Coinbuf

Just curious, why do you want to crossover this to NGC? The only added value I can see to changing the plastic is if it can be included in a registry set that requires this variety, and while I have not looked since NGC does not recognize this RPM there should not be a slot for it in any sets. Is there another reason besides value that is motivating you to cross this?

As you have been a long time seller on ebay than you should be well aware of the rise in fees to sell on ebay. I will also assume that you have an ebay store as that is the best way to mitigate those fees. The funny thing is that most of the sellers I see on ebay that have ebay stores are often the sellers with the most aggressive pricing, you would think that they would try and undercut the competition with their fee structure advantage, but it does not seem to work that way. Honestly, if you are looking for raw coins finding a local dealer will be your best avenue. A high percentage of the raw material on ebay is just pure junk, you will have to sift through a lot of chaff to find any wheat. I can more often than not buy raw coins cheaper at a local coin shop or at the monthly coin show than I can on ebay.

Depends on which red book you have, mine is older and the line for an 82S does not say large or small. The one you have is indeed a misprint as all the proof mintage coins that I have ever seen are all large dates.

No need to apologize for a valid question, yes you can find uncirculated 1975 Lincoln cents quite easily, either in mint sets as you suggested or by searching rolls. The issue is that finding a high quality, thus high value, 1975 Lincoln cent is quite another matter. Many mint sets have suffered the fate of improper storage so it is common to see the cents in those sets with spots, corrosion, or PVC, which makes them undesirable for many collectors. Rolls are also plentiful and easy to find, but many of those have already been searched and the few gems have already been plucked out. However, many of those coins in rolls and mint sets are nice mid-grade BU coins perfectly fine for use in albums or folders where many do not need an MS68 condition coin. Keep in mind that some of this discussion, and the viewpoints offered, depend on how one collects, albums vs registry. I do both and I have spent time to search thru rolls and mint sets so I do know just how difficult it can be to find coins that are suitable for slabbing. In fact, I rarely do that anymore, instead, when buying a coin for my registry set I would prefer to buy the coin already slabbed and let someone else do all that work. Basically that is correct, the small and large cents were not segregated out or distributed in any special way from the other. The red book I have does not list specific mintages and I have not seen any reference material that does. Both are reasonably plentiful but because of the hype the small date received it commands a higher price. As a result of the higher price, and unless you can find an untouched stash, you can expect that most of the mint sets and rolls in the market will already have been searched and any small dates likely already removed.

Sandon is correct, NGC will not certify something that is not in a reasonably secure holder, and the Capital plastic holder you have is not secure in the least. As neither Sandon or I work for NGC, I encourage you to contact NGC customer service to verify that, but I am confident that the official answer will be no.

The case for the use of a microscope, by a qualified professional numismatist, is very low, less than 1% of the time. If I cannot see something like an RPM or an OMM with a good loupe then either my eyes are so shot that I would be legally blind, or it is entirely insignificant. As you wrote, the use of such a tool by beginners is just pointless and a waste of time as most beginners do not have the ability to differentiate between cleaning evidence, evidence from the time of strike, and anything that has been deposited on the surface from circulation/handling. The many questions that we field here are proof of that! I believe that suggesting the use of such a tool is needed (at any time) only fosters and encourages a behavior that is unproductive, and I see that as a disservice to a new collector. So no, I do not need to rethink my stance on the use of microscopes in numismatics.

There is the slightest bit of worthless die deterioration on a few letters, but zero signs of any true die doubling at all. Lose the microscope, great tool for a lab, just plain useless for coins.

I am not aware of any way to leave comments on another registry set, either in the new or the old registry systems. There are no limitations on putting comments (well other than swear words) in the top commentary section of your own sets.

Nice.

A photo might help.

You would think that a guy with your credentials would do the tiniest bit of research before you put your foot in your mouth and look foolish. Even the most basic of research, checking the NGC explorer pop numbers for example, would have told you that there are no 1975 Lincoln cents currently graded higher than MS68. Putting that into layman's terms that you can understand, there are no MS70's for this date. Here is a list of just the sales at GC for 1975 Lincoln cents that have been graded as MS67 to MS68, every one of these has a value that exceeds the cost of submission even if submitted as a single coin submission. And each is graded lower than your fantasy MS70. Am I suggesting that the op should submit his coin, no I am not. The spots on the rev limit the grade to MS65 or perhaps a gift of MS66 at best, and both of those grades would be a loss given the true market values for those grades. Per usual, on matters of market values or grading, yours is the only comment that should be ignored. I have said it before, you should stick to research and writing because you have no clue about the coin market or collecting in this century, things have changed alot since the dawn of the industrial revolution.

Most likely a filled die from grease that the mint workers use. That prevents the metal flow when the coin is struck resulting in weak and missing details.

I have a few proof but this is my only unc ASE

I don't know if you are asking a question or just showing a coin. What you have is a circulated, corroded war alloy Jefferson nickel with some smutz and dirt on it. Due to its poor condition this coin has no collector value, but is worth the melt value of the silver contained in the alloy, which today is around $1.30.

I also tried this and did not see any change in the counter, however, perhaps the software "knows" who I am by the IP address, just guessing on that.

There are many good ebay sellers, the problem with ebay today is that sellers have to price at high retail due to the fees. If you look at the prices on ebay and then go to that seller's webpage, more often than not the same coins are less expensive than what you see on ebay. I have on a few occasions offered a seller the same price on his website thru ebay only to be turned down. I would also recommend that you look at the many auction sites, dealers have to get their inventory form somewhere, and a lot of it comes from auctions which they then add their markup to. Some of the dealers that I have bought from with no problems, Angel Dee's, Northeast Numismatics, DLRC, Gerry Fortin, Reeded Edge, and Coast to Coast. The one on-line resource I avoid is APMEX, I find their pricing to be too aggressive for my wallet.

Lem is correct, your coin does not qualify for a full band designation, your coin shows signs of time spent in circulation and the horizontal bands that wrap the fasces (the vertical lines) have to be full and split. You can see the splits on the edges of the bands on your coin, but the centers are fully blended from circulation use. While a perfectly good coin for an album, your 1942 dime is a very common date and only worth the value of the silver content. This is what a full band coin looks like, note how the horizontal bands are distinct and separate all the way across.

That is a generation 9 holder, in Conder101's reference he shows this holder being used from July 2001 until July 2003. I do not see any obvious signs of the slab having been tampered with, and the coin appears to be very nice and in line with the grade on the holder to my eye.

Fingerprints and spots are a death blow for me, made some mistake buys in the past with regards to those. Today I avoid fingerprints and spots with a passion, but I will say the type of coin one collects can have a big influence on how any collector approaches these things. As a copper guy, and mostly buying uncirculated copper, fingerprints just turn black and ugly. Whereas toned silver and dark circulated coins can hide and blend fingerprints and spots quite well at times.

This^

I think die polish is difficult for beginners to differentiate from cleaning hairlines, but most experienced collectors, dealers, and graders are not going to "miss" contact marks or damage from an improper cleaning because of die polish lines. At least not with an in hand inspection, judging from a photo it would be much easier to "confuse" hairlines with die polish. As to can it influence the grade, I want to say no but I suspect that in some cases it could and does. One thing to keep in mind is that if a die is polished many times, or a few really aggressive polishes, some of the minor details can be lost. So in those cases, at least in theory, the graders might deduct some for the detail loss. Going back to the Mercury dime, it is easy to tell an over polished die as the bridge of the nose will disappear as it sinks into the field. And if the die polish is an intrusion on the look or eye appeal of the coin that too could be a reason for a grader to deduct.

A very obvious counterfeit to my eye.

For me it's all a matter of degree, some die polish is ok and I do not automatically consider it as a negative. As written above the die polish shown in the photos of your example is rather extreme and that does tip into the negative eye appeal. The large and clear fields of the obv really highlight the polish lines, and I wonder if those are as noticable in hand vs how much they show in the photos. I have noticed that Mercury dimes in general seem to suffer from die polish lines often, most of the time I can look past it as it is "as struck". This coin from my collection sure has a lot of polish lines

Just a worn out die, there is no doubling on this coin.