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Coinbuf

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Everything posted by Coinbuf

  1. As has been said poor storage has ruined a great many of the 60's, 70's, and even many of the 80's mint and proof sets. People would buy them and then throw them into a box and shove that into an attic or basement. Heat and humidity are tough on coins stored in the older packaging which as @JKK noted had PVC in the materials. There are still nice sets out there that have been properly stored, but many of the collector estates that are being liquidated by heirs are full of these improperly stored coins. As such many local coin shops and retail outlets like ebay become the dumping grounds for the chaff, the good stuff that shops are occasionally offered are usually broken up with the best or pretty toned coins being sent to grading.
  2. Welcome to the forum, not in the new system, at least not that I know of. However, you can get this information (and more) from the old registry system. If you are not aware, the old registry system, the previous version before the registry was updated, is available at WWW.Collectors-society.com. You use the same login and password as you currently use once logged in you will click on the NGC registry tab. Then hover the mouse over the "My Collection" tab and a dropdown menu will appear, select "Collection Manager" and you will be taken to a list of your coins that you have loaded into your inventory. Scroll down and at the lower right under the guide collum you will see a total that represents the NGC guide price for your coins. To the left of the guide collum is a collum titled "Purchase" and if you have input any of the purchase prices for each coin as you entered them into your inventory that total will also be shown Keep in mind that the NGC guide is just that, a guide, and in general I have found the NGC guide to be on the slightly optimistic side. Also, the "value" of your collection may be higher or lower if you sent everything to auction today, but that will give you a decent starting point for value. You can also run an inventory report from the old system, once again this is in the drop down menu under my collection.
  3. Worth exactly twenty five cents, spend it wisely.
  4. I agree, this coin is just a normal quarter that was used for a while in commerce and received a few scrapes and dings.
  5. I don't need to review a coinfacts link, I've been collecting Lincoln cents for decades and I have seen examples of this DDO in hand. Looking at photos is great but it is not a replacement for actual eyes on the real thing. As I said this coin could be an example of this DDO; and I also said it may be too worn to be able to authenticate, but from what I can see it should not be dismissed without an in-hand review. If you read the thread that Sandon linked above I asked that op for a photo of the "TY" of Liberty, if the op @Erin33 is still reading this thread perhaps he/she can provide a closeup of that on this coin, would go a long way to proving or disproving.
  6. You seem to have missed altogether what I circled, as I wrote above look at the horizontal line that is visible on the lower part of the seven crossbar, I did not circle the crossbar because it is thick. That line separates the upper and lower sections of the crossbar and is a strong indication of the DDO as the line bisects the crossbar and the lower section is clearly at or about the same level of the upper portion of the crossbar and is far too wide to be just MD. The thickness of the vertical section is easily attributed to the level of wear and is not (imo) a concern on such a well-worn coin. What does give hope for a true DDO is the presence of that line that separates the crossbar, that is the same on the op's coin and all of the images you will see on all the reference sites. What the op did not provide is adequate photos of the letters of IGWT, this is a coin that should be reviewed in hand and not be dismissed so easily. Even if we had photos of the IGWT letters, this DDO is not easy to diagnose from photos on a coin with this level of wear.
  7. $37.64 was paid according to the invoice. As to worth today I do not follow early 18XX proof coinage or pricing; a big chunk of change I would think.
  8. Here is the op's photo of the seven in the date, and a comparison of the seven from the photo on Lincolncentresource. Notice the line at the bottom of the top serf of the seven which shows the separation and the doubling, the op photo has the same line as that shown in the reference photo. I'm not saying that this is for sure a 17/17 example, or given the amount of wear that it could even be attributed as one, but I think it deserves an in-hand review before being dismissed.
  9. It is possible that you have a legit example of the 1917 DDO. It is something that would need to be seen in hand to verify as your coin is so worn, but the 7 in the date does look to match. But due to the well-worn condition I just cannot tell or say for sure from the photos, this is a coin that could be worth submitting.
  10. Neither of your two coins appears to be cleaned to me from your photos. Copper is a very reactive metal and tones very easily depending on the storage and environmental conditions that the coins/metal come into contact with. Also, the mint has used multiple sources for the raw copper over the years, that also lends itself to slightly different toning colors. I have been a hard-core Lincoln collector for the past 40 years; I have seen Lincolns cents with just about every color imaginable, however the TPG's (like NGC) group copper into three colors groups, red, red-brown, and brown. There is in fact a small group of collectors that rabidly seek out toned copper coins.
  11. As long as the cert number works when you enter it manually I would not worry about it. Every now and then a cert number can get "lost" from the database, when that happens a call to customer service is needed to fix the issue. Your coin is an older holder, prior to when NGC started to include slab photos that are shown when you do a cert number search, but the correct information is displayed when I enter your cert into the cert verification tool on the NGC website. If it really bothers you, you do have the option to send the coin into NGC and have it reholdered, that way you would have a new prong holder. That would be nice for two reasons, you would be able to see some/most of the edge lettering on the coin, and it should also fix the problem of the barcode not scanning.
  12. I do not work for or speak for NGC, however, in the past the reasons given were that there were too few graded examples so that only one, or perhaps two collectors, would have access to those coins. The other often cited reason is that for extremely expensive coins, coins that only a very few collectors could reasonably be expected to afford, are used as display only. The thought process behind both of these reasons is that it would be unfair to collectors in general if a set could only be completed by one or two collectors as a result of extreme price or lack of availability.
  13. Both of your newps are very attractive, congrats on acquiring those.
  14. Welcome to the forum, what shows when you scan the barcode? And are you using a smart phone to scan it? Were you expecting to be taken to the NGC website when you scan it?
  15. No, the TPG's will seldom do any restoration on copper of that age. This coin would look very unnatural if it had a different look. There is nothing that can be done to reverse the years of commerce that your coin has seen, it is what it is.
  16. Great coin for an album collector, but not in good enough condition to be worth the costs of grading and slabbing. Like everyone else I see no signs of any true die doubling, it may exhibit some minor and worthless strike, aka mechanical, aka machine doubling. As far as the "L" of Liberty being so close to the rim that is very normal, over the years the prolonged use of the master hub caused the lettering to be shifted towards the rim on the working dies. This is further exacerbated by the overuse of the actual working dies that are used in the press to strike the coins.
  17. I have not seen any real buzz about this, at least not enough to think this has taken off. Much like Greg said above this seems like a corporate stuffed shirt idea, and as often happens the corporate greed attempts to push the program harder rather than end the project, and then there is the issue of the stuffed shirt needing to justify his program/salary so the program must be shoved harder for that too. Honestly it still all means nothing to me, this NGCX scale is just the sheldon MS scale redefined, confusing and unnecessary, but hardly innovative.
  18. As I recall the original press release said these NGCX products are limited to 1982 and later.
  19. It reminds me of a 1940's poster, not saying that is good or bad just the feel it gave me. Is a four hour show worth the time for dealers?
  20. Only you can decide what this type of coin is worth (to you) and if you should buy it. Personally, I wouldn't pay ten cents for this mutilated dime, but I know that other collectors are excited by this type of error.
  21. I have decided to list these here prior to starting the ebay listings on Sunday night. I will list each and the prices I'll be putting up on ebay, these prices are negotiable for anyone here as I won't have to pay the ebay fees. All the photos were done by Mark Goodman so they are as good as it gets, LMK if one strikes your fancy. 1881-O $75 1881-O $75 1882-S $225 1885 $300 - VAM3 1885-O $50 1887 $150 1889 $75
  22. Bob is correct, the same thing just different terminology used by the different TPG's.