Coinbuf

To anyone reading this please disregard this post, everything in it is false and misinformation.

Not broadstruck, not an error, just a well used silver quarter worth its weight in silver.

Not that long, doesn't look to be much bigger than a jewelry box and the construction is much like one. The real concern is as mentioned above, the type and age of the wood used.

Agreed, your coin is not an authentic coin.

Sorry that the current forum troll has gotten your thread off track@Navyvet8192, seems to happen often. As a forum member you cannot delete a thread even if you are the thread author, and the mods take a very hands off approach on this forum.

Thanks for the additional photos, they confirm that your quarter has only worthless strike doubling. It is not an error and has no vale over the $.25 face value. Sadly you will see people try and rip people off with coins like this on sites like Etsy, ebay, fb, and others.

Welcome to the forum, your coin would have to weigh under the mint tolerance of .23g less than the standard weight of 5.67g before any discussion of added value can even begin. The reason your kitchen scale shows 5 is because it cannot weigh precisely enough and rounds to the closest round number. Once you have a correct weight to two decimal places, and if that weight is less than 5.44g, then you have something worth investigating. The odds are that it weighs right around or just under 5.5g (which triggers your kitchen scale to round down to 5) which is within mint tolerance.

Microscopes are great tools for laboratories and for highly trained specialist numismatist that are doing research on very obscure varieties. They are really worthless for 99.99% of anything coin related, all that will do is have you climbing down rabbit holes, total waste of money. Any decent cell phone or digital point and shoot can take a decent enough image for most coin purposes, coin photos are 98% about the lighting and 2% the equipment. The exception to this is if you are trying to use a 1920 brownie camera, that might not be so hot.

I have not tried your software myself as I am comfortable with my current way of tracking my collection and did not relish the thought of the time involved to convert all my info over to a new system. And before I started my business I was an accounting manager, so I doubt I need too much help in that regard either. But just a couple of thoughts of the top of my head if you are going to tailor this to collectors. Make sure your software has the ability to track all the costs. Beyond the original purchase cost a collector may incur additional costs during the time he/she owns a coin. Costs like sending to CAC, cost to reholder a coin, costs to have professional photos taken (including all shipping and handling costs). Many collectors never record all these ancillary costs and do not really know the true full cost of a coin in their collection. Perhaps a place to record insurance costs, bank vault costs, costs to attend shows or auctions could also be a useful tool for those that want to track the full nut costs of coin ownership. And of course disposal costs should be included too. My specialty was cost accounting so my mind just works that way. I'm not a dealer so I will not attempt to provide any feedback in that regard.

PCI holders have been known to produce some very wild and dramatic toning at times, and at times results like yours. Best of luck, I'm sure that NCS will do what they can just not sure what that will be.

You analysis is perfect, but the op's coin is a 1936 not a 1937.

Reported. To the op @Wallygirl72455 the title of your thread calls this quarter deformed, which it is, what led you to think it has any value? As has been said above damaged common coins seldom have any value over the face value.

Total train wreck.

Is the tone purple or black? Is there any luster movement under the toning? If it is black and there is no luster band movement under the toning I doubt that NCS will be able to do anything, once terminal tone is bonded to the surface you would have to strip away a deep layer of the coin surface to remove it.

If you want to maximize the sales price you will need to have it authenticated, most savvy buyers will consider a raw key or high value coin as suspect if not in a TPG holder due to the numerous fakes in the market. That is not to say that there are not buyers that will not buy a raw example, but most of those buyers are looking for a "deal" or a rip as many call it. The damage to the reverse of the coin will greatly reduce the value of the coin.

That was a very disappointing list for sure, it is also unfortunate that the survey had no provision to add any comments for each item on the list.

I will not be there.

Like all your other coins this coin has no collector value, unlike the other coins you have posted this coin has a slight value over the face value of one cent due to the copper content. Some dealers will pay up to three cents each for Lincoln cents minted before the composition was changed in 1982 to the zinc core copper plating in use today.

Worth one cent, spend it.

You really don't know anything about coins do you @dprince1138. @SalRos315 please disregard this information, it is completely false, your coin has what is known as split plating. Split plating is very common on the zinc core copper plated cents made after 1982, your coin has no value over face value. If you find it interesting and want to keep it that is fine, but it will never be worth more than the face value.

He is proudly showing off his harshly cleaned junk coin collection.