Coinbuf

Just struck from a very tired and worn out die.

I would check the 1920 and 1945 dimes for a mint mark (D or S), if there is one it will be found on the rev (the side with the axe) at the bottom just to the left of the axe. Slim opportunity for some value over melt if there are any mint marks. Also in the photo there is a quarter that has a flying eagle on the rev which I see in the photo but not on your list, check the date and any mintmark (will be on the front just left and above the date) again slim chance of value there.

Best guess, this is an alt for someone that got butt hurt before, no big deal. Very funny thou as he hates coin forums but has several threads going, not sure how spending time on a forum that he hates is considered a good use of time.

Well I took a look and from what I can see all of the silver; except the 1882 CC Morgan, is really just worth the silver melt value. I cannot tell about the silver in the small tin as that you would need to go thru each date to see if there is any that are rare, but in general I would expect that most of it would also fall under the silver melt value. The 1882 CC Morgan I would grade at MS63 from the photos and is worth $170-$180 approximately in that condition. All in all its a nice collection just not one that has a very high value to it, something that many non collectors are not aware of is that most old coins are not really rare or worth very much unless in great to excellent condition like the 1882 CC. The lone copper large cent is worth around $15 to maybe $20 I'm guessing. Just so you know I'm a collector not a dealer so the thoughts and prices I've given you could be low or high depending on how and where you attempt to sell.

Need to see more than just one small section of the coin, please post a full obv and rev. I don't see enough in that first photo to call this a double die.

I am guessing that the ANA registry will not have the 75% rule, probably no required percentage of either TPG would be my guess for the ANA awards. Maybe that will pave the way for the NGC registry awards to drop PCGS graded coins from the scoring all together, still be visible in the sets just not counted for registry points, maybe not. I certainly hope that the current 75% requirement will not dropped for the NGC registry.

The toning is fine, nearly pure silver will tone that way sometimes, the rev label looks fine and I see no evidence of tampering. I think that obv label is one used just for bullion which is what threw me off at first, I'm 99% sure you are fine.

Welcome to the boards, in order to give you any advice we need to see both sides of the coin and in this case the slab, all TPG slabs have had some thickness variations due to design changes and sometimes supplier variations. From your one obv photo the label does not look quite right, but a photo of the rev and rev label will be needed.

This was a very short lived version labeled generation 6 in the Conder101 book where the PCGS coin number and series numbers do not appear. Reported to have been used only for Nov and Dec of 1998, soon replaced with a version where the coin and series numbers are printed on the front of the label. On the PCGS museum of slabs PCGS does not differentiate between the many number of transitional labels that were used and this would be call a generation 4 holder by PCGS used from 1998-2002 as Greenstang noted.

Thanks everyone, Bob is very very good as are a number of people that frequent the boards ATS. Read it cover to cover many times, still learning with every shot. Thanks but remember these are Marks photos not mine, my tries on some of these were awful. Heavy toning like this specked look are super tough, its all in the lighting and lens and I just don't have the right equipment yet. Its very odd that tone like this for me at least looks very different in hand vs a high res photo, seems like the eye can see through it better than the camera lens

Nice RPM. Crazy that you did not need an electron microscope to see it.

Sorry I was thinking 79 for some reason, T1

Looks like a type 2 to me.

Welcome to the boards and sincerest condolences on the loss of your loved one. First and foremost please do not attempt to clean or improve any of the coins as it does more harm than good. Condition is one of the most important aspects when determining value so that is where we need to start. From your list many are common coins and their value will be $50 =/- depending on the grade, however a few are worth more again depending on the condition. If you have a local library I would suggest checking out a redbook and looking up each of the date and mintmarks for the individual coins. Here is a link to something called Photograde, here you can compare your coins to the photos and decide what grade best fits your coins; keep in mind that as you are just starting out your grade may differ from that of an experienced collector or dealer. Photograde Here is a link to the coin explorer area provided by NGC Coin explorer there you can look up your coins and find information on each coin including some general values once you have decided on what grade you think each coin is, very similar to the information available in a redbook. These will get you started and then I would recommend taking the coins to a reputable coin dealer in your area from this link Dealers and have them reviewed for authenticity and to verify your grade assessment. From there it will be up to you to decide if you want to sell or hold the coins, if you want to sell there are a few options such as selling to the dealer the you have review the coins (I would recommend getting at least two dealer offers if possible), selling on ebay, and some other options also. Best of luck and we can answer any questions you have on specific coins if you can provide us with clear in focus closeups of both sides of any of the coins you have.

Impossible to say without an example, could be anything form planchet flaws to irregularities in the coining process and/or with the dies.

I have been practicing my photo skills and have gotten much better thru some practice and trial and error. But I am nowhere near the skills of the pros and so every now and again I send some coins out to Mark Goodman for some real quality photos. For those who may not know Mark he was a regular member of the board ATS and has written a book that is considered the bible for coin photography by some. So I just got back a batch of photos and would like to share a few, most of these were coins that no matter what I just could not get a decent shot due to slab irregularities and in a couple of cases the speckled toning like on the 1909 S/S. So hope you all like the new photos.

I do not see any clearly split serfs so my opinion is not a double die, as Greenstang said its common MD or die erosion (die deterioration) doubling. Cannot comment on any die clashing as we need to see photos of the whole obv and rev not just parts of it.

I for one am enjoying this thread very much, looking forward to the next segment.

I certainly am no expert but my thought is that if your seeing this on a number of coins I would think that it is due to die wear/worn out die rather than grease. It is indeed unfortunate that coin facts was gutted in an attempt to rescue the firms reputation.

I find medals and tokens very cool but just really cannot build the interest to collect those, same as I love patterns but not in a way that I want to collect them. Be sure to post yours up so we can all enjoy them vicariously.

I enjoy it here better than ATS, I post to both but its just more relaxed and calm (most of the time) here and the members are not so uppity. The #1 forum (as you call it) has far too many coin snobs that are only interested in a coin if it has their brand of plastic surrounding it, just not the way I collect. Like any forum it is what the members make of it and it would be nice to see some increased activity so long as that activity is worthwhile and not about fantasy coins that don't exist; if you know what I'm saying.

Are you sure it is not a high leaf.

Welcome to the boards, you have the large date which is common, you need it to be a small date (D mint mark) in order to hit the jackpot.

We're not just talking about major awards yes those have to be at the 75% or higher NGC graded coins in order to win; that is not what I take issue with. Many; in fact most; of the awards are given out for best in category and there is no percentage requirement for these awards, and before you say it yes I'm aware that there is also the NGC best in category that only calculates the score on NGC coins. Granted those are just paper certificates but I just don't see the point in having the two best in category awards, it should be NGC coins only for the best in category awards. I think its ridiculous and pathetic that sets which are 90% and in some cases 100% populated with only PCGS graded coins are receiving awards (yes I know only a paper certificate) from the NGC registry. And to be fair if NGC were to make that change it would reduce the number of winning sets I currently have, but I'm still in favor of only NGC coins being counted for best in category sets (or at least use the same percentage rule as the major awards) and I'm also in favor of raising the percentage to at least 80%. I am in complete agreement and in fact love that NGC has gone back to allowing PCGS coins in the registry for the purpose of sharing the owners set, I just don't think sets that are made up of mostly or completely PCGS coins should receive NGC awards.

Congrats!