Coinbuf

1) I believe the guide is compiled from auction results, I'm not sure what auction sites and while it is updated only NGC knows how frequently it is updated. 2) Tough to generalize as quality and desirability of the coins, and the small number of eyeballs that see the BST forum are big factors. I don't think the BST prices are much lower than what could be realized from another venue (maybe 10-25% less than Ebay as an example), but the small number of people that see the threads limits the possible sales. 3) For common coins many dealers will use the bluesheet (the bluesheet and graysheet is a paid subscription that dealers can buy and is similar to your Kelly blue book thought) as a guide for offer/buy prices on common coins. For Better date, more desirable, and eye appealing coins some dealers will get closer to retail especially if they have a ready buyer/buyers for that material. 4) What JKK said. 5) The greysheet is what some dealers use to price common coins. For collectors the best source is to look at Heritage (Heritage Auctions) and Ebay closed auctions for guidance on what items are selling for. You will see a bell curve for most coins and grades with the outliers being the superb and the dog examples at each end of the curve. At the end of the day what you have to sell and to how is key to realized price. A dealer needs to buy at 60-70% of retail to make money, selling to a dealer is the fastest way to sell coins but you will most likely receive the least amount. Consigning to auction houses may or may not result in a better return but there are fees involved. Selling yourself should net the biggest return but will require the most time to research, list, ship, etc.

There is no thread or place where orders are shared on this site, the logical location for such a thread would be in the US/World coin section of the forums. I don't really see it gaining much traction tho as we have very few regular posters, and of those I have no idea how many submit on any regular basis.

I have seen at least one other example of this and die polishing is the logical explanation. Notice that a portion of the coat under the bow tie is also missing, must have been a bad clash or perhaps a small section of the die broke off.

AU53 and MS63 is my call on grades.

Still in the GSA holder ungraded with a touch of color.

Looks like a bit of a reflection doesn't look like toning to me.

Sorry I don't have an answer as I've never consigned to Stacks, but I think its safe to say that there will be some additional charge for them to have your coins graded. Auction fees can be negotiated if you have very expensive, high demand, or a very high volume of coins to consign. Last I knew the sellers fee was 10% of the hammer, but that may be higher today. Best of luck, just a side note you can sell your coins here in the Coin Marketplace section of the NGC forums. There is no charge to sell and you don't have to have the coins graded and slabbed to do so; follow the rules and provide good quality photos and you might find a buyer or two. The down side is the limited number of people that will see what you have for sale here.

I cannot say for sure but I think you have the satin finish (also called SMS coins) for the 2007 and 2008 coins but an in-hand exam is the only way to be sure. The way to tell them apart is satin finish coins will have a sandblasted low shine look, as I said some regular strike coins will be less brilliant and but wont have the sandblasted look that satin coins have. The White Mountain "S" mint coin was not made in the satin finish only regular strikes and proof strikes. Yours doesn't appear to be a proof so it must have been the regular strike that was only used for mint sets. Anyway hope that helps and good luck on finishing the sets.

Nailed it! Lazy or deceptive seller, we may never know which but a good decision to pass.

Well as raw coins each is worth $.25 to maybe $1 to someone looking to add those to a state qtr album. I find proof qtrs all the time in change from proof sets that have been broken up by dealers that wanted just one of the coins, or perhaps by heirs of a collector that just spent them. In fact I have so many I was considering doing a date run of impaired (circulated) statehood proof qtrs, perhaps one day. As to the other two its not unusual to find qtrs that have a more satin or less flashy appearance, I have found that to be especially true of coins that are coined in Philadelphia but have seen some Denver mint coins like that also. All these would make great album coins imo, or did you have a different plan for them?

We need to see both sides of each coin.

Someone used a sander of some type to remove some of the copper layer to reveal the zinc core, why is anyone's guess.

The bad news that the 1910 you have in your photo is now ruined by your attempt to clean it. The good news is it wasn't valuable (maybe worth $.50 prior to the cleaning) so you haven't lost much. If you have any other old coins please do not attempt to improve them, you will do more harm than good. While you may have read on the internet or watched a video on utube that told you every old coin is valuable, that information is misleading. Many old coins are valuable but a great many are worth $1 or less.

Interesting, A couple of possibilities come to mind, the seller doesn't want the cert number to be "stolen" and used in the registry by someone that doesn't own the coin, the seller has more than one to sell and is using a stock image, or the sell didn't take a photo of the one for sale and is using this image in place of his own. As you've contacted the seller I would see what they have to say, but no matter the response I would be inclined to simply pass on it due to this red flag.

Do you have a photo of the slab/label?

Absolutely true the odds are good you would receive at least PR67 or better, the problem is that you need better than that to have any chance of recouping your cost of having them graded.

We would need to see a photo taken with the coin out of the 2X2, the window material distorts what is visible.

There was one OMM for the memorial series but it was later debunked. The reason there are none is exactly what @kbbpll posted, its impossible due to how the dies were prepared. If you look at the rest of the coin from the OP (what we can see of it anyway) this coin was struck from an extremely worn die (note the mushy lettering above the portrait) so my guess is that what you see in the number 8 is from die fatigue or a possible strike thru.

I also see die deterioration doubling along with some plating bubbles.

At least he didn't want to show us his moby.

It all looks like MD to my eye.

In that condition its worth $.01 nothing more.

First this area (the coin marketplace) is for posts about coins for sale not for discussions about coins, please use the newbie questions or US/world coin areas for questions and discussions. Second no not worth grading.

Really it comes down to the market you want to sell to and prices. Originally these were bought and graded for a few reasons; the owners liked the safety and security of the slab, hoping for an MS70 either for a personal registry set or to sell to a registry collector around the time of release. Now the registry collector market has been mostly satisfied and with the price of gold up even MS70's aren't selling for much over melt prices. If I were considering selling I wouldn't bother with the grading costs and sell as is. The one thing you do gain by having them graded and slabbed is if you plan to use a platform like Ebay, buyers may feel more secure that they are as advertised and not a fake. That security may help you to sell them faster especially if your not an Ebay seller with lots of sales/feedback.

As you said there is no such thing as average to be expected. Having said that anything between PR65 to PR69, with or without the CAM or UCAM designation is possible. Just a side note the set you have in the photo the cent would not grade CAM or UCAM without a bath to remove the haze. Only talking about the cents now; the real question is why would you bother, if you have the type 1 coins you will never be able to recoup the cost to have these graded unless you hit the lottery and get a PF70 UCAM (very low pop). If you have the type 2 coins you would need at least PR68 UCAM to break even, side note PR69 UCAM is the highest grade in the pop report (again I'm talking about cents here). If you need one for a set that's graded and slabbed your better off buying one already graded than spending the monies to submit, but its your dime so do as you wish.