JKK

You must be a lot of fun at parties. Most of the coins in my collection came from Halloween handouts, the soda shop, street finds, or trades. Remember when people used to stick baseball cards in their bike spokes? Coin collecting feels a lot like horse racing—newcomers try to learn the ropes, only to encounter seasoned experts with sharp criticisms. Fast forward to 2024, and people are puzzled over why horse racing is losing popularity. It's like high school all over again. My bad for posting.

No, none are.
To 509? From Spokane or Tri-Cities or Crackima?

Replated. Common school chemistry experiment. Value is one cent.

No and no. As a brutally abused combination vise and parking lot job, it is worth its Cu value and no more. Sending it in for grading would be lunacy.

Retail could be anywhere between about $150 and maybe $250, just guessing. Dealer probably pays half of one of those figures or one in between. A lot depends on whether the flattening is strike weakness or wear.

That's a nice one, with what seem like planchet defects not related to PMD. Interesting color and toning, pretty flow lines, not sure it's even circulated as the flat spots on the high points might well be strike weakness. It might get MS-62 or so if the grading people think the way I'm thinking; if not, probably AU-55. Much nicer than mine, which is EF scratched and quite clearly circulated.

No and no. As a brutally abused combination vise and parking lot job, it is worth its Cu value and no more. Sending it in for grading would be lunacy.

No and no. As a brutally abused combination vise and parking lot job, it is worth its Cu value and no more. Sending it in for grading would be lunacy.

First, you will do yourself a great service by assuming PMD in all cases of odd appearance, making the coins essentially innocent until proven guilty by conclusive evidence. That's the opposite of what most new arrivals do, driven by bouts of pariedolia. Your introduction shows that you do not want to be those people, which is good. You'll learn more and be less embarrassed, and it'll be obvious to regulars that you're worth helping.
Second: most important thing you can do is learn how minting happens, starting from the ingredients that make up hubs then dies, and that go into creating planchets. It matters a great deal that minting technologies and metal choices have changed in our lifetimes, and this has affected the error potential. This matters hugely because if you follow what I said above, and look at every coin with skepticism, you'll ask yourself how could this possibly have occurred at the mint? If you know how minting happened in that coin's timeframe, you will be equipped to make a reasonable assessment (which most of the time will be "it couldn't; moving on").
You can't know if they did it wrong until you understand what doing it right looked like.

First, you will do yourself a great service by assuming PMD in all cases of odd appearance, making the coins essentially innocent until proven guilty by conclusive evidence. That's the opposite of what most new arrivals do, driven by bouts of pariedolia. Your introduction shows that you do not want to be those people, which is good. You'll learn more and be less embarrassed, and it'll be obvious to regulars that you're worth helping.
Second: most important thing you can do is learn how minting happens, starting from the ingredients that make up hubs then dies, and that go into creating planchets. It matters a great deal that minting technologies and metal choices have changed in our lifetimes, and this has affected the error potential. This matters hugely because if you follow what I said above, and look at every coin with skepticism, you'll ask yourself how could this possibly have occurred at the mint? If you know how minting happened in that coin's timeframe, you will be equipped to make a reasonable assessment (which most of the time will be "it couldn't; moving on").
You can't know if they did it wrong until you understand what doing it right looked like.

Not sure I'd put my address and the amount of estimated tax I paid at some point out there on a public forum.

Nope. That looks like some form of mechanical doubling, probably die deterioration. The shelfy look is a dead giveaway.

Nope. That looks like some form of mechanical doubling, probably die deterioration. The shelfy look is a dead giveaway.

I would suggest you contact your local coin club. Just show up to a meeting and ask around. There is an excellent chance someone will offer to help you for a reasonable fee, and they wouldn't want to besmirch themselves or their club by doing you wrong.

Everyone has different collecting preferences. There's no fundamentally wrong way to collect. If for example you wanted to see if you could amass the world's largest collection of 1964 US nickels, every last one of them worth exactly 5c, that'd be up to you. I wouldn't understand it, but I don't need to. Only you do. However, some people will keep warning you that what you're collecting isn't worth much and never will be, and you should understand this habit of warning, because we have so many new collectors who come here thinking purely of the profit motive. We forum regulars become conditioned to assumptions which might or might not be justified in each person's case. Imagine how it looks to us, with a steady parade of people confidently braying that they have Rare Mint Errors, and us having to give bad news nearly every time. We get into a rut. Those among us who are intellectually honest will admit that.
There are two basic motives in coin collecting: interest and profit. Sometimes a collector follows a combination of the two.
With modern US coins, it's like this. If you collect them because you like them, and you expect minimal profit, then you won't be disappointed because they're cheap and easy to find. If you expect profit from them, you will almost surely be disappointed because they are common enough that demand is not high. You would expect that from how cheap they are. Demand drives pricing. That's why older US coins can be so spendy--demand is high, for example, for bust half dollars and seated half dimes. This is one reason I grew fairly bored with US coins of any age, and turned to ancients as well as coins from the rest of the world. (I love those huge 5 kopek pieces from around 1800. Oni ochen prekrasnii.)
With non-US coins from the modern era, there is far less demand overall. I don't think coin collecting is as popular in some other countries, and for a good percentage of the world coin collecting would be a hobby for the few who could afford such a frivolity. I am sure there are collectors in Bangladesh, but per capita I suspect there are fewer than here. One reason I like modern era world coins is that they're relatively inexpensive for the interest level they offer me (well, that, and I read enough writing systems to have a natural advantage). But I'm never expecting that my world coins will someday be worth large amounts of money. Neither will most of my ancients, so my own goal is not so much profit as to avoid overspending while mostly enjoying the fact that they fill albums of history.
Collect what you want. Not everyone will understand it. On slabs/professional grading, if your goal is eventual profit, you're really throwing money away because you are never going to make back the cost of grading. If you are doing it because you like them, and you would literally rather spend $40-60 on plastic than on the coins you could buy for that $40-60, that's your choice. I also will not understand it, but you don't need anyone's permission to collect what you want the way you want.
I would point out that nearly any modern coin you elect to clean, you will likely harm irreparably, but the good part there is that they probably weren't worth much so at least you didn't lose much money. I have cleaned some world coins that I literally could not identify as they were, because there was nothing to lose. Ancients often come in huge coin clods (someone buried the bag in antiquity and didn't come back for it) that have to be soaked and cleaned just to get them apart safely and to see what they are. That's a sort of cleaning I do understand.
 

Thank you for your opinion and recently received a offer of 10k for the coin 🤯

Everyone has different collecting preferences. There's no fundamentally wrong way to collect. If for example you wanted to see if you could amass the world's largest collection of 1964 US nickels, every last one of them worth exactly 5c, that'd be up to you. I wouldn't understand it, but I don't need to. Only you do. However, some people will keep warning you that what you're collecting isn't worth much and never will be, and you should understand this habit of warning, because we have so many new collectors who come here thinking purely of the profit motive. We forum regulars become conditioned to assumptions which might or might not be justified in each person's case. Imagine how it looks to us, with a steady parade of people confidently braying that they have Rare Mint Errors, and us having to give bad news nearly every time. We get into a rut. Those among us who are intellectually honest will admit that.
There are two basic motives in coin collecting: interest and profit. Sometimes a collector follows a combination of the two.
With modern US coins, it's like this. If you collect them because you like them, and you expect minimal profit, then you won't be disappointed because they're cheap and easy to find. If you expect profit from them, you will almost surely be disappointed because they are common enough that demand is not high. You would expect that from how cheap they are. Demand drives pricing. That's why older US coins can be so spendy--demand is high, for example, for bust half dollars and seated half dimes. This is one reason I grew fairly bored with US coins of any age, and turned to ancients as well as coins from the rest of the world. (I love those huge 5 kopek pieces from around 1800. Oni ochen prekrasnii.)
With non-US coins from the modern era, there is far less demand overall. I don't think coin collecting is as popular in some other countries, and for a good percentage of the world coin collecting would be a hobby for the few who could afford such a frivolity. I am sure there are collectors in Bangladesh, but per capita I suspect there are fewer than here. One reason I like modern era world coins is that they're relatively inexpensive for the interest level they offer me (well, that, and I read enough writing systems to have a natural advantage). But I'm never expecting that my world coins will someday be worth large amounts of money. Neither will most of my ancients, so my own goal is not so much profit as to avoid overspending while mostly enjoying the fact that they fill albums of history.
Collect what you want. Not everyone will understand it. On slabs/professional grading, if your goal is eventual profit, you're really throwing money away because you are never going to make back the cost of grading. If you are doing it because you like them, and you would literally rather spend $40-60 on plastic than on the coins you could buy for that $40-60, that's your choice. I also will not understand it, but you don't need anyone's permission to collect what you want the way you want.
I would point out that nearly any modern coin you elect to clean, you will likely harm irreparably, but the good part there is that they probably weren't worth much so at least you didn't lose much money. I have cleaned some world coins that I literally could not identify as they were, because there was nothing to lose. Ancients often come in huge coin clods (someone buried the bag in antiquity and didn't come back for it) that have to be soaked and cleaned just to get them apart safely and to see what they are. That's a sort of cleaning I do understand.
 

Don't clean your coins.
If you have any questions about that, don't clean your coins.
While you are thinking about and evaluating them, don't clean your coins.
Hope that's helpful.

You might have a hard time finding that sweet spot. I don't know what they cost, and in fact I don't even know much about how they work, but I think mostly dealers have them. This would indicate that ones worth having are major capital investments they expect to recoup in avoidance of buying phonies, assay capacity, and so on. Most collectors have basic scales and many have calipers and microscopes (and yes, they do have value provided they are not used for foolish purposes), but I think very very few have metal analysis equipment.

No, you don't. You can sell them to whoever wants to buy them (this one would bring 25c). Certification matters mainly to people who prefer it, primarily those who collect coins that are commonly counterfeited or altered, or to certify that a given variety or error is present.
Before someone spends $40-60 to have a coin certified, one should consider whether it's even worth 10% of that amount. In most cases it is not. I get that, for new collectors, having coins graded and slabbed feels like "doing it right." It isn't, at least not automatically. One should ask oneself just how much really cool stuff one could get for $40-60, and that'll usually answer the question.

No, you don't. You can sell them to whoever wants to buy them (this one would bring 25c). Certification matters mainly to people who prefer it, primarily those who collect coins that are commonly counterfeited or altered, or to certify that a given variety or error is present.
Before someone spends $40-60 to have a coin certified, one should consider whether it's even worth 10% of that amount. In most cases it is not. I get that, for new collectors, having coins graded and slabbed feels like "doing it right." It isn't, at least not automatically. One should ask oneself just how much really cool stuff one could get for $40-60, and that'll usually answer the question.

Start by assuming they are all circulation marks. That is the automatic presumption and the challenge, the burden is to prove that such a mark somehow happened at a mint.
To use a judicial analogy, assume that the prosecution has video conclusively identifying the accused in the act of committing the crime, and that your task is to prove the accused innocent. That's how skewed it is. If you do that, you will be looking at this sensibly and will not be starting out with false hope, but with healthy skepticism. That's the best help I can offer you.

I always wonder at the audacity of this. In what universe do people imagine that it makes sense to post such a question without images that show what they're talking about? I have no problem with the fundamental question, just beggars all reason that we should somehow be able to answer that from a simple written description.
I get that photography is difficult and irritating. I loathe doing it. That's why I never do it unless I really, really care about the answer, and always on other forums that are more germane to my interests. But if you want it explained, and you won't show us what you want explained...nothing to be said or done but shake one's head.
Guys, is it as simple as that, that photography is hard and people are trying to get out of it if possible? I mean, that's what I'd be doing myself, if I were so out of touch with reality that I imagined anyone could help me without photography. As in, if I could get away with it--which no one can, least of all me.

I did. It's for the benefit of others, and perhaps to bring about discussion of general numismatic ethics. If it was dredged once, it'll be dredged again.

I did. It's for the benefit of others, and perhaps to bring about discussion of general numismatic ethics. If it was dredged once, it'll be dredged again.