Coinbuf

Oy vey.

Only Kurt is glowing.

Thanks Ali, all good.

Read some of the reviews from those not invested in the show and you might be glad you missed it.

Just like the bicentennial quarter you recently asked about, you are looking at a well circulated coin, so the answer to your question is no, nobody can say with definitive certainty that what you see happened when the coin was struck or after it left the mint. People can guess and offer opinions of what they think happened, but that is all it will be, guesses.

I did not think you were and was not trying to imply that you would. My point is that you say you are trying to learn, but what can you learn from a modern coin in this poor of condition. I don't mean to imply that you cannot learn from some circulated coins, but those (like this one) which have so much damage from the time in commerce are seldom useful learning tools. Maybe an analogy will better illustrate my point. You look at a wreck between a train and car, you turn to me and ask if the mangled car had a dent before the wreck, how would I know or be able to tell. You simply cannot separate the damage to your quarter from any possible anomalies that may have happened at the time it was struck. You have to have a better host coin that is not all banged and beat up to be able to learn anything. Curiosity is great and a good thing, but it serves no purpose on a coin like this.

While I voted yes, it is not the fee itself that is the issue here, but just one more fee or cost to what is rapidly becoming a very costly event. Gas or airfare, food and lodging, (for a larger show) it is all getting more expensive and adding an additional fee to enter the show is somewhat like that last straw. The $10 is not going to break anyone, but it seems a bit like rubbing salt into a wound, just unnecessary.

It can be removed very easily, but will leave a mark either from the mount or from the tooling to remove the mount on the rim which will be easily noticed by anyone that looks closely.

Some very cool items indeed. I do not collect foreign coins or paper so I will let others advise you on those. The only thing I can say is that the rooster gold coin would likely be considered damaged from the bezel and as such the value is around melt value. Both the Morgan dollar and Mercury dime are very common dates in well circulated condition, about Very Fine for the dime and about Fine for the dollar. In those grades both are worth the value of the silver content, about $2-$3 for the dime and $25-$30 on the dollar. That is not to say that there are not collectors for them, just not high value items. I myself recently put together an album of Merc dimes that look just like yours.

this quarter has far too much circulation damage and wear and tear to be of any numismatic value. I am guessing that you saw some you tube video that told you to look for filled mintmarks, you can stop doing that. There is nothing in the least bit of numismatic value or interest in filled mintmarks, utter rubbish. That may sound harsh and I'm not trying to be, but there is nothing to learn from super common coins like this in such poor condition. Absolutely no one can say with any degree of certainty if what you see on this coin is the result of production or circulation. Common modern coins in this condition are only good for spending, not for studying or learning.

Coinfacts does work for uncirculated and classic pre 1933 coins where there are going to be some circulated examples to look at. But the more modern you get the less likely you will find the types of circulated coins we see posted by the newbies on coinfacts. Thats why I feel photograde is usually a better resource for them.

@dprince1138 is a wealth of misinformation. Photo grade is the best on-line resource for newbies.

The steps are irrelevant as this is a well circulated coin and the value is tied to the silver content used in the war years for nickel production. Also, the link posted by @dprince1138 with regards to the NGC coin price guide is useless to you because your coin is not graded by a TPG like NGC, the price values in the NGC coin price guide are for coins that are graded not raw (ungraded) coins as you have.

Hi Ali, I need a date added, 1860-O, to the seated quarter type in the New Orleans type set. Cert #1608699-007

Now that is some serious irony. dcarr schooling Roger.

Welcome to the coin side of the house, not a stupid question and one that I wish a few people had asked before watching you tube videos. I will second the advice to not clean any coins other than an acetone bath if there is any green ooze. Post em up!

I think anyone (save one respondent that does not know about coins) that replied was very clear that sending a coin that has no special attributes, and in this condition, will not increase the value of the coin. You would get better value from your money if you light a $100 bill on fire to stay warm than to have this coin graded. I have no idea what you mean by "facility damage" as explained above this happens when the coin is struck and the die is loose in the press. It causes the die to bounce and produce a second lower relief image as you see in your coin. This is not damage, just poor production from an inattentive mint worker, it is very common and has no value to any knowledgeable collector. It is also not a true DDR or double struck as was incorrectly posted above. Your photos are slightly out of focus, not badly so but slightly. As I said above we need clear, cropped, in focus photos taken straight on (not angled) to be able to provide you with good feedback. Maybe you have heard the term "garbage in, garbage out", that is the case with photos, poor or incomplete photos result in poor or incomplete analysis. This is the type of photo we would ideally like to see, straight on, evenly lit, in focus photos. Then if you have an area of concern you can provide the closeup.

No one knows what @dprince1138's point is as he said nothing.

Please start a new thread to discuss your coin it gets confusing when multiple coins are posted to the same thread. Also please read the pinned post about posting etiquette, we need to see photos of the entire obverse and reverse and then any closeup of an area you have a question about.

Spreading false information like this is frowned upon by a mature population.

When you post photos we need to see the whole coin both sides, then you can post a closeup and questions about the area you are interested in. As you posted only the closeup I assume you think this is a valuable doubled die coin. But we cannot even tell what the date is to attempt to verify if there is a known doubled die for whatever date this coin is. However, from your photos this looks like worthless strike doubling on a well circulated coin with plenty of hits and scratches worth face value of $.50. This is known as a spender, but if you want to you can spend $40 on plastic, I would not recommend doing so unless I knew the date and could verify if it could be a known doubled die.

You seem to have poor reading comprehension skills, I said I posted that to help the op. Bty, accpetable is correctly spelled acceptable, poor grammar is rarely acceptable by a mature population.

My, you are very easily triggered. Have you read all the posts by the op? I have, and not one coin posted has been anywhere close to what the op thought. So possibly the op is just fishing after watching some of the many false you tube videos and has zero idea what to look for, or (and this is very likely as he/she uses a microscope) vision is a problem. My suggestion to get new glasses is only meant to help resolve that if vision is a problem. This is not daycare, perhaps you need to find a space that is safer for you.

My suggestion is new glasses.

MS64RD, ok for an album but not worth the fees to submit.