Coinbuf

What you are asking for already exists. The NGC registry system has two scoring systems, one that scores every coin, and the other that only scores NGC graded coins for the best in category registry awards. If you look at a set that has won for best in category you will see this under the set title. If you click on it you will see which years the set won for and if the award was for combined win or NGC only win, many sets will win both for some years. This set won the combined award three years in a row and won both the combined and NGC only in the third year.

While I have no doubt that this is a great program, the NGC registry/inventory system can do all of this, and it has a cost of $0.00 dollars. Hard to beat free. This is the only area of using the NGC registry/inventory that is poor, very poor. The reporting function available from the NGC registry/inventory system is well outdated and clunky to use, but it is there and once again the system is free. Just quite recently a fellow showed up both here and on the PCGS forum hawking his collection management software, here is a link to his thread here on the NGC forum for his software product. LINK I have no affiliation with this product, nor have I used it, so I have no opinion on it, just providing another alternative that you may wish to review.

Welcome to the forum, there is no "right" answer to your question, but if we knew your motivation for wanting to send these for grading that would provide some context and better answers. Some collectors prefer the coins as they came from the mint, and others want them graded to use in registry sets. The problem for you is that any that grade less than PR70 DCAM will be significantly discounted if you try and sell them. So, if your goal is to sell these coins, and you receive a high percentage of PF70 DCAM grades , then it is possible that you could sell them for a higher price (in cumulative) than if sold in the mint packaging. But if you get a high percentage of PF69 DCAM or lower then you will likely be in the red after all the costs are accounted for. If you are keeping the coins (and don't want them for a registry set) then there is no reason to spend the monies to have them graded, the mint packaging is more than sufficient to protect the coins as long as you are doing your part with good storage procedures.

Good luck on getting the points revised, that will give me a good reason to upgrade my MS67.

This is rather confusing as you posted a 1/20oz coin above but consider a 1/10oz coin not a good deal? In the end the choice comes down to what you like and what you want the coin for. Modern bullion like the AGE series of coinage is fine, they are a nice pleasing design choice and easily bought and sold for stacking purposes. Given your price point another great choice is what Neo suggested above, a nice AU Indian quarter eagle. However, in my mind the best band for your buck is a $20 Saint. Yes, that is well above your price target and you would need to save up for a bit, but it is a big gold coin and can often be found priced closer to spot (relative to the amount of gold) than most of the other choices.

It looks to be a proof coin, all proof coins are expected to have full steps and that is not something that the TPG's note on proof labels. Furthermore, the coin does not look as though it would be worth the costs to have graded from what I see in your photos.

I have no clue (nor do I care much) as to how the market is digesting this NCGX stuff. I am not and will never be a collector of NCLT so I pay it no mind.

Thanks for adding the obv photo @jmcpenny. Given the condition of the coin I see nothing that a diagnosis of PMD would not explain, and also nothing that could be easily explained as an error.

Pretty coins. I might gravitate towards the 1823, but only slightly.

Welcome to the forum and thanks for posting nice, large, cropped photos, it makes it so much easier to answer questions with good photos. Unfortunately, the answer to your question is that your coin is worth only its value in copper, there is nothing special about your coin. I would caution you to be wary of much of what you see/hear on you tube, there is some good content posted there about coins but the vast majority is bull squirt just designed to get clicks and likes. If you would link the content that you found that lead you to think this might be valuable we may be able to unravel the real content from the hype. Many of the get rich quick you tube sites use a bit of fact and then embellish that with lots of hype. Looking at auction records the highest price I see paid for a 1970-D Lincoln cent was in 2016. The price paid was just over $2,800.00 but that was for the highest graded uncirculated coin on record. Many of those you tube sites hype the thought that it is always possible to find something in your change or "penny jar". But the fact is that while possible, the odds are better of winning the lottery than finding valuable coins in your change. Most that hunt through change or rolls from the bank know what to look for and even then they know the odds are against them.

Back on track.

Cannot tell from your photo, are the cents all bright and red or are they toned from the bag? I would imagine that they are not in great condition from being banged around in those bags all these years.

I am also in the VF35 camp, the verdigris and a possible old cleaning are the wildcards on if it would straight grade or not. If the rev photo is accurate, it gives the impression of having been cleaned long ago. Value, $900 to 1.2K in a straight graded VF35 holder, $500-$600ish if it got a details grade.

I've never been a fan of the coin, not much of an artistic design from my viewpoint. But I have seen a few of the really high-grade coins with intense luster, especially those that have the very light translucent blue tone, that can be attractive. If you could find one of those in a holder that you like it could be a cool addition to your collection for both the coin type and also perhaps the holder.

It all depends on your motivation to have these three graded Lee. Your photos of one side in the album are insufficient for anyone to be able to provide any real feedback. If you need these for some purpose like a registry set then that may make it worthwhile for you. It would be difficult for this to make sense monetarily unless you are really convinced (having them in hand) that they have a real shot at 67+ or better. Edited to add: Also keep in mind that currently only the people that invested in CACG have the ability to submit coins, even if you are a CAC collector submitter like I am we cannot submit to CAC Grading at this time, only to the stickering service. There are some rumors that the grading will be opened to collector members soon, but nothing concrete has been communicated on this as of now.

Welcome to the forum, I suggest you edit your original post to delete the body and change the title to "Delete" to avoid confusion. Also there is a pinned post that discusses the guidelines for using the marketplace to sell coins. I have highlighted below some of those that it would be useful for you to follow, I realize that what you have is basically bullion and one looks much like another, but photos are a must for internet selling.

I will add that unless you are wanting to sell the coins or want them into NGC plastic for a registry set there is no good reason to attempt to cross. Larry Briggs is considered a very good grader, however the market has always been suspect of dealer run grading companies, with good reason. As I said if you want to sell the coins, and depending on what the coins are, it may be worth the cost to cross to make the coins more attractive to potential buyers. As Sandon wrote modern coins and NLCT are not going to be worth the cost to change the plastic, and SEGS slabs are some of the hardest to crack, those buggers are made to last.

Please forward my thanks to the IT team, seems to be fixed now, and naturally thanks to you Ali for all the hard work you do with the registry.

Keep it in the current holder if you want all that information to stay on the holder.