JKK

It would seem that the experts saw something about the coin that escaped you. Most cleaning is improper, so the slight distinction there is not as big as it sounds. Since we can't see it, we can't go very far in guessing what they saw, but it might have been buffing on the surface. Could also have been dipping residue. What usually tips me off to cleaning is not scratching or residue, but color. Most rough cleaning will impart a very unnatural color to the coin, or a very unnatural surface in some other way.
A cleaned coin in a slab is still an uncirculated coin proven genuine. While your results will vary, my general outlook is that cleaning knocks the value down a grade's worth; a bad cleaning, maybe two. For example, a Merc that is blast white and brightly shiny but has G-4 details? Well, it doesn't have that far to fall, but if it were a somewhat uncommon issue, it might value like an AG-3. There are many views on this and that's just how my experience and dealer conversations have gone. I used to have a local dealer who was highly scrupulous about marking coins as cleaned. An Unc Cleaned coin tended to sell for AU money--sometimes EF money.
In one area, at least, you paid tuition to learn a valuable lesson: if the coin is an investment, buy it already slabbed. If the idea is that you will buy them raw and then improve their overall value through careful selection and certification, then it is time for you to become expert in assessing cleaning. There are several ways you could do that.

None of that is going to change anything. Also, the Wanapum are a Native American people from the mid-Columbia region of modern Washington. If you are thinking of "wampum," that's an eastern Native American term that has nothing to do with the western USA. You could Goole that.

None of that is going to change anything. Also, the Wanapum are a Native American people from the mid-Columbia region of modern Washington. If you are thinking of "wampum," that's an eastern Native American term that has nothing to do with the western USA. You could Goole that.

I forgive you. Go forth and sin some more.

What are we forgiving you for?

This thread is almost 7 years old so I don't think we'll ever see the grading results.

These days, it's not that the young people aren't interested; it's the lack of disposable income. Their cost of living relative to what they earn has many of them struggling, and it doesn't allow for much spending on stuff like collecting.
There is however a problem with attracting YNs to the hobby. I think many coin clubs and shows could do a better job of it.

GSA is a subclassification of each of these issues. If you crack one out of its holder (unlike if the grading service does it; they will preserve that classification and put it on the holder), you will subtract an indefinite amount of value from it on the spot. If you want to sell them in their holders as they are, fine; if you want formal grades, that's also fine; but taking them out yourself to sell separately, I think, would be combusting value.

GSA is a subclassification of each of these issues. If you crack one out of its holder (unlike if the grading service does it; they will preserve that classification and put it on the holder), you will subtract an indefinite amount of value from it on the spot. If you want to sell them in their holders as they are, fine; if you want formal grades, that's also fine; but taking them out yourself to sell separately, I think, would be combusting value.

Heck! That's what happens when I don't read the package label.... !

Since there is no question, I have no opinion. It's a quarter.

Since there is no question, I have no opinion. It's a quarter.

The Dolphins won't make it to the Superbowl next year.

No problem. It's refreshing to be teaching this rather than examining yet another damaged modern penny that is worth one cent. Numerically, coins grade from 0 (BA, or basal) to 70 (MS, top of the range, essentially a coin that is perfect even under exam with a 10x (right, guys?) loupe. MS starts at 60. G is 4-6, VG is 8-10, F (fine) is 12-15, VF (very fine, of course) is 20-35. EF begins at 40 and AU begins at 50. So if you assume that AU-58 is a coin that looks mint state (MS, of course) but some small amount of wear is noted that means it's not quite mint state, you'd be right. For VF (summarizing very broadly and briefly), one is looking for a good percentage of original detail, modest wear on the high points. A VF-30 or 35 would be an exceptional specimen that just falls short of EF-40; for example, a coin that is a lock for 40 but has a small edge ding (not allowed in EF).
So--and this is just my opinion, and I'm not a dealer nor a professional grader, haven't even gone to grading school--the surface of your little gold coin (and that's not a putdown; I think they are very cool and interesting) looks buffed or polished, not original, so I suspect it's been cleaned. Not sure how roughly. Detailwise, look at Ms. Liberty's hair. On your example, I see significant wear with detail loss, but it's not all gone. VF would be, according to my grading guide: beads at top of coronet partially separated (yes), LIBERTY complete (definitely), hair around face and neck noticeably worn but well outlined (seems to be), some star centers show details (I think I see details in two, that's 'some'); light even wear on legend and date (question is how light; let's say okay), only traces of leaf ribs are visible (exceeds this standard), bow knot is flat on high point (definitely).
So we have only one criterion where it's questionable at all, and minimally so. VF-20 cleaned seems reasonable. On close examination of the photos, I think F-15 would be too harsh, and that VF-30 would be pushing it (you'd need better hair strands and coronet bead separation). But that's part of how these grades are derived, with all the customary caveats about the unreliability of grading from a photo taken behind a flip's mylar, etc.

Yeah JKK you described the grades that a guy fairly new to coin collecting could understand. I didn’t realize there was so many different grades. I appreciate all your insight. 

I want to say thank you @JKK.  You are so helpful to us new collectors.  I know that I have read all of that in one of my books on cents, but unlike others people I don't always recall things.I don't collect gold coins so I know very little about them.

No problem. It's refreshing to be teaching this rather than examining yet another damaged modern penny that is worth one cent. Numerically, coins grade from 0 (BA, or basal) to 70 (MS, top of the range, essentially a coin that is perfect even under exam with a 10x (right, guys?) loupe. MS starts at 60. G is 4-6, VG is 8-10, F (fine) is 12-15, VF (very fine, of course) is 20-35. EF begins at 40 and AU begins at 50. So if you assume that AU-58 is a coin that looks mint state (MS, of course) but some small amount of wear is noted that means it's not quite mint state, you'd be right. For VF (summarizing very broadly and briefly), one is looking for a good percentage of original detail, modest wear on the high points. A VF-30 or 35 would be an exceptional specimen that just falls short of EF-40; for example, a coin that is a lock for 40 but has a small edge ding (not allowed in EF).
So--and this is just my opinion, and I'm not a dealer nor a professional grader, haven't even gone to grading school--the surface of your little gold coin (and that's not a putdown; I think they are very cool and interesting) looks buffed or polished, not original, so I suspect it's been cleaned. Not sure how roughly. Detailwise, look at Ms. Liberty's hair. On your example, I see significant wear with detail loss, but it's not all gone. VF would be, according to my grading guide: beads at top of coronet partially separated (yes), LIBERTY complete (definitely), hair around face and neck noticeably worn but well outlined (seems to be), some star centers show details (I think I see details in two, that's 'some'); light even wear on legend and date (question is how light; let's say okay), only traces of leaf ribs are visible (exceeds this standard), bow knot is flat on high point (definitely).
So we have only one criterion where it's questionable at all, and minimally so. VF-20 cleaned seems reasonable. On close examination of the photos, I think F-15 would be too harsh, and that VF-30 would be pushing it (you'd need better hair strands and coronet bead separation). But that's part of how these grades are derived, with all the customary caveats about the unreliability of grading from a photo taken behind a flip's mylar, etc.

There is an area between "worth mostly metal value" and "worth having graded"--let's call it "worth protecting with at least a flip"--and it is quite possible that most of your best examples will fall into this category. You might want to handle these with clean cloth gloves (some dealers use throwaway linen gloves) or little rubber fingertips that I call leprechaun condoms. They sell by the bag. If you did happen to have a really nice high uncirculated coin, and you thumbed it while arranging it for photography, it might lose a couple of grade notches. With most coins, the higher the grade, the disproportionately more the value jumps. So if it's worth $10 at 63, $20 at 64, $40 at 65, and $145 at 66, and it was a 66 before it got an indelible thumbprint in handling, now it might be a 63 and careless handling made $135 evaporate.
No one can fully tell whether any of those Mercs have full split bands; too many crammed into one pic and too small. Plus they're not oriented correctly, which some people won't even bother looking at.

Normally it would be important to get them right side up, but in this case it's not germane because at any alignment they depict a Zincoln that has lost some copper plating and is badly corroded. Not certain the date can be determined but quite certain that the date doesn't matter.

Good luck with it. Of course, if you posted the reverse, you could get some reasonable FBL opinions. The obverse presented needs to be cropped and blown up a lot, but the coin looks attractive enough to have potential to get a nice grade. But yep, forging ahead is how we learn.

I don't think that's a doubled die, just mechanical doubling. Can't give an opinion on the FBL, since we don't get a usable picture of the reverse. Assuming (no offense, just being candid) that if you don't recognize mechanical doubling, you probably are not a highly experienced FBL judge, if it were me I'd look up what the value of an MS-63 1960 Frank is (in my recent magazine, $18, meaning retail probably $13), and ask myself if I could live with that outcome from the grading service.
If you can, and you still want to send it in just to see if this is an FBL and/or might get 64-65 or even better (no way for us to guess yet), then send it in. If it doesn't get what you want, consider it tuition. (This is not very expensive tuition. Expensive tuition is paying $2K for a fake S-VDB penny then finding out it's counterfeit.)

A 1955 penny without mint mark is from the Philadelphia Mint. This is why I hate it when coin catalogs and dealer labels refer to coins without mint marks as "-P"; it confuses the issue, making life harder for new collectors. Had they used a P mint mark in 1955, your coin would have one. So, by my logic, there is no such thing as a roll of 1955-P pennies--just a roll of 1955 pennies. With very few previous exceptions, they didn't start using a P mint mark until, what was it, the late 1970s or early 1980s?
Nice obverse, by the way. Unlikely to be worth much, but appealing.
The big enchilada for 1955 is the double die. This isn't one. Another poster did just post what looks like it might be an authentic one, in case you'd like to see what to look for. If you find one in that roll, please be sure not to inflict a multi-hundred-dollar thumbprint on it.

Think of it this way... if you we're sent to court over something you didnt do; whose to say the judge rules not in my favor? First time being in front of a judge and you get the short end of the stick. Though you didn't do it, judge rules in others favor. Is that fair?. Coins may be different, but still the same. Say you know you have an ms67 and judge says it's just fine. Is that fair? Even though your coin is prefect? A judge can always be wrong no matter what the situation is; correct? 

The first is rather clean and the fields look quite original. Very attractive. Grading for MS Morgans goes by a number of criteria, but one key component is disfiguring dings and where they are (prime focal vs. secondary focal). I like the look of that one and suspect it could get 64. The second has some toning going on that has stuck in the protected areas (right along the edges of devices). On a coin with residual mint luster, that's usually where the good stuff is found, not the bad stuff, so I wonder if that one were buff-cleaned at some point. Not sure, but I don't see evidence of wear, so I'd guess MS cleaned.

Consulting a recent price guide (Coin World mag) that is usually about 30% high, I get $55 for the first one if it deserves 64, $35 for the second if it deserves 60 cleaned. Melt is what, $13-14? Assuming the price guide is high, the first one might be worth about $35-40, the second maybe $20-25. The fact is that neither appears circulated, at least to me, and that does give them some advantage over the normal basic $15-20 that applies to nearly any Morgan unless it's so abused even a raven wouldn't want it.

I have a delightful term for those who channel Elon Musk. We can call them "Muskrats."

You must be the best in the world,and you should get Nobel price.itcan be difficult to take coin pictures for online purposes because no camera can capture the true luster, details and overall beauty of a brilliant coin.Such a equipment exist for few not for many.Do you know who said this?