Just Bob

The Adams Lumber Company was incorporated in 1896 and operated a mill that the Adams brothers had built in 1892, located two miles south of Morton, Mississippi in Scott County. The mill remained in operation until 1904.
This 5 cent token is unlisted. The only other known denomination is a $1.00 token.
 

( I started typing this reply when there were only three responses to the OP, but got sidetracked. Much of what I wanted to say has already been said by other posters, but I am going to post it any way.)
The tone of your post sounds like you are blaming NGC for not finding errors on coins that have no errors.  To begin with, re-punched mint marks and doubled dies are not actually mint errors. They are die varieties, and should be submitted as such. If your coins were submitted as errors, then they were sent to an error specialist who looks for things like planchet flaws, broadstrikes, struck-through errors, etc. They should have been submitted for variety attribution after first consulting NGC's Variety Plus, which lists the varieties that they recognize.
Secondly, if you are a seasoned veteran with many years of experience collecting coins and searching and finding error coins, then please disregard the following assumptions:
Most of the questions that we get from newcomers regarding what they think are valuable error coins are about coins that are either damaged, or have worthless strike doubling. You didn't say whether you had purchased the coins you sent in, or found them in circulation, but, the chances of finding 30 coins in circulation that are all genuine errors, or even varieties, are very slim. Is it possible that the doubling that you see on your coins is not, in fact, hub doubling, but is actually strike doubling? If this is the case, then this is not something that NGC or any other third-party grader recognizes as an actual error or variety. It's really just poor quality control on the part of the mint, and is considered by most collectors to be a form of damage. (Again, if this does not apply to you, please accept my apologies.)
Thirdly, your advice to not send in for attribution coins that have minor doubling not visible to the naked eye is excellent advice. I hope more people will follow it.

1951 Commemorative 5 cent coin depicting a nickel refinery
Canada's first commemorative 5 cent and the last business strike struck in 100% nickel
 

( I started typing this reply when there were only three responses to the OP, but got sidetracked. Much of what I wanted to say has already been said by other posters, but I am going to post it any way.)
The tone of your post sounds like you are blaming NGC for not finding errors on coins that have no errors.  To begin with, re-punched mint marks and doubled dies are not actually mint errors. They are die varieties, and should be submitted as such. If your coins were submitted as errors, then they were sent to an error specialist who looks for things like planchet flaws, broadstrikes, struck-through errors, etc. They should have been submitted for variety attribution after first consulting NGC's Variety Plus, which lists the varieties that they recognize.
Secondly, if you are a seasoned veteran with many years of experience collecting coins and searching and finding error coins, then please disregard the following assumptions:
Most of the questions that we get from newcomers regarding what they think are valuable error coins are about coins that are either damaged, or have worthless strike doubling. You didn't say whether you had purchased the coins you sent in, or found them in circulation, but, the chances of finding 30 coins in circulation that are all genuine errors, or even varieties, are very slim. Is it possible that the doubling that you see on your coins is not, in fact, hub doubling, but is actually strike doubling? If this is the case, then this is not something that NGC or any other third-party grader recognizes as an actual error or variety. It's really just poor quality control on the part of the mint, and is considered by most collectors to be a form of damage. (Again, if this does not apply to you, please accept my apologies.)
Thirdly, your advice to not send in for attribution coins that have minor doubling not visible to the naked eye is excellent advice. I hope more people will follow it.

( I started typing this reply when there were only three responses to the OP, but got sidetracked. Much of what I wanted to say has already been said by other posters, but I am going to post it any way.)
The tone of your post sounds like you are blaming NGC for not finding errors on coins that have no errors.  To begin with, re-punched mint marks and doubled dies are not actually mint errors. They are die varieties, and should be submitted as such. If your coins were submitted as errors, then they were sent to an error specialist who looks for things like planchet flaws, broadstrikes, struck-through errors, etc. They should have been submitted for variety attribution after first consulting NGC's Variety Plus, which lists the varieties that they recognize.
Secondly, if you are a seasoned veteran with many years of experience collecting coins and searching and finding error coins, then please disregard the following assumptions:
Most of the questions that we get from newcomers regarding what they think are valuable error coins are about coins that are either damaged, or have worthless strike doubling. You didn't say whether you had purchased the coins you sent in, or found them in circulation, but, the chances of finding 30 coins in circulation that are all genuine errors, or even varieties, are very slim. Is it possible that the doubling that you see on your coins is not, in fact, hub doubling, but is actually strike doubling? If this is the case, then this is not something that NGC or any other third-party grader recognizes as an actual error or variety. It's really just poor quality control on the part of the mint, and is considered by most collectors to be a form of damage. (Again, if this does not apply to you, please accept my apologies.)
Thirdly, your advice to not send in for attribution coins that have minor doubling not visible to the naked eye is excellent advice. I hope more people will follow it.

According to CoinfinderDave's first post, his coin has no date. That is probably why he asked how to tell what the composition was.
 
To Dave: if you are using your phone to take pics and post here, try using the edit function to crop your photo. If that doesn't reduce the file size under 4.88 MB, then use the edit function to resize. If your phone does not have this capability, your app store should have a free app to edit photos. 
If using a pc or laptop, MSPaint is the perhaps easiest way to resize. I reduce most of my pictures by 50%, or more, and they are still large enough to see details without taking up the whole page.

Those are gorgeous.
Steve has quality tokens, that's for sure. His auctions often bring prices that other sellers can't get.

According to CoinfinderDave's first post, his coin has no date. That is probably why he asked how to tell what the composition was.
 
To Dave: if you are using your phone to take pics and post here, try using the edit function to crop your photo. If that doesn't reduce the file size under 4.88 MB, then use the edit function to resize. If your phone does not have this capability, your app store should have a free app to edit photos. 
If using a pc or laptop, MSPaint is the perhaps easiest way to resize. I reduce most of my pictures by 50%, or more, and they are still large enough to see details without taking up the whole page.

According to CoinfinderDave's first post, his coin has no date. That is probably why he asked how to tell what the composition was.
 
To Dave: if you are using your phone to take pics and post here, try using the edit function to crop your photo. If that doesn't reduce the file size under 4.88 MB, then use the edit function to resize. If your phone does not have this capability, your app store should have a free app to edit photos. 
If using a pc or laptop, MSPaint is the perhaps easiest way to resize. I reduce most of my pictures by 50%, or more, and they are still large enough to see details without taking up the whole page.

Here’s some Civil War Tokens I purchased recently. The first 2 are using coin images used with permission from eBay seller Steve Hayden where I inserted the pictures into my template. The PCGS one uses images from a Trueview and the others are from another seller (used with his permission) where I also inserted them into my templates.

Here we go......

If you sell at auction, I want a copy of the catalog.

To me, they are as distracting as scratches. I feel the same about planchet adjustment marks on early gold and silver coins. That doesn't mean that I would never add one to my collection. It does mean that, given a choice between coins with and without die polish lines (or planchet adjustment marks), I would choose the coin without.
Oddly, there are other things that are distracting to many collectors that don't really bother me, like fingerprints. 

The most likely explanation is that the round indention on the obverse was caused by a coin rolling machine. The fact that it is the same size as the circular design on the reverse is a happy (or unhappy) coincidence.

The most likely explanation is that the round indention on the obverse was caused by a coin rolling machine. The fact that it is the same size as the circular design on the reverse is a happy (or unhappy) coincidence.

I did a quick search of sold items on Ebay, and found that off-center broad struck cents are selling for $10-$30 on average. Blank cent planchets are going for around $3. Better pics are needed to see if that is actually a clipped planchet error (do some reading on the "Blakesley Effect.) It is hard to get a feel for what a real one might bring, because a lot of the ones listed on Ebay, including the ones that have sold, do not look like actual clipped planchet errors. Most look homemade, to me. That being said, it looks like you might could get $5-$10 or so for yours, if it is real.
(For the record, I am not implying that you made the clipped planchet. Just saying that I can't tell if it is a genuine mint error or not from just that one picture of the obverse.)

Thanks. I have been wanting to see some coins that have been confirmed by a member to have actually been found in a dryer. You can find pictures labeled as "dryer coins" all over the place, but you never know if the coins were really found in a dryer, or if they were found elsewhere and just given that label.

Thanks. I have been wanting to see some coins that have been confirmed by a member to have actually been found in a dryer. You can find pictures labeled as "dryer coins" all over the place, but you never know if the coins were really found in a dryer, or if they were found elsewhere and just given that label.

Please post pictures of those, Hog.
 

Nice pickups!

I'm sorry. I realize this has nothing to do with me, but I really don't understand. Why would you need to see this or any coin in hand to know if NGC would grade it or not? Isn't there a list of coins/tokens/medals that they do or do not encapsulate?  If you looked at a picture of a Morgan dollar, or an Ethiopian birr, or a Dix civil war token, you would be able to look on your list and say, "yep, we grade those." How is this coin any different?

EDIT TO ADD:
Since I'm cataloging it this morning, along with the above, here's another from the town of Douglas on the IoM. This token is wafer thin, it measures under 1mm at the rim.