Coinbuf

Super group of old holders, love the 38-D gen 2.1 holder.

One of my long term goals has always been to add more large cents to my collection, however given my age I had better get moving or I'll run out of time.

You are looking at the price guide for MS (mint state) coins not proofs, neither NGC or PCGS list any census data for a DDO proof 1958 Lincoln cent because one does not exist. While its possible the odds are extremely against you having the one and only DDO 1958 proof; basically you have better odds of winning the lottery,. Its your choice and you can spend the money to send it anywhere you want but in my opinion you will just be wasting your money.

I am going to say this and it will sound very harsh, hopefully you will not take this personally. If you truly think that this is how an uncirculated Morgan dollar should look you need to stop buying any coins and start doing some serious learning. Only the greenest of newbies would ever consider this polished damaged (maybe even counterfeit) complete turd of a coin as anything other than a cull. The only redeeming aspect of this purchase is that you did not massively overpay for this junk dollar, that said if you attempt to sell this to any dealer or collector that knows anything at all about coins you will be lucky to recover the silver value (assuming it is silver) of around $20 for it. Seriously I'm saying these things not to be mean but in the hope that you will stop buying and educate yourself before you buy anymore junk like this again.

Another from my 7070 album

You are reading too much into the add NGC is not endorsing L&C, L&C has paid for the advertising space of that banner. Having said that I have only bought one item from L&C and that was an item they had on eBay a few months back. It was rather pricey (as most are on eBay) but I had some e bucks to burn so that brought it down to a reasonable price. I had no issues the item was delivered quickly and I am happy with the purchase.

Nothing more than a worn out die, no die doubling of any kind.

Also in my 7070 album.

Not sure if this has been mentioned but it would be nice to have an option to sort registry sets by the most recently updated, if this is already available and I missed it then disregard.

Can you provide links to your registry sets or have you closed them all out already? Might make it easier for those interested to be able to identify your coins from the other 11K coins that are being sold on GC.

While I cannot say for sure I put this behavior into three buckets. Bucket one consists of people that lack good grading, or authentication, skills and/or vastly overestimate the grade/value of the coins. This group is often new collectors or collectors that simply have rose colored blinders on. This bucket could also be called "what the heck bucket" as the motivations for sending these coins in may never be understood. This first bucket is where I usually see most of the low value $2 type of coins in holders. The second bucket is for the registry phenom, this covers a wide range of coins from lowball coins, AU coins for everyman sets, and other registry collecting goals that may or may not make sense to anyone else. The third bucket is the mistake bucket, in here are the coins that either the TPG incorrectly graded for one reason or another and/or the submitter swung and missed. I also include the sentimental coins in this bucket, I get the idea behind protecting a coin that has sentimental value but as you said there are many far less expensive ways to achieve the goal of protecting a sentimental item.

I thought for sure that Covid would cause the coin hobby to slide into a slight reversal, but instead it has gone into hyper warp for just the reasons that you both noted. The disposable money supply grew exponentially from stimulus funds. Additionally lots of people used the low home interest rates to refi homes and pull large amounts of monies from the equity in those homes. That money was funneled into many areas but much of it was used for discretionary spending like hobbies, RV's, and other large ticket items. @Mr.Bill347 Actually the 09-SVDB has been falling of late, not that long ago I could have sold my MS64RB for $2600 or more, that has dropped to more like $2200 currently. Morgan and Peace dollars are the hot tickets right now, and it seriously has me thinking of sending my Morgan dollars to auction. But back to the issue, where does the market go from here? Can it continue this rapid rise with the for sure coming hyper inflation, will it find a top soon or just keep on trucking. I wish my crystal ball was more accurate on these things. My concern is that if it keeps rising as it has over the past year I will be forced to the side at least until it peaks out and descends back down.

Well your photos from the op are missing so I cannot give any opinion on if you do or do not have a DDO, although the odds are against it. As to your question you have to determine the value of the coin yourself and enter it on the submission form. This determines the grading tier and the shipping insurance that NGC will charge when it is returned to you. If you are 100% sure that you have a valuable coin then use the earlybird tier (up to $3,000 in value). As you are claiming this to be a DDO have you checked to see if NGC will authenticate the DDO you believe you have? There are many minor DDO/DDR and varieties that NGC does not authenticate. As far as I can tell NGC does not list any 1958 proof coins in the list of variety proof coins that they will authenticate. Here is a link to the Lincoln cent proof varieties that are attributed. List of approved proof varieties

I need to reimage this coin still not happy with these.

You have an AU coin that may have been cleaned, it is not ever going to be worth submitting

Very nice, congrats on the addition.

Your close up of the eyelid does seem to show a line indicating a doubled eyelid. All the markers look correct so I would say you have indeed found the FS-102, congrats.

1) At the end of the day I would keep the coin that talks to me the most, however for some collectors there are other factors in play than just the coin itself. 2) Depends on the reason for having it regraded, if the goal is to sell then knowing the current market prices for each brand of plastic is a valid concern and reason for attempting a crossover. However you also have to be very good at grading in order to have a better than 50% chance of a cross at grade, after all there may be a reason the coin is not already in the plastic of the big two. If you are unsuccessful in an attempt to crossover to another plastic brand then you have just thrown away money that cannot be recouped. If the goal is to keep it I would not bother with any crossover unless there is another very compelling reason that you would need a different brand of plastic.

I don't know if other collectors give this much thought, perhaps it is a concern for aging collectors more so than younger collectors. But I often wonder when will the constant back and forth buying that happens between the dealer middle men drive the prices so far up that average collectors are left by the wayside. After all each time a coin trades hands from dealer A to dealer B, then from dealer B to dealer C, and then back to the beginning from dealer C to dealer A the price has to be marked up a bit on each of those transactions. This thought occurred to me after reading stories from other collectors who describe the actions on dealer day; and from my own experiences at coins shows both local and larger shows. I cannot recall a time at any show I have attended that I have not witnessed this almost constant back and forth between the dealers. I even setup as a local show once and saw first hand this action between the dealers. So the question I am always left with is at what point am I going to be priced out because all the meat that was on the bone has been picked clean because all the middlemen transactions which push the prices higher and higher until the golden goose is plucked. Maybe I'm just getting old.

Very nice 1891-CC VAM3 Aceskings.

My personal preference is the second one as it has better contrast and I am guessing it shows the color more accurately. However the second set could be improved, while very good the focus could be slightly better (albeit that may be as good as an iPhone can do), and it might be improved with slight diffusing to reduce the hot and cold spots. Which set shows the coin more like it appears in hand?

My 7070 album coin.

I see no way that this could be any form of a strike thru or die chips, from the photos it is just a quarter that was damaged after it left the mint.

Can you post a close up of the eye, it does indeed look to be DDO-002.