Coinbuf

Congrats on the straight grades.

Obvious counterfeit.

Welcome to the forum, first you should post inquiries like this on the newbie or US coin section of this forum, this part of the forum is for questions or issues with the NGC registry, general questions like yours will be seen by more of the members on those sections I recommended. As to your question, the term "unopened rolls" is the biggest goose chase scam in numismatics. The only time I might believe that is if I knew the source myself or saw the dust being blown of the lock box myself right before it was opened. What to do, if you bought this on ebay you can force a return even if the seller states no returns by using a SNAD claim. It's a somewhat Richard move as you are admitting that you already suspected what you would find, but the seller has no choice but to accept a return under that scenario. If you bought it from a different platform than ebay then you will have to contact the seller and see if you can work out a satisfactory solution. You could also chalk it up as a learning experience, what we like to call tuition.

Possibly, but when evaluating coins with this much circulation wear it is almost impossible to distinguish between circulation wear/damage and any minor striking anomalies like a worn die.

Welcome to the forum. I would advise caution in following or listening to the advice of dprince that I have quoted above, he showed up on this forum very recently and has proven to the membership that he knows little to nothing about coins. A telltale sign of how little he knows is that there is no grading term anywhere in existence or used by any knowledgeable collectors or dealers of XF+ While your coin may look "in relatively good condition" most collectors and dealers would consider it worth approximately it's weight in silver as it is a common date and readily available in much better condition than your coin shows in the photos.

Always nice to find silver in the wild.

Why do you think there is something else to do? You have a perfectly normal cent that is just slightly under weight. It may have been an end of strip planchet that is slightly thin. Not a big deal.

I am not Ali, however, proof coins are not varieties and not included into the mint state sets, NGC has separate sets for Lincoln cent proof coinage. Also there is no such coin as a DVB, perhaps you meant VDB? Nor did the mint produce a satin finish proof Lincoln in 1909, those early wheat proof coins are matte finish.

My answer is if you are wanting to sell then most of the time it is a wise idea with gold at its current price levels, it is certainly not required, but it can be helpful in todays digital age to have gold coins authenticated and have quality photos. Both NGC and PCGS offer quality high resolution photos at very reasonable prices. IF you plan to hold the coin for a long time then there is no need to spend those monies on certification, unless you are just curious.

That iridescent blue/purple tone is not an unusual color for a proof from that time period kept in the original mint cello but just not stored well. And that is the kind of color that some collectors will pay up for.

Welcome to the forum, unfortunately your double eagle absolutely looks like it has been cleaned from your photos. That will reduce the value quite significantly, however, it is difficult to know how much. I found only one record of an NGC graded 1858 as cleaned that sold on GC. This auction is quite old so I would think that even a cleaned example would sell for a higher price than this old auction as gold prices have risen since 2013.

Toning does not reduce the condition of a coin unless the tone has gone terminally black. At that point the tone has bonded to the surface and begun to etch the surface. But until that point toning is a matter of personal preference, in this current market toned coins are very much in vogue. Fifteen-twenty years ago blast white was the must have for a large portion of the market. No clue what will be in style twenty years from now, and yes for some types of toning there are people that will pay moon money and beyond just because of the toning. The catch here is that many sellers will hype less than attractive toning to buyers that do not know what toning is worth a premium and which is not; many an ebay ad starts with "rainbow toning" to describe a total POS.

Worth $1, there is no discernable true doubling, although I do see some minor, ultra common, and worthless strike doubling. Do you know the difference between real true hub doubling and the worthless strike or machine doubling? If not I suggest that you study up.

Far too nice a coin to be his anyway, just a photo he found on the web I'd guess.

Not sure if you have a match for DDO-10 or not, I do not see the little flag above the tail of the 2 in your photos, maybe the lighting is washing it out. I found one myself earlier this year going through some of my cent roll stash. As you wrote this is too minor to have any value and I believe that both NGC and PCGS stop at DDO-9 for attribution, still a fun find anyway.

Well first off I try never to "fill a slot with an inferior coin", not to say that I never have but I try not to do that now. Second, I never start a set or series without figuring out in advance if I can afford the coins in the grade range that will make me happy. Because of those two things, and unless there is some unforeseen event or outside force, I try and not upgrade as I find that to be a rather expensive process. If I was a collector of a difficult or esoteric series where upgrades are impossible to find or a 10X+ leap in cost I would likely just be happy with what I have or sell and move on to a series that fits my goals above.

How did you come to that conclusion? At the time this thread started there were very few (perhaps just the 5 that was claimed by the ebay seller) MS69 graded examples. Today there are many more graded MS69 coins just as was expected, see below for the NGC pops (did not look up the pops at PCGS) And prices have fallen just as predicted. From where I sit things have gone exactly as most predicted, certainly not a polar opposite.

Valid (tho pricy) option, another (also pricy) option would to build a clean room in your basement like Mr. Hanson has. While a wonderful option for those that have the funds to, only collecting gold is not a guarantee against toning either; I have seen many a toned gold coin.

Gen 5 holder

Gen 4 holder

Gen 3 holder

In case anyone is wondering the no-line fatty holders ended with the NGC generation 5 holders, Gen 2 holder

Toing happens as a result of the conditions and contaminates that the coin has been exposed to in the past and the conditions it is exposed to now. If you only want blast white coins then you have to be willing to spend the time and money on proper storage. And even that is not a guarantee the coins will not tone to some degree. If you live in a humid area or one that is prone to large swings in temperatures, you have to do more to combat those issues than say a collector like me that lives in a dry desert condition. My suggestion is to buy and use the Intercept Shield storage products along with ample desiccant products that you replace as needed. If your storage methods are not up to snuff you are likely to see many of your coins tone. And even with the very best storage methods you cannot control what conditions or contaminates the coins you buy may have been subjected to in the past. As to what to do with the coins you have that have now acquired some tone, well that is I personal choice. You could sell them and buy untoned replacements, or simply live with some color on those coins.