Coinbuf

If you add photos to the coin description using the old collectors society system the photos will show up, I am almost 100% in my custom set.

Thank you for the additional photo, your coin appears to be a wide AM, what year is it?

Cool show us what you got.

Welcome, we are going to need a photo that is a clear in focus close up of the rev and obv (to see the date), no one can tell you anything about the details from a photo that far away from the coin. Also please crop your photos so are are not looking at an acre of background in the future.

Utter fail, hard pass.

Yes it does appear to be.

Looks like a die scratch or break.

Looks like the coin is a detector find and was buried in the ground at some time. It could have been exposed to an acid like a pool acid or something similar as well, unfortunately there is no way to every know for sure what caused the damage to this coin.

No it is not but as I always say when people are using high magnification, everything looks like something at the micron level.

Welcome to the boards, to answer your question no that is damage that happen after the coin left the mint.

Yes it is.

Lets suspend reality for a second, what would having the mint apply a matte finish to a dime blank prove? We already know the mint can apply different finishes to blanks as they have produced matte coins for sets. All that would prove is that the mint could do something that we already know it can do. It would in no way prove that your coin was in fact produced by the mint and not altered later. And how is a mint employee expected to verify anything (and what distinct detail do you expect them to review) all that employee can do is look at your coin and render an OPINION, which is what many experts have done via photos and you continue to deny those opinions. And what happens when you disagree with the mint employee's opinion, what tests will you demand then, seriously. Now back to reality because in reality the mint is not going to do what you want, why because its pointless and they are not in the business of performing such "tests". There are no meaningful tests that can be done, the only way to prove your theory is to find mint records that show where such a finish was applied to one or more dimes at the Denver mint in 1993. But without such documentation you will never be able to prove its anything other than a post mint experiment worth 10 cents.

It is actually very common, I have 20-30 proof statehood quarters that I have pulled out of change. Proof sets from the 70's and 80's have lost so much value because the mint made so many of those sets that some dealers when buying a collection may only pay face value for those sets and then break them out and in some cases just use the coins as change.

It is a large date so worth face, the 2 in the date has taken a hit and moved some metal still just worth face value.

Very frosty @kenlee47

Is it just me or does that mintmark not look correct, looks altered.

Actually points are awarded to PCGS graded coins for the overall best in class awards, there is a second category called NGC best in class where the PCGS coins show in the slot but with a zero for the score. I always did; and still do; like to see both companies represented equally in the registry sets, it allows for complete sets to be built where that would be difficult in some instances due to few or no coins available in NGC holders. While those instances are not common it does happen, as is the case for one coin that I have searched for an NGC certified example and have found none. However when it comes to awards those NGC awards should be calculated on NGC holdered coins only (imo) as PCGS has its own awards. Keep in mind that I'm discussing US coin sets, world coin sets are a different set of rules where PCGS coins are not allowed at all.

As usual and the norm for you just another excuse, another reason to tuck tail and run, what a show of intestinal fortitude.

Actually I believe that both you and the op have lost, both of you have shown a complete lack of the fundamentals of the coin coining process and have lost whatever credibility you had coming into this thread. You have made several threats to send this in and get a definitive answer yet no action, zero. You both talk a ton but your actions tell the real story and we all see the truth.

love it.

Cool find>

Welcome to the boards, in the future please provide photos of both sides of the coin, that would aid greatly in answering your questions.

The worn condition of your coin makes finding any of the pups from a photo near impossible, I think only an in hand exam with a loop would be useful as the other pups are quite minor. I think you may have a late die state version but given the overall condition of the coin I don't know if it would be worth the costs to get verified.

It has been addressed many times and your complete and total lack of and understanding of what a die marker is, is very telling.

This is my go to storage for my coins, Intercept as a copper collector proper storage is important. This may be over kill for your needs but also at that site are similar boxes that are more suited for 2X2's and flips. For flips