’s beautiful for XF. But that’s the grade SOLD 4. 1853 $2.50 Liberty Head NGC AU Details - Mount removed $325 5. 1913 $2.50 Indian Head PCGS AU58 - $400 6. 1914 $2.50 Indian Head PCGS XF40 - $275 7. 1915 $2.50 Indian Head PCGS MS61 - $450 8. 1926 $2.50 Indian Head PCGS XF Detail - Ex Jewelry $250 9. 1926 $2.50 Indian Head PCGS MS62 - $500 10. 1913 $5 Indian Head PCGS AU55 - $550

Bump. Posting more coins tonight. If you need Morgan’s, raw or graded, send me a message.

TQJ, To help simplify keep any of the halves minted in 1964 or earlier. These will be 90% silver. Keep 1965-69 halves. These will be 40% silver. These can look very much like the 90% so that’s probably what made you think is was that Keep any Ike dollars with an S mint mark. Those are 40% silver. The remainder unless something looks to be in high grade probably not worth a lot of your time. High grade defined as having very few nicks/dings and no wear from circulation. Hope this helps. There are tons of varieties and such but probably not worth the time it would take to learn them all.

Yes sorry mis-wording on the original post. I should have said mint proof set. It’s definitely a proof. I just really like the color and hadn’t seen one toned exactly like this one.

I was at a monthly “trade day” today to enjoy some sunny weather, and bought a few coins. I bought a 1962 mint set in OGP for the nickel. My pictures stink, but it’s a deep blue/grey. Almost looks dipped the toning is so glossy. Thought some might enjoy. I’ll probably slab this one in the next grading submission just to preserve.

Welcome to the forum Carl! Doubling comes in multiple fashions. Not all of them are desirable or carry a premium. It appears your cent has machine or strike doubling. This is caused by the die moving when it contacts the planchet. This does not demand a premium and isn’t classified as a variety. True die doubling is a variety and carries varying degrees of premium. Some large some menial. I recommend comparing any potential varieties to the following website. This site lists the known and recognized varieties. If you see something on a coin that seems to match, post it on here for confirmation. But this is a great resource to familiarize yourself with. http://www.varietyvista.com/01b LC Doubled Dies Vol 2/DDR listing.htm

Die breaks and chips don’t even have respect for the ladies. This is a goody on a 1922 Peace Dollar I have. Ironically found this coin at a flea market in Philadelphia PA.

And to be clear not saying yours has the reverse die crack. Meaning this year quarter it’s something to look for

This is a recognized error on this quarter. I don’t think it demands a huge premium but it’s one roll hunters look for. This same quarter has a reverse die crack in the Buffalo people look for as well. A speared Buffalo.

I’ve kept a few like that. Poor Roosevelt has all kinds of facial issues on the dimes these days

I’ve been searching rolls this week. Not something I do often. But I’ve noticed a large amount of die chips on recent year dimes as well. Somewhere between 2017 and 2019 Roosevelt developed both acne and cold sores pretty badly. Seems a mint die lives a pretty rough life.

It’s sad. There really should be some oversight. Although I guess it makes sense in some ways that so many home made creations would be for sale on a craft sight 😂

I was unaware until recently that coins were sold on Etsy. I was searching for a coin and an Etsy listing popped up. Out of curiosity I went through some listings. If you think eBay is bad, Etsy is absurd. A site full of counterfeits and so called rarities listed for astronomical prices. I’m sure there are some legitimate listings, but that site has a serious problem.

Also just so you know, the mint doesn’t make a habit of putting Kellogg & Co on its coinage. The example presented from the heritage auction is the finest known 1854 Kellogg piece at MS65. And yes it was a territorial or privately minted piece. As I said if you read the description of the listing it’s informative. Lots of good history in it. I’m not trying to be a horses rear or to rain on your parade. I actually hope it’s real for you. However it displays a lot of telltale characteristics one would look for to indicate a replica or counterfeit. Maybe we are wrong. NGC can be your impartial retrial jury.

At this point your only option is to send it to NGC and get a second opinion. And please come back and tell us what comes of it.

I think it would come back damaged. Also it doesn’t have a full date, so they wouldn’t assign it a grade...I think. Someone can correct me if I’m wrong. But I’m pretty sure a legible date is required.

Darned if I know. I did some searching and couldn’t pin it down. The guidebook for Alabama tokens is a very primitive resource with little information. As I’ve started getting into tokens that’s been the biggest learning experience. Its nearly impossible to find much information on a lot of the historic businesses that utilized tokens.

That is about right. Or when they ask me to cut my camera on and there are quarters piled on my desk.

Congrats on the find! I just went through a bank box of quarters this week and found nada/nil/zilch. I was ironically thinking if I spent the time working a minimum wage job for the same amount of time it takes to search I could buy them all much quicker. But the search is the fun. And when I’m on conference calls it’s a great past time to keep from falling asleep during the day 😂

Here is an MS65 of the variety you mention sold on Heritage. I believe if you study it and your coin you will notice some differences. I’ll also list a link to that auction because it gives a very detailed description. https://coins.ha.com/itm/territorial-gold/1854-20-kellogg-and-co-ms65-pcgs-cac-short-arrows-k-1a-r4/a/1310-10166.s

The guide book lists it as aluminum. I agree it’s almost too clean. But it looks great In my newly started Alabama token album

This isn’t the coin the OP posted for the record.